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Changing exhaust manifold - drain coolant?


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So I will be changing my leaking exhaust manifold this week and was reviewing Alldata's procedure. I says I need to drain the coolant. Is this necessary? I probably needs to be done but I would like to do it later and just get the exhaust leak fixed first.

 

thanks

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Glad I wasn't the only one questioning that. It's a 4.0l so not an issue. Any tips or or special tools that I'll need? I have the new gasket, should I use any RTV as well?

 

Thanks

 

clean surfaces, sand them down with fine grit and remove oil residue, clean bolts and studs, install.

 

if you really want to use sealant, go with copper-seal or something along those lines (spray-on). DON'T use RTV as it will just burn off and smell very funny...

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The only possible place for coolant to escape from the manifold side of the 4.0 block is from the front exhaust stud, and only if the threads on the #11 head bolt aren't sealed. That head bolt passes thru the coolant passage in the front of the head, and the hole for the exhaust stud intersects the hole for the headbolt inside the head.

 

I meant to take a picture of it when I was having my head reworked (to fix that stud, in fact) but I forgot to...

 

Jeff

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gasket remover and a razor blade will clean it up. no real need to sand it but if you'd like to then knock your socks off.

 

Yeah, but you know what, since nothing goes on the gasket I used a sanding wheel on an aircompressor. Cleans up nice and it ended up perfectly smooth. I went with the gasket remover and razor blade when I did my water pump and it ended up leaking the first time cause I didn't do a good enough job. Took the sander to it the next time and perfection.

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Wait Bob, let me re-write that so nobody makes a mistake and uses an orbital sander with 80 grit sandpaper. :roll:

I used a right angle die grinder with a 3M 2 inch surface prep disc to clean the mating surface.

Not only is it a lot cleaner but it takes a whole minute and 30 seconds compared to the half an hour with a razor blade.

Oh and your gonna need a torque wrench and your gonna need to follow the tightening sequence for the exhaust mani gasket that Alldata gives you.

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Thanks Chico.

 

I figured that I was going to use the die grinder. Did this on my CJ for the tranny pan and I agree, lot quicker than a razor blade.

 

Thanks for all the help guys. Can't wait to get this rig on the road. Need to do the manifold, change fluids and finish the floor. (non existing at the moment :brows: )

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