skimore11

Alright I have been painfully swapping a S&S crate 4.0 into my MJ and it hasn't been going well. Last night I finally went to put it in and was having trouble getting it to slide back the last 2 inches. I went to pull it back out to reposition and the bell housing broke. A 4x4 triangle piece where the bottle jack was supporting the BA10 transmission was let loose. I don't think I have money for an AX15 so where do I find just a bell housing? Anyone do an upgrade and want to send me there BA10 bell housing? Thanks

I drive my MJ from Salem to Portland, OR every day.

I have a Garmin Nuvi and a Magellan Sportrak. I use the Nuvi in car and Sportrak for on my feet or mountain bike. I am not sure what models have it (Sportrak does) but if I really like the bread crumb feature so you can find your way back. I would find a Garmin that has it because Garmin has tons of online support and continues to improve. Also get a newer unit with the SiRF Star III antenna. It is the newer antenna and is much faster and capable of getting a signal where the older units can not.

Alright I have a lead on a 2002 4.0 with 45k miles on it. Any chance on getting this into my MJ? What is a good price? What years of the 4.0 are direct bolt on to the 88 with the pugeot 5 speed?

I don't know what size it is I just took a bolt and ground of the threads making it square until it fit. I think the bolt has a 3/4" head on it.

I am in Salem and Portland every day. I am leaking most of it. Some is going to my blow by catch system. Too me it doesn't look like its coming from the main seal. I am not saying I know I got it right. My guess would be that I messed up the pan seal but thats not clear either. I could not tell do to the amount of oil but the leak is worse on the drivers side and may be coming from up under the exhaust manifold. I am thinking about the engine from S&S still for $1100. Any one here have any experience or info on them?

Thanks for the offer Alex but I am in Oregon. I guess I should get back on topic. So the question remains get a clean rebuilt engine from S&S as I posted or get a running junk yard engine and have it rebuilt? Picking a junk yard engine out and finding a reputable shop to rebuild it is a bit overwhelming for me. What could I expect them to do and at what cost? I am really cutting my teeth on this MJ. I didn't have the opportunity work on any of this stuff growing up. So bring it down a notch for me. Thanks.

Update. I had put oil in on Thursday drove to work (100 mi round trip) and parked it for the weekend. Monday I had almost no power on the way home and the oil pressure dropped to zero. When I got home I had almost no oil in the engine. I put 4 quarts in and could have probably added another 1/2. After driving to work today it seemed fine. It didn't seem to drain over night. I am completely amazed at how it holds up to my disregard for the engine. I can't imagine many engines that can run 50 miles with no oil at 65mph. I am thinking I should get a "new" 4.0 on order. If I have one mine will last but I really need to stop the oil consumption.

The on going reason I am thinking about a new engine is that I am losing about a quart of oil every 200 miles (2 days) I have done the pan and rear main. Have the blowby going into a quart container. Today it sounded to my untrained ear like I was down a cylinder. Running really rough if I pushed it past 2000 rpm. My wife would go for a rebuild/reman but I wouldn't mind getting a donor and getting AC also for less money.

It looks like my 4.0 is on its last legs. It was really struggling on the highway today. What years will fit in my 88? How about an upgrade? The other option is to get a rebuilt engine. Heard good things about this shop. http://www.rebuiltautoengines.com/jeep- ... gines.html It needs to be a quick swap since I have limited time in my friends shop and its my daily driver. Thanks.

Your detail and craftsmanship are amazing. How much does it weigh? Seems like it might be a bit heavy on the tongue end.

Do these guys come around here? This MJ is on there homepage but I don't see it anywhere else. I would love to see the roll bar and bumpers. http://www.code4x4.com/index.html

Thanks for looking. But those look like the same as the ones I have gotten that don't fit. Search shows they are for the 2.5L I have put my old one back in. It isn't completely shot, so we will see. Would have been nice to replace it while it was out. Now I am thinking I should keep looking though, so if it does give out I have one ready.

Well the first step tonight is to attach the trans mount. It looks like I will be putting the old one back on for now. Any creative ideas on adapting a mount from the AX or anything else would be appreciated. Or does anyone have a mount that is no longer in use? There has to be one some where. Every article I found was about replacing the BA10.

On mine where the tubes meet the metal plate there is a stress crack and it leaks there under pressure. I just make sure not to fill it up. Its a pain though. I have tried some gas tank goop that works for a while but the jarring eventually cracks it too. Supposedly there is a rubber stopper the pump is supposed to set on in the tank to take pressure off the lines. I need to drop mine again and check to see that the pump is seated properly. Hope that helps.

I am working on replacing my clutch and while I had the BA10 out. I decided the rubber isolator portion of the transmission mount is shot. I can not find any place that has it locally or online. Every one has the 2625 which must be for the AW4. So what is the part number I need or do I need to buy the whole assembly for $100+ ??? You can see the rubber isolator sticking out the side of this one. http://www.shop.com/JEEP_CHEROKEE_Trans ... urceid=255 Thanks

I am doing an entire clutch kit replacement as soon as I can. What do I need to watch out for? I have a 88 4.0L so I am guessing its the BA-10. I am really tempted to get a HO and AX-15 but don't have the time or money :cry:

Thanks for the answer. I might try switching the injectors around this weekend. I replaced the rear main earlier in the summer. The oil seems to be draining out of my air box and running down into my drivers side wheel well. I don't have a lot of smoke other then at then end of my commute. 52 miles each way and its almost exclusively smoking on the drivers side. I assumed that the oil had made its way from the blow by back to the exhaust.

I was at a friends house trying to slow my blow by problem. 1qt every other day which is 200 miles for me. I checked all the lines and steam cleaned my valve cover. No change. I have a 4.0. So when he got back we did a compression check. Looks like the front cylinder is running rich (dark plug) and a little lower on compression 120 psi if I remember. Others were around 135. His first diagnosis was that the cylinder is running rich and causing oil to blow by the rings. Does this make sense? Can I adjust the richness on just one cylinder? Thanks Mike

So I was looking in JP Magazine today and in the Dispatch on page 10 "We've heard more hints the JT pickup is under serious consideration. Seriously. And could it get a Cummins? Seriously?!"

Ron, Sorry about the hi jack. I have a new hose and grommets in the back going to the intake. I took the tube off and cleared it with the air compressor. No change. I will have to take the compressor to the rest of the ports. As well as pulling the valve cover. Anyone have pictures or know of any of the inside of the cover? So by sealed up I meant new hoses in the back and RTV around the front grommet since the "Five Star" :roll: dealer here couldn't figure out how to order it.

I read all 4 pages at NAXJA. Mostly talking about buying the parts or fabbing some up. Seems there is some baffles in the valve cover that could stand to be cleaned but ....Is it possible that much oil is going through the filter box and down to the wheel well? I have the same exact problem. I sealed up the leaks at the top end and now my drivers side suspension and fender well are covered with oil. I was gonna build my new bumper this weekend but I think I need to fix this first. I am going through a quart of oil every 200 miles (2 days). I was thinking maybe the pressure is enough that its causing a leak under the exhaust where I can't see???

Went to look at my original post on this and looks like I moved my pictures around since then so here is my frame Before You can just see the ghost of the drainage hole in the bottom center. After

You asked for it. Looks like we have a winner. http://gojeep.willyshotrod.com/RonsBeijingMJ.htm

I don't know much but I had random high and real low idle problems. I was trying to get the blowby under control and used some high temp RTV to seal around the forward line in the valve cover that goes to the air box. Well since doing that I have had a much more consistent idle. Maybe coincidence?