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CV bolts frozen


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heat is your friend trust me

 

I had the same problem and I just used a mini breaker bar from craftman with the shortest socket that was the right size and put it on and got it in position, and went at it with the torch for about 20-30 seconds, then gave the handle some hits and that broke them loose and it was easy after that.

 

Heat is a wonderfull thing. ;)

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Use a 6 point socket also. 12's are famous for round bolt heads.

 

X2 on that...I ruined many bolt heads before I realized it. I've only got one 12 pt socket that I use, and that's 13mm, for the 3 hub bolts. Everything else is 6 pt.

 

Jeff

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Heat em till they glow, put a 12 point combination wrench over them, hit the wrench with a sledge hammer.

 

 

If you're using quality tools that actually fit right, you won't round it. Wailing on the wrench with a sledge gives it a nice shock and tends to break things free. The heat helps. Even a propane torch can do a decent job, but propane/oxy or acetylene/oxy does a better job, and if nothing else soaking a 70** rod in water and hitting it with 140+ amps will really get it glowing fast.

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well i tried heat, cooling, 12 pt sockets.. whole nine yards...

Then I had a bright idea ;)

 

Took my 4.5 in grinder... ground the heads down, no heads, no problem.... only problem is now finding a new yoke :roll:

These bolts werent comming out in one peice.... small sacrafice.

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well i tried heat, cooling, 12 pt sockets.. whole nine yards...

Then I had a bright idea ;)

 

Took my 4.5 in grinder... ground the heads down, no heads, no problem.... only problem is now finding a new yoke :roll:

These bolts werent comming out in one peice.... small sacrafice.

 

Got any pics...I cannot visualize wht you did here???

 

CW

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mjeff... how in the WORLD do you get those stupid hub bolts off!!!! theyre torqued like crazy, and the one behind the center cap too... how?!

 

I use the 1/2" drive set I have. 13 mm 12 pt socket on an 18" breaker bar with a stubby extension....they come out like buttah :D

 

Jeff

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mjeff... how in the WORLD do you get those stupid hub bolts off!!!! theyre torqued like crazy, and the one behind the center cap too... how?!

 

 

One behind the centre cap as in the spindle nut?

 

 

 

Have fun with it. I broke two 1/2" extensions trying to get it out the way I normally would. Finially I said f' it and bought an electric impact wrench. A good one...

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Well, when I broke the extensions I was using a breaker bar with 60" of square tube slipped over it for more leverage. *Snap*

damn! Yours were on tight! Original perhaps?

Mine had been changed, the nuts were loose, explains why I had to replace bearings. New ones got torqued to spec, I hope I have an impact to get them off when the time comes.

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Nope, they'd been off about a month before to do a gear setup. Only thing I can say is I'm glad I wasn't trying to change a shaft when I discovered they were that tight.

 

 

You shouldn't need impact tools to get them off... But if they're seized or overtorqued, have fun.

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The best way to remove the 36MM is with air tools. If you don't have access to them buy a Quality 1/2 or 3/4 breaker bar. Use lots of PB blaster, or liqiud wrench. makes life much easier.

 

As for how to pull the front D/S. I had the same problem alll of you had. My solution was to use a 6pt 8MM that I had shortened. Then I took a grade8 3/8 bolt and gound it down to fit in the 1/4 inch drive and shortened it. Now I can put a long box wrench on that and give it hell. Heta will also work, but you stand a chance of messing up your front CV d/s, and ruining the front out put seal in the t-case

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