Search the Community

Hey guys, as some of you may know my oil pressure sending unit fitting broke flush with the block and this is a write up on how to get it out. Yes there are several ways to get this fitting out, such as pulling the engine, removing the engine mount etc. This is what worked for me and can be used as a reference for other 2.5l renix owners. This problem started when I swapped my cluster from the dummy lights to a full cluster. The oil pressure switch ( which turns on the dummy light if oil pressure goes down) does not work with the full cluster. I got the oil pressure sending unit and it is a direct swap, so i thought it was going to be a 20 min job at the most. As I am trying to loosen the original switch the fitting it screws into breaks flush with the block. After singing like a sailor, i started scratching my head. Attempt #1 I thought about using a 5/16 extractor bit. The bit fits into the hole but without removing the engine mount there is not enough room to be able to get a drill to spin it out. Attempt #2 I ran to Home depot with the advice of some of my fellow members and got a set of pipe nipple extrators These would have been perfect if it fit into the hole of the fitting. It would work beautifully but since a hammer doesn't fit to tap in the extractor. Attempt #3 So the next attempt was getting a small metal cutting blade and modifying it w/ an angle grinder to fit into the fitting Before cutting away at the fitting, I removed the alternator and the ac compressor Covering the blade in grease carefully cut 2 grooves into the fitting on opposite sides, either top and bottom or left and right. Once the grooves are cut get yourself a flat head screwdriver (one that is just as wide as the fitting) slide it into the grooves and carefully back it out

Hey guys I was wrenching on the jepp today and nothing good happened. The plan was to go in and remove the oil pressure light switch in favor of the oil pressure sending unit I have for the gauge to read properly. As I was trying to take the old one out *SNAP* the 90° brass fitting snapped at the block. I am trying to figure out what to do. I have tried an extractor bit but the drill doesnt fit the the space and the engine mount is in the way. I will post up pics soon

Today I went out to start the mj. It wasn't starting, just turning over. So I popped the hood and noticed white smoke coming from under the oil filter. Upon further inspection I noticed something down there glowing red hot. It was dark and rainy so I couldnt check it out any further. Does anyone have any clue what this could be?

Been having issues keeping her in first and found this on the jeepsunlimited.com (thanks to user marc1kim), thought it'd be useful to share. This info is only for the Aisin (AX5/15 5 speed manual) transmissions, not the BA-10 or AW4: *Pennzoil Syncromesh, and Royal Purple Synchromax are only recommended for the NV3550 and other NV trannys. (Not recommended for AX-5/AX-15). *Pennzoil has a GL4 lube, and Royal Purple recommends 10W40 motor oil for all 98 and newer jeep manual transmissions WITHOUT the NV trans. (Ax-5/Ax-15 fall in this category) *10W30 and (Jeeps recommended) GL-3 are roughly the same viscosity, and Gl-4 and 10W40 same viscosity as well. *All GL lubes have some kind of Sulfur content in them (needed for the High pressure Hypoid gears in rear ends, but not necessarily needed for most transmissions.) *Sulfur addadives react to brass internal parts. *GL-5 has twice the sulfur content of GL-4. *AX-5 and AX-15 are japanese manual transmissions, and the majority of manual Japanese transmission do not recommend the use of GL-5. because of the way it reacts to brass. *Red Line MTL is classified as a 70W80 gear lubricant satisfying the API Service requirements of GL-3 and GL-4. MTL also satisfies motor oil viscosities SAE 5W/10W/30, and the viscosity requirements for ATFs. *Redline MT-90 is a 75W90 GL-4 and also satisfies motor oil viscosities SAE 10W/15W/40. So it's safe to say: AX-5/AX-15 can use (synthetic?) 10W30, 10W40, GL-4, Or Redlines MT-90 or MTL and the New Venture transmissions Pennzoil Synchromesh, and Royal Purple Synchromax. Allthough I searched many website Here are some references with some good info: Good basic info and a mention of GL/ motor oil equivalents, and one mention of Japanese gear boxes. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gear_oil Viscosity chart: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/visc.html Gear Lube Definitions: http://www.finalube.com/reference_ma...tegories.h tm Redline MTL / MT-90 info and what they can substitute: http://www.roadraceengineering.com/p...-mtl-info.html And from the Amsoil website: "The difference in GL-4 and GL-5 is that GL-4 gear lubes have half the extreme pressure additives of GL-5. Because the gear types in manual transmissions do not necessitate the use of GL-5 gear lube, GL-4 is the correct recommendation called for by most OEM’s when gear lube is required." GL-4 definition: "This designation denotes lubricants intended for axles with spiral bevel gears operating under moderate to severe conditions of speed and load or axles with hypoid gears operating under moderate speeds and loads." - so GL-4 will have additives for the Hypoid Gears. And here's where it all comes home (and probably explains why Chrysler made the change): GL-3 Definition: "Gear lubricants designated for API GL-3 service are not intended for axles with hypoid gears. Some transmission and axle manufacturers specify API Category "CC" or "CD" motor oils for this service." note: "CC" and "CD" oils have been upgraded to newer designations and are equivalent to 15w40

I just purchased my first jeep an well I drove it home guy said no leaks I looked there was none to the naked eye. As soon as I pull in to car port. Low an behold a leak so I crawl under an notice it seems to be coming from where the tranny mates with the motor. Any ideas on how to fix this asap. Since I bought this Lil truck to be my work truck.

Hello, I just bought a 1986 Comanche X with a 4 cylinder and 5 speed manual. It also has the 7 foot bed. It is in pretty good shape and is mostly all stock. I think it may have the Rusty's suspension 2 inch lift kit in it, it seems slightly taller and had Rusty's shocks and steering stabilizer. I plane to keep it pretty much stock. I also have a JK Unlimited Rubicon with a ton of mods, and a Hemi Commander on Old Man Emu suspension. I bought the Comanche for lumber store runs, hauling yard stuff, and other pickup truck duties. I've drove it 3 hours to get it home from where I bought it, and it's a cool little truck. All 3 of my Jeeps are silver too, matched set. I have some questions: Where is a good place to buy stock replacement parts? The hose from the air box to the throttle body has a rip. I can make a universal hose work, but I thought I would also try to find a OEM one for the best fit and quality (maybe on the quality) I would also like new turn signal lenses. There are cracks in a few of mine and the are pretty faded. There is some other stuff I need to fix to make really nice, headliner is missing, seat has a few small rips and the foam kind of sucks, horn button is missing, and I would like to replace all the weather stripping. What oil do these little 2.5 engines like? I am guessing they are not too picky. I have not had a small American engine before. I have had many European cars from the 70's and 80's and ran Castrol 20/50 in the summer and 10/40 in the winter with good results. I found that the recommended oil is 10/30. Should I stick with that? I think I will change the engine oil tomorrow and maybe the gearbox, transfer case and diff's too. I also have to bleed the clutch and flush out the brake fluid. I am an over maintainer. I take care of a Eurocopter EC 135 Medevac Helicopter as a job, and fix, maintain and modify small airplanes and helicopters as a side business in my hangar. I have to say that this is one of the nicer forums I have looked at as far as the posts and replies. I hardly look at the Jeep JK forums due to off subject posts and constant flaming and harassment between members. I am glad I found this forum. David Chelan WA.

Do I need to buy a dedicated gasket if I'm going to be dropping the belly pan, or can I RTV it?

Hello again, a few of you recently helped me out with my '90 Cherokee. On the same vehicle( 4.0 5spd), the oil gauge doesn't read anything, though I'm almost positive the oil pump is still good. It died on a trip this winter. I tried ohming it out, and got erratic readings. Also tried using another working sender from an MJ, and I still got no gauge action. I'm curious if the sender feeder, or whatever it's called, can get plugged since it's only the size of a pinhole? Only idea I got.