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Hey guys, If it's needed: 1989 with old Renix 4.0 - stock dana 35 I am trying to do a WJ master cylinder / brake booster swap since the old one was rusted out with a leaky booster. In the process of installing it I accidentally crushed the proportioning valve when putting the lines in so I have to replace it. I have put two new proportioning valves in but it leaks from the same two each time I thought I tightened it down without pushing the line in first so I put another in and clearly that wasn't the issue. I bought an XJ proportioning valve and will not be using the front brake line (deleting the special proportioning valve toward rear). I don’t want to throw another in there and just “tighten it down” because it’s about $80.00 (part + shipping + tax) with about a week and a half to get to my house and it would do the same thing. Regarding the lines: I took the fittings off the old MJ brake lines and put them on the WJ brake lines that I pulled from the junk yard with the master cylinder and booster. I couldn't get a good flare using a tool from an auto store so I took it to a brake shop and had them flare it for me. The fitting on top toward the rear is 1/2" and the other one is 7/16", all other brake lines (bottom and on the side toward the rear) are the stock brake lines and flares. Anyway, the ones that are leaking: Top toward the rear Bottom toward the front (see picture – also has part number for new proportioning valve) They leave indents like the line isn’t sitting centered. I push the line in first and make sure it’s sitting where it should be THEN tighten the fitting but it still does it. I can’t figure it out, the flares look okay (also pictured). But again, I’m new to this so I’m kinda stuck on where to go from here. Any help would be appreciated! If it’s the flares then can someone recommend a tool that is different than the standard $15.00 one from the Auto store? That thing is too inaccurate for how accurate these flares need to be and I can’t keep bringing these lines to a brake shop because the flaring they do isn’t working either (plus I would rather not remove that bottom line to flare it and cause another issue with the fitting further on down the line. Maybe a hydraulic tool that isn’t the $300.00 one from amazon?

My clutch master cylinder was at one point leaking on to my fuse pannel. I took it apart does not look bad some corrosion not much. The question is can it be cleaned or do I need a new fuse pannel? If it can be cleaned whats the best way?

Hello fellow members. As some may know I just got my jeep running and driving, and when I brought her back from a spin around the block I saw it was dripping some fluid I freaked out for half a second thinking it was oil, I checked all the spots oil could leak from and they where all dry. I took a second look and my manual steering box is leaking. at first i thought it was from the sector shaft seal where the pitman arm connects after talking to Lee but its leaking from the front of the steering box. How could I fix this up?

I just got an MJ moving after about 5 years of not running. Had to do an AX15 upgrade and tcase output upgrade, modify my xmember, replace cps, change wheels/tires, and do an oil change. Anyway, I'd had it started a couple times in the last couple weeks, but it hadn't been ready to move under its own power until yesterday. So when I moved it, I drove it down the street, turned around, came back, and parked in a different spot. It wasn't until I got back up to the road that I noticed drip drip drip spots going back up the street to where I pulled out, and where it had been parked was a decent sized oil slick. So I go back to my truck and stick my head underneath, and the area above/around the starter is coated in oil. Seemed to have been puking from somewhere. Anybody had this issue before? Old crusty truck that hadn't run in years and it spits oil upon first drive? Note: next time I fired and moved it, it didn't seem to leak. Perhaps a rms that popped back into place after a bit? :dunno: