bobweiser

My MJ came with the plastic radiator and it did make it to 130,000. From sitting, all the cooling fins are missing now. The OEM replacements are plastic as well. I do like the metal idea :???:

The price scared me too. They are making some back up on shipping costs. I don't have an electric fan now so I'll concern myself with that later. I did see writeups using the new thermostat housing with a sensor in there. This same radiator is $120 locally and the seller does have good feedback. Weighing my options. By the way, I do need to change the radiator regardless :(

Has anyone use RadiatorClassic on Ebay to buy a new radiator? I am going to the open loop system and even with shipping, they are the cheapest. Since this truck is a DD, I will probably stick with a single core. Here is the number: Item number: 280297071988

That was my thought as well. Have fuel and spark, it should make truck go. I've haven't talked to the guy or tried to start it myself. Just going off the ebay listing.

I am looking at another Comanche, 90 with 4.0l automatic. Owner says it has spark, fuel, and turns over but will not run, not even a spit or sputter. Any ideas before I buy another aggravating project? Thanks

Brent, Good luck to you with the hopeful job opportunity. You've helped me out more than once since I joined this forum and I would think that get it done positive attitude would come out in any interview. They would be lucky to have you work for them.

Brent, Good luck to you with the hopeful job opportunity. You've helped me out more than once since I joined this forum and I would think that get it done positive attitude would come out in any interview. They would be lucky to have you work for them.

I've shot temps of the thermostat housing, all the hoses, the plastic tanks, and the back of the block where the temp sensor is (this is the highest reading). I may have two issues going on. Idling in the driveway for 10 min, the gauge goes to the read line and stops. The heater hoses are warm/hot, heat in the truck, but the radiator hoses are cold. I also never seem to get the coolant tank to get full, it's at the proper level cold. Odds are the gauge is wrong. This doesn't explain the pressure tank. Unless, the cap I replaced fixed this and I didn't let the truck run long enough for the thermostat to open and pressure to build. Regardless, I'm changing the thermostat and flushing the system to start from square one. Knowing my luck, I'll get air in the system that I won't be able to bleed off. :wall:

Thanks for all the help I've gotten so far. I am putting this into one post to try to resolve this issue. '89 Comanche 4.0l - sat for a few years, back running. Installed full gauges and new sensors After truck runs for 5-10 minutes, gauge moves up and sits right about red line (240) Doesn't boil over and I get get heat in the truck. However, coolant tank does not change levels. Bled system, no change. Installed new pressure cap, no change. Temps from a laser themometer show me anywhere from 180-220 Planning on change thermostat this week. Find it strange that it goes only to 240, so far no higher, I have heat, no boil over, but no coolant level change either. Looking for advice.

I've checked Napa, Advance, and Carquest. None of the thermostats have the hole drilled with the ball check valve. Where do I get one.

So if it doesn't get full, is this due to lack of pressure or bad thermostat? According the my newly installed used guage cluster, the truck is running at 240 yet my temp gun doesn't indicate that. I feel flow and get heat in the cab. Just trying to understand this system.

Should the coolant level change on the closed loop system once warm versus cold?

I changed the track bar and seems to taken care of the issue. Time will tell as I drive it more. I still need to change shocks and I know my rear tires have a chop to them but so far no more death wobble.

May have found the issue. My track bar is bad. I will post back if this fixes it.

Driving a over to the gas station, hit 30/35mph, truck started shaking like a tire was coming off. Retightened all lug nuts and drive home fine. Tried again today, same issue, kinda same spot. Slowed down and it was fine. Hit 45 on the way home and nothing? I have new Ujoints in the front, tires have been balanced, ball joints/tie rods seem tight, new coil spring spacers. I do have a bad shock on the passenger front, would this do it? From what I have read, death wobble is at high speeds. This truck is driving me nuts. Help.

Thanks Brent. That's my thought. I am going to borrow a good IR gun from the paper mill and double check everything. How much is a new guage? Also if I do buy a thermostat, parts store ones ok or does it need to be an OEM?

So I've done a search on thermostats and cooling issue and :eek: Sounds like one of the biggest gremlins in these trucks. Anyways, '89 MJ 4.0l, had been sitting for a few years, but back in action now. I installed the guages over idiot lights and replaced the sensors. Quick drive over to the gas station, the guage went to the red line after a few minutes. Same on the way home. Didn't boil over and my cheapy laser thermometer only showed 175 max at the plastic tank. I could grap the radiator hoses with my hands, hot and flowing. Is it still worth a new thermostat or are these guages that bad? If a thermostat, which one? Thanks guys.

Who has a reasonable to cheap seat cover for a bench seat? Do any of the universal fit ones actually fit decent? Thanks

Does it matter if the coil spring retainer bracket is missing?

Can one of you elaborate or show me pictures of which lines get capped? There are 3 lines that run from the CAD to metal tubing then back to plastic up by the firewall. Then to the transfer case? I am going to shim my CAD over since it's off and want to plug all necessary lines and clean this mess up. Thanks guys.

As stated, what size is the fill and drain plugs on a 231 transfer case?

Brent, Thanks for the info, they looked different on each end but that's probably from years of sitting. I called Carquest and they said they have a set. If not, I will check NAPA tomorrow. On the fuel supply line connection, how does the oring get mounted?

Does anyone know if the parts stores sell replacement fuel injector seals? Any other options for replacement. These are the bigger orings at the top of the injector that go into the fuel rail. Most of the places are closed today (Sunday). I did call Advance and they thought it would be a special order. I have a Napa, Auto Value, and Carquest nearby. Thanks

Thanks Chico. I figured that I was going to use the die grinder. Did this on my CJ for the tranny pan and I agree, lot quicker than a razor blade. Thanks for all the help guys. Can't wait to get this rig on the road. Need to do the manifold, change fluids and finish the floor. (non existing at the moment :brows: )

Glad I wasn't the only one questioning that. It's a 4.0l so not an issue. Any tips or or special tools that I'll need? I have the new gasket, should I use any RTV as well? Thanks