Search the Community

Hey everybody! Just wanted to report that I was experiencing a problem that I know others have had. The issue was my dashboard/instrument cluster lights were working, but I wasn't able to dim them. As others have noted, this can be related to a malfunctioning headlight switch. I fixed it by replacing the headlight switch. Here are the symptoms I was experiencing: - Dash/instrument lights would illuminate, but only when my headlight switch was rotated all the way to the left (counter clockwise). You know you've gone as far as you can go to the left when you hear/feel a click. - When I rotated the headlight pull knob to the right (clockwise), I would lose all dash/instrument illumination as soon as the switch clicked going in the clockwise direction. The clock would also go out. I went to the junkyard and grabbed a bunch of things, including two headlight switches. One was from a 1991 Cherokee (pictured top) and the other was from a 1988 Cherokee Laredo (pictured bottom). (I hope I'm remembering that correctly...) The switch that I ended up trying first was the bottom switch (the one that I believe came from the '88 Cherokee Laredo). I mention the one I chose for a two reasons. First, it just looked like it was in better condition, as you can see from the pictures. The ceramic wheel was not yellowing as much as the other one, and the terminals were a lot cleaner. If you have multiple switches to choose from, and don't have the know how or equipment to test them out, go with the equipment that looks better (at least that's what I say). Second, after I pulled my busted switch out, I noticed that it looked a lot closer to the top switch in the picture I have attached. Specifically, it did not have the terminal prong that I have circled in the attached picture. I took a gamble and went with the switch that had an extra prong. I figured that it probably wouldn't hurt anything, and it might give me additional functionality in the long run. If anyone knows what the extra prong is for, I'd appreciate your answer in the comments section. It's a bit of a pain to swap these out. I highly recommend removing the kickplate/lower dash. I think it would be possible to do without removing the lower dash, but you'd be working almost entirely blind. It's a whole lot easier to get out if you remove the instrument cluster as well, but I don't recommend doing that if you don't have to (especially if you've never removed the instrument cluster before). When removing the instrument cluster you have to be really careful, and it's very easy to accidentally mess up your speedometer cable. Anyway, while I was at the junkyard, I also picked up some courtesy lights for the footwells. I am so happy I have these now! They illuminate when I open the driver's side door (but not the passenger door... perhaps that's by design, but I'm thinking that I need to do some more tinkering). They also light up when I turn the headlight knob all the way to the left (counter clockwise). And I'm hoping that when I get the time to tinker with the wiring in the pillar lights, that I'll be able to get those to light up when I open the door, but that's a project for another weekend. If anyone knows why my courtesy lights might not be lighting up when I open the passenger door, I'm all ears! I'm including a video of a guy explaining how to remove it:

Ok folks, here's the problem. We've got a 1986 2wd Comanche with a rebuilt 2.5L V4 and a 5 speed manual. We have replaced just about everything you can replace on this thing and it will start (turn over and crank) but will not run. The problem seems to be electrical/fuel delivery related but we're not sure. New fuel pump, new fuel tank and everything else. With a noid light attached to the TBI connector when you go to crank the engine the light on the noid gets bright for a moment then goes dim. We were told that once the engine cranks the niod light should flash. It's doesn't. It just goes dim and we have no fuel pressure in the TBI. The ECM has been replaced along with every other electrical component associated with the fuel delivery system, when we bypass the fuel pump relay we get good fuel pressure but when we plug the relay back in - nothing. We've replaced the relay three times and still the same issue. What I need to know is if this is a wiring harness problem or a ground problem. Any additional info you might need please ask but we're not sure where to go from here. Any "actual" help would be greatly appreciated!

It has been a long time coming friends. Here is a little background on this project... I drove to Alabama from Georgia to tow this beast home after looking for a long time. Got it for $900 in working condition with some "minor" fixes necessary. I guess "minor" is somewhat subjective, but here is a list of what I got, what was wrong with it, what I've done to fix it so far and what I'm planning on doing. Keep in mind that this is still in progress. I will keep you guys updated as it comes together with tons of pictures and probably some videos. I'm big on videos... Anyway, here's the beast the day after I picked it up: And here's some more pics before some of the fixes just to give you the full scope on this guy: And here's the engine: The rust was not terrible, but obviously not ideal either. The biggest issue was basically the electrical was all messed up. It would not start half of the time, the turn signals never worked when it did start, no radio, A/C worked only half the time, and worst of all, half the time I was driving and it would just stop if it idled. This was not an engine issue though, it was all electrical. I knew this because all power would go out and if I got out of the truck and wiggled the wires around, i could eventually get it to crank. I turned to ComancheClub to help me asses the issue by uploading tons of pictures of my wiring. While this wasn't a bad idea, it still was futile just because nobody could really see the issue. Turns out that there was a bad diode in the alternator. Check out how the last owner dealt with the alternator. I guess this is an Alabama fix? :doh: So, to start, I replaced the alternator and fixed some minor wiring issues. Now the turn signals work, the A/C works, the heat works, the engine cranks every time and stays that way no matter how long it's idling. :banana: Alright, so the beast is alive now. Good progress. From here some routine stuff had to be addressed. The radiator fluid inside of the overflow was rust brown. I flushed it completely and then found out there was a huge leak in the radiator. I guess some dirt or rust was clogging the hole up before, but now it was just pouring out coolant. So...time for a new radiator. :wrench: After I got the radiator in, I went to the oil, changed the filter, put some good synthetic stuff in there. Food for the soul . :MJ 1: . So...now the beast runs like a champ with a new alternator, fixed wiring, new radiator, new coolant, fresh oil filter and clean oil. So what's next??? :) Here's my list. This will allow me to have something to reference as well as allow you guys to hound me if I'm not updating you with pics and info! -Paint Job, sand down the rust -Take out the carpet and fix the floor as I'm sure there's plenty of rust there. -I know the interior looks pretty good, but I have an itch to change the interior to some sweet black and white seats I saw on this forum a ways back. I will try to find some photos, but am not sure I'll be able to. But it looked sooo good. -Add roll bars -possibly a lift -Needs new tires desperately -Some surprise customization that I'll keep you all on the edge of your seat for :popcorn: Normally, a paint job shouldn't be the FIRST thing for a variety of reasons...but I had an opportunity that was too good to pass up to trade a guy who has a paint shop for services. I build websites, do photography, video etc. so I offered to build him a couple websites for his business if he would paint the beast. He agreed. Under 1 condition though...he will paint it textured flat black (kind of like a bedliner paint job...) At first, I wasn't crazy about this, but I actually went to visit a jeep that had this paint job...and I think it looks like a tank. Pretty freaking cool I think. But...just want to throw that out there so you guys don't think I killed my jeep when it comes back murdered out! B) I think it will look good...at least it will be a unique look. Anyway, I'll hopefully be able to update you guys next week with the paint job pics. Stay tuned

Hello all! I posted a ways back about a new comanche I was lucky enough to find. Right now there is one extremely daunting task that I am debating turning over to a mechanic, but I wanted to stop by here first to see what you guys thought, because I trust this forum way more than most of the mechanics that would be giving me quotes. For instance, I spoke with one on the phone today that stopped me and said "I already know what the problem is. You don't have to say anything more. You need an entirely new wiring harness and need to re-wire everything. Going to run you about $2,400 and anyone that says they'll do it for cheap is going to ruin your car". So, obviously I'm doing everything I can to not pay someone $2,400 because that sounds insanely ridiculous, but my issue is that if I dive into this wiring situation alone, I'm afraid my Comanche may not be able to be revived. There are far too many wires in this car and not that much information on the process from beginning to end. So! Below are lots of pictures of my current wiring set up as well as a detailed description of the problems I'm experiencing. I will be as thorough as possible in hopes someone can guide me in the right direction. I'm not opposed to fixing it, as long as there is something i can reference. But if you guys think this kind of situation is better in the hands of a professional, I'm willing to turn this one job over to a mechanic, but would prefer to know what it is that needs to be fixed so I don't have people telling me it's going to be $2,400... List of problems: -Crossed wires cause the car to not start or turn off every once in a while. After messing with the wires, it will restart. This seems to be occurring around the main positive/negative battery wires. -No turn signals. They worked once, haven't worked since. -A/C turns on half the time, half the time it doesn't -Horn works 25% of the time, 75% it does not work -Windshield wipers are on and off, but seem to be working more consistently now -Some kind of wire crossing caused my last battery to drain extremely quickly -oil gauge does not work Annnd I think that's mostly it. A lot of on and off stuff. Just want to get everything consistently working. Any thoughts on best solutions are welcome, cheapest options exceptionally welcome! https://imageshack.com/i/ip089f27j https://imageshack.com/i/f0e06cb5j https://imageshack.com/i/hla6bc5dj https://imageshack.com/i/p5e193b2j https://imageshack.com/i/ez529218j https://imageshack.com/i/p446cd16j https://imageshack.com/i/km221dbdj https://imageshack.com/i/f0ceea38j