Jump to content

Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'control arms'.

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


Forums

  • Comanche Club Forums
    • Comanche of the Month (MJOTM)
    • The Pub
    • MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
    • Cruiser54's Renix MJ and XJ tips
    • MJ Hardcore Tech: Epic Journeys to Greatness
    • the Street Comanches
    • MJ Tech: DIY Projects and Write-Ups
    • Member Projects: Your Comanches
    • Member Projects: Other Cool Stuff
    • Comanche Registry
    • Adventure Planning / Regional Groups
    • Classifieds
    • Forum Issues, Ideas, Testing

Find results in...

Find results that contain...


Date Created

  • Start

    End


Last Updated

  • Start

    End


Filter by number of...

Joined

  • Start

    End


Group


AIM


MSN


Website URL


ICQ


Yahoo


Jabber


Skype


Location


Interests

Found 5 results

  1. I'm in the middle of doing my lift and I've come to find out the WJ control arms I wanted to use aren't going to work for me. I'm looking at the set of Core 4x4 adjustable tier one arms on Amazon. Does anyone have any experience with these. As an added bonus, they come painted in multiple colors which is nice. I appreciate any help you can give. Thanks.
  2. Took my MJ for a drive tonight... And it definitely needs some caster adjustment. It has a set of what I seem to recall are 2.5" RE lift springs in it, but they sit way high, I measured them at about 4" in my XJ. I've been looking all over the interweb and finding conflicting reports. Are the RE3705 fixed length lower control arms longer than the stock ones? Some places are claiming they're the same, others are saying they're 16", which is about bang on for what I need. I would just shim the LCA pockets but I will break the studs off the forks, and I can't get them any faster than I can get RE stuff. Also, my CA bushings are all pretty trashed, if I replace the lower arms I'm at least half way there... If I have no definite answer by tomorrow AM I will just order the adjustable ones (RE3720).
  3. So, the time has come to make a decision to run CAD brackets or not. Has anyone here had a GOOD and RECENT experience with RRO? AS they are the only company that makes the most complete CAD bracket for our MJ's. I want the better ride that they offer for the price. But, I do not want to end up being one of RRO's very unsatisfied customers that wants to go "GTA" on their butts because they failed. In a way, I kind of want to wait till after I swap in my WJ 30 and my set of adj. LCA's and see how that goes. On the other hand, I do not like doing things twice. Yes, I know that if I go long arms at some point after it would kind of be along the same lines. I know that, ultimately, it is my decision. But, if I get enough positive reinforcement that I will most likely order the RRO MJ CAD brackets. Thank you for your time. Side note: Anyone here running an MJ Longbed AX-15/NP242 (non-SYE) with an F8.8+ flange adapter. What length is your rear drive shaft?
  4. I need some input from those who have swapped the WJ UCA and LCA into their MJ...specifically - was there a particular year (of WJ control arms) that you chose to use? I know the 99 through 04 arms are the same, but want to make sure. Thanks
  5. After I successfully replaced the RMS, oil pan gasket and starter, the Jeep developed a horrible shake anywhere from 45MPH+. We took it to the shop and all they suggested was a Steering dampener and and alignment. Knowing that wouldn't solve it, I looked into the track bar and found that they TRE had play in it. Thinking that was the cause I ordered a Moog Problem solver stock replacement from Rock Auto and replaced it. Well, that didn't fix the problem. I rotated the tires thinking one of the front would be unbalanced. It helped a little but didn't solve the problem. Now I can feel the steering go back and forth while I hold the wheel straight and true. Things I have done: -New track bar. -Looked over all the tres and from what I can tell they are all fine. -Aired the tires to 34 psi and rotated them from to back. -Ball joints are good. No movement when the tires are grabbed at 12 and 6. Now folks, could bad control arm bushings be the cause of this? When I dropped the oil pan, I had to remove the two Uppers in order to let the axle drop far enough to lower the pan. When I tightened the two uppers, I'm fairly sure the Jeep was still on stands meaning the bushings had to fight the force of the Jeep going to ride height. And on the flip side, the lower bushings had to fight the weight of the axle dropping farther then normal droop. The steering box has a leak around the pitman arm. Is this just a bad seal or could the box be going bad also attributing to my horrible shake problem? Edit: Jeep information. -1988 Comanche. Base. 4.0 4x4 -Automatic trans(have not looked into which one. Figure its an AW4 with comfort option) with what i'd assume to be an NP 231 -Stock suspension, steering, and everything else under the sun.
×
×
  • Create New...