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4.0 AW4 to AX15, pilot bearing help


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Gotta problem going on my 4.0 swap and need some input. The engine I got was in front of an AW4 and I’m installing an AX15. Problem is the pilot bearing. The hole in the rear of the crank is setup for the snout on the torque converter from the auto tranny and is too large for the OD of the pilot bearing.

 

I know my AX5 had the bearing pressed into the flywheel, but the new flywheel I got for the AX15 doesn’t have a center section (there’s a lip on the end of the crank that fits inside the hole in the new flywheel).

 

Am I missing something??? Here’s a couple pics of the crank end and the new flywheel I have….any help is much appreciated. Is the flywheel not correct??

 

Jeff

 

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I used a pb77hd Bower bearing (actually it's a bushing) from car quest, but I went from a peugoat to an ax 15 in my 88. You should look at it and be sure it will or will not work.

 

If it will work you can get the cheap one (Dorman) it's like $2.

 

 

 

 

 

 

or just get the cheap one in the first place. :nuts:

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Thanks B...I picked up a steel sleeve bushing yesterday that other people have used, and it didn’t work. It has the right OD to fit in the crank, but the wrong ID (still too large to fit the input, and too small to press the stock needle bearing in). Went by the parts house and we rummaged through a bin of bushings and I got a brass one one that will work. ID is perfect, but the OD is just a tad too big to fit, so I’m gonna run by the machine shop today at lunch and have them turn about .008-.010 off. Then I’ll pop it in the freezer overnight and press it in tomorrow.

 

Jeff

 

various parts, left to right: stock needle bearing, brass bushing I’m using, steel sleeve that didn’t work (Dorman p/n 14674):

 

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Thanks JT.....it's at the machine shop now getting turned. I might want to have a spare one around, just in case....

 

One other question on which way to install it. One end is tapered, and the other end is flat, edges on both ends are beveled slightly. I'm assuming that the flat side should be facing out, yes? The inside of the hole in the crank is conical, which would match the face of the tapered end of the bushing if I were to press it the whole way into the hole (but it doesn't seem to need to be pressed in the whole way, only until the outward facing edge is flush with the face of the crank). If you look at the pic of it I took with it on the input shaft (backwards from the way I think it's supposed to go) you can see the flat edge, and on the other pic you can see the tapered end.

 

Jeff

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Stock setup is a steel sleeve in the crank with a roller bearing inside of that. 2 different pieces. As far as the bushing - tapered side in to the crank for 2 reasons. 1 - the crank doesn't have a square shouldered hole in it. 2) It makes it easier to revove - gives the grease a place to go and press when you pound in a dowel to force it out.

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