PRLJEEP Posted May 25, 2006 Share Posted May 25, 2006 Does the ford 8.8 bolt right up or do I have to make some conversions? What gear ratio do I want with that?? 3.73?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87manche Posted May 25, 2006 Share Posted May 25, 2006 a Ford 8.8 will have to have al the factory bracketry cut off, then new perches welded on. You also have to get a flange to u-joint adapter, it's a spicer part $30 I think. The pinion is also longer, so unless your lifting you MAY have to have your D-shaft shorted to avoid jamming it into the tailshaft when you flex. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pingpong Posted May 25, 2006 Share Posted May 25, 2006 All that plus it is narrower. Some ppl say they are running theirs with no spacers, but I don't see how. As mine were pretty close when I had the stock axle under it, let alone when I swapped My 8.8 in. When you go t do this swap, get the u-bolts and plates from the donor vehicle. The companion flange also likes to break, so make sure you buy a spare. Blue Torch Fab makes a hella nice diff cover. made out of 1/4 plate really takes a beating. My choice for gearing would be a 4.10 equipped axle, that was open, not the lsd one. The LSd 8.8 requires replacement of the carrier to install a lunch box locker. Also the LSd is not very useful if you do extreme trails, and if you are like me you will end up welding the spiders so you can get some traction Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted May 25, 2006 Share Posted May 25, 2006 The 8.8 is about 1-1/2 inches narrower than the MJ (and XJ) axle. With stock rims, the rear tires on a stock axle are very close to the leaf springs, so the ONLY way you can run an 8.8 is to use spacers, or to run wheels with considerably less backspacing than stock. Then if you run the same aftermarket wheels in front, they stick out too far -- so spacers are the better solution. Keep in mind, though, that decent structural-grade spacers that are strong enough to bet your life on cost about $125 each. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted May 25, 2006 Share Posted May 25, 2006 Don't you mean $125 per pair? What spacers are 125 each? As to gear ratio, Dana 30s with the 3.73 gear ratios can be hard to find, while 4.10s are common. Jeep on! --Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pingpong Posted May 26, 2006 Share Posted May 26, 2006 I have been running spidertrax spacers for 2 yrs with no issues at all. Just make sure you use lock-titie and torque them to spec. A lil advice to those doing this swap, weld your tubes to your housing. If you don't have the tools or the skills pay some one to do it. Also carry spare companion flanges and bolts. The bolts are metric equivalent of grade 8, and can get rock rashed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted May 26, 2006 Share Posted May 26, 2006 After screwing around in the junkyard trying to remove the stock flange bolts, I intend to track down hex-head replacements if I can. The stock bolts are designed to come off with a 12-point socket or wrench and it takes very little damage to make it impossible to get a wrench on them. :mad: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pingpong Posted May 26, 2006 Share Posted May 26, 2006 After screwing around in the junkyard trying to remove the stock flange bolts, I intend to track down hex-head replacements if I can. The stock bolts are designed to come off with a 12-point socket or wrench and it takes very little damage to make it impossible to get a wrench on them. :mad: You are absolutely right :brows: Butr keep them as the metric equivalent, cause they are auctually a touch stronger then regular grade 8. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Regger Posted May 28, 2006 Share Posted May 28, 2006 A lil advice to those doing this swap, weld your tubes to your housing. If you don't have the tools or the skills pay some one to do it. Why is that?... I've never heard of these tubes spinning in the housing.. Has that been a problem?... Also carry spare companion flanges and bolts. The bolts are metric equivalent of grade 8, and can get rock rashed. Companion Flange?.. What exactly is that?.. Thanks, Ryan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted May 28, 2006 Share Posted May 28, 2006 The tubes spin in the housing as the $#!&ty plug welds (they aren't welds actually) go pop and the tube spins. The companion flange is his fancy name for the adapter on the exle end of the driveshaft that bolts to the round flange on the pinon. I'd show ya a pic if you really care... (Oh, and those 12-pointers are a bish. I didn't know the thread pitch on them so I had to buy replacment 12-points from the stealer. Cost me about $10! And I've still got 12 points. I'll deal with it sometime.) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Regger Posted May 29, 2006 Share Posted May 29, 2006 The tubes spin in the housing as the $#!+ plug welds (they aren't welds actually) go pop and the tube spins. Weird, I've never heard of anyone spinning the tubes in these axles.. And everyone and their dog are running these axles as an upgrade.... My buddy even ran that behind a done-up 350 in his S-10 Pickup... And yes welding would be a b*@$£.. You need to pre and post heat and then weld with a high-nickel rod... PITA.. I think I'll run it like it is.. Its just going in the girlfriends jimmy in place of the D35 thats in the back now... I don't think I have to worry about spinning the tubes with the 2.8L in the thing.... The companion flange is his fancy name for the adapter on the exle end of the driveshaft that bolts to the round flange on the pinon. I'd show ya a pic if you really care... no need for pics.. I have one of those on one of the axles I have. Just didnt know the name for it... I've been calling it the u-joint flange. I just havent checked to see what u-joint fits it.. I've been told that I might have to run a bastard joint to fit my jeep driveshaft and this ford flange... (Oh, and those 12-pointers are a bish. I didn't know the thread pitch on them so I had to buy replacment 12-points from the stealer. Cost me about $10! And I've still got 12 points. I'll deal with it sometime.) I'll try and figure out the size and pitch when I unbolt the thing to go get the proper u-joint for it.. Thanks, Ryan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted May 29, 2006 Share Posted May 29, 2006 It's probably a 1360 series joint. That's what most exploders got. The tubes spinning is actually fairly common. It's really more of a suspension/weight related thing than torque I think. I've heard of plenty of cherokees doing it, not always with a 4.0. And it's not the worst thing in the world to weld. Although I didn't do my own. All you need to do is use high nickel rod and pre-heat with a propane torch, welding about 1-2" at a time. The casting won't distort as the tube slips in it a fair ways and keeps everythign centred. Apparently, that is. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pingpong Posted May 30, 2006 Share Posted May 30, 2006 I welded my own tubes, :cheers: I did pre-heat some, but the key is to space your weld out, and to weld small sections at atime on opposites side of the tubes to create a even heat. I used Hi-nickel rods, but I know of 2 ppl who used 7018 and have had zero issues Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Regger Posted May 30, 2006 Share Posted May 30, 2006 I welded my own tubes, :cheers: I did pre-heat some, but the key is to space your weld out, and to weld small sections at atime on opposites side of the tubes to create a even heat. Yes even heat is part of it, but so is getting both metals to the same temperature... that is the big key than just spacing. Spacing is just so you don't end up heat bending the tubes and bending the whole axle centerline. They are different metals, the housings is iron, the tubes are steal, and both have very different coefficients of thermal expansion. Just take a grinder to each and notice the difference in spark colour... This is one area I would not want to risk doing improperly... Because welding creates a HAZ (Heat Affected Zone) on both sides of the weld, which will/should break before the weld does. Now if its not done correctly, you;ve just made your housing a whole lot weaker... I'm not saying yours is pinpong, just a general note to everyone... I used Hi-nickel rods, but I know of 2 ppl who used 7018 and have had zero issues Yes using Hi-nickel rod is the only way to do this.. I researched this for many months and talked to many people and ticketed welders.. There was no subsitute for the nickle rod. For personal curiosity.. go take a good hard look at those welds made with the 7018 rod... I can bet there are hairline cracks in them.. I tried using 7018 on my front D44 diff, because I had to cut some of the housing back on the tubes to fit my brackets, and both welds cracked instantly. One crack was easy to see, the other wasnt. I had to use a die-penatrate to expose the crack in the weld. SO the two welds that are on my diff, are worthless... And that is where I stopped pursuing this upgrade myself.. HTH Ryan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pingpong Posted May 30, 2006 Share Posted May 30, 2006 I might have messed mine up, but I have been abusing this axle now for almost a Yr now :eek: and the only issue I had was the stock stamped diff cover giving up the ghost on the first ride :cry: I haven't checked the 2 ppl who welded there axles with 7018 cause I rarely wheel with them, but the next chance I get I will. I also do agree that preheating is important, but it is really hard to get the cast ssection (pumpkin) up to 500* without total diassembly, and a huge oven. That is why I preheated till I saw oil burning :evil: and then I welded in small 1" increments, spacing them 180* apart from each other. Then I did a cover pass after I went around the whole axle :smart: did I do it right :dunno: But I am wheeling it :banana: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted May 31, 2006 Share Posted May 31, 2006 Well, reading the only reference I have for welding (lincoln book) it is completely acceptable to weld the cast in 1-2" incremements without totally pre-heating it. I think it just wouldn't be a good idea if it's totally cold. Mine was done 'professionally' and I asked them and they said it's not a problem. They pre-heated it with a torch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cooter Posted June 3, 2006 Share Posted June 3, 2006 Correct me if I'm wrong, but doesn't the 8.8 have a cast steel center section? I know the Dana stuff is cast iron, but have heard otherwise on the 8.8... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pingpong Posted June 3, 2006 Share Posted June 3, 2006 I know it is cast, but I am not sure if it is iron or steel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted June 3, 2006 Share Posted June 3, 2006 Cast Steel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Regger Posted June 4, 2006 Share Posted June 4, 2006 Just FYI, The 12-point metric bolts for the flange are M12x1.75x25mm Long.. Grade 12.9. So now you can head to any fastener supplier and pick up a set of hex head bolts instead.. Alos, I did some measurements on that flange, and it appears to be the exact same u-joint that is on the D35. The cap diameters are the cap as well as the overall lenth of ech leg. So it doesnt look like I have to try and find a bastard u-joint to fit. I should all bolt up just fine... Thanks, Ryan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pingpong Posted June 5, 2006 Share Posted June 5, 2006 I could have told you that it uses the same 1310 u-joint as the stock jeep. They also came with a 1350 joint as well Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Regger Posted June 5, 2006 Share Posted June 5, 2006 I could have told you that it uses the same 1310 u-joint as the stock jeep. They also came with a 1350 joint as well Sorry, but DirtyComanche said it was most likely a 1360, as well a Friend said he ran a bastard joint on his setup as well.. I guess I got somewhat lucky and don't have to worry about that.. As well.... Cast Steel for the metal for the center section... I just did the grinder test last night, and its cast iron... Has a very dull coloured spark when compared to the bright yellowish spark of the steel tubes... I also double checked that against my front D44, that has the cast iron center section and cast steel knuckle "C"'s and the centers were the same spark. HTH Ryan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pingpong Posted June 5, 2006 Share Posted June 5, 2006 the 1310 u-joint is weaker then say the 1350, but it's no real big deal. Do your self a favor and buy a flange. I have seen quite a few break on the trail. I have yet to break one, but I have carried a spare flange from day one as I seen a guy break one at Tellico and it ended his day of wheeling at 9 a.m. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted June 5, 2006 Share Posted June 5, 2006 Every 8.8 that I've looked at has run a larger than 1310 joint. I even have a flange that is definatly too big for a 1310. Bloody Fords :nuts: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted June 6, 2006 Share Posted June 6, 2006 If there's one thing that Ford was always consistant with though the years, it was being inconsistant. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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