wranglercory

its weird the truck will idle all day long like a new truck even when it gets warm. but with it warm it will not go past idle at all??? :headpop: havent gotten to try the EGR weve got it in the garage stripping the bad fender and doing a few odds and ends I know I'm loosing clutch fluid havent been able to track it down yet so soon as I get that back together Ill check the EGR.

I will try the EGR valve and yes it does still have the cat on it I havent gotten to opening up the passage for the air to move through better :brows: . So Do I just bypass the EGR valve and run it that way till it gets to the temp that it has problems at?

1987 MJ 2.5L 5 speed tranny with four wheel drive. I have a problem that I can better explain. This truck I just bought has a problem that when it gets up to opperating temp.(not exactly sure temp. without a gauge)after about 10 min. the vehicle can not be ran any faster than idle. If you give it gas it spits spudders and as soon as you let off the gas it idles fine. I have disconnected the O2 sensor. The problem continued after that . I also the time I drove it tried to dis-connect different sensors but no change. One thing the last time I drove it I noticed that if I while moving would shut the key off and restart it it would run ok untill I slowed down to a stop then back to idling again. I think I tested the sensor on the driverside of the throttle body but not completely sure it tested right. The truck is a pretty good truck once I get the bugs worked out. The other things I do know is that the fuel filter has been replaced. :headpop:

So I bought the 87. I disconnected the O2 sensor and drove home with the heater on high about 10 miles and the truck drove great. I decided to drive it this morning and about half way to work it wouldnt run any higher than idle. I made it but I'm not sure what to do next. I will reconnect the O2 sensor and try to disconnect the temp sensor. to see if that makes a difference. Does anyone have any other ideas. The truck runs great at first and on the way home I thought I had hit a home run. :no: turns out Ill be doing a little searching to determin the problem, With the help of many of you better educated Manche owners. :clapping: . lets see what kinds of things we can come up with to try on the trip home.

Thanks Ill start with the O2 sensor and go from there. If anyone has any other ideas I would appriciate them also. I will be going to look at it tonight after work.

Is there a way that I havent figured out how to test for a bad sensor or is it just test them one at a time? Like a diagnostic plug

just take yours off and go to the auto parts store they will be able to match it up for you. I would go with the rubber gasket.

Ok here we go I am likely going to purchase a 87 MJ with a 2.5 in it 5 speed tranny and 4 wheel drive. The guy said that it starts up fine and idles fine but he said that when it gets to opp. temp it bogs down or dies and he said that it will start back up, I would assume that from that point it continues the cycle. I am trying to possibly get a few ideas of what it could be . I have decided it could be the computer since I have been told by a comanche club member that the computer starts working when it gets to opperating temp. What do you guys think. I own a 87 the same except its 2 WD and I'm thinking I could try swapping parts to the other one to locate the problem. Ill be getting it for $300 he has already went down from 500 so well have to wait to see it. From what he has told me about what he has already done to it , that it will be well worth it. Here is what he wrote . i have a 1987 jeep comanchee for sale. It has the 2.5L 4 cyl engine, the BA-5 5 spd transmition, and the np231 transfercase. I have had the clutch replaced less than 3000 miles ago. The tires are still in decient shape and all match. the body is rough; the floor has holes in it that have been partialy repaired, there are rust spots all over, and it needs a new front drivers side fender and front and rear bumpers, the bed is still in great shape. No rust holes in the floor and the rearend is still intact. It has a large spidered crack on the front window but all the other glass is free of scratches and dings, the paint is faded maroon... Now the reason why i am selling my old work truck... It has an engine issue that i can't seem to debug myself and i don't have the funds to take it to a shop. It will idle all day long with no issue but as soon as it gets to opperating temp it bogs down and looses power as soon as the throttle is opened. That is the only issue ive ever had with this truck asside from the rust holes.

I am hoping someone out there may have one around. I have been having problems and I would like to try one to make sure its the problem first. Otherwise it may be a fuel pump and I have already looked for a test port, since I can't find any port to test I guess the next step is to hope to find one someone may be willing to let go for the price of shipping. My MJ is a 1987 with a 2.5L throttle body style inj. (single). Please let me know if you can help

I am curious if anyone has relocated there emergency brake cable to where they are on the Cherokee. I have the e-brake assembly just wondering about what length of cable I need for a short bed. Thanks

Well I have completed one of the seats and what I did worked flawlessly. I completely removed the bench seat, then I welded in the bucket seat perch. This is the part on Cherokees that the front two seat bolts bolt into. I had went to the JY and used a spot weld bit to remove them. lined everything up and presto the only bolt that remained was the rear inside bolt the other rear I drilled

Well still dealing with this problem, I have noticed something that may make a big difference. After starting and when it starts to spit and spudder if I apply more throttle it somewhat moreless comes out of it. If I ease up on the throttle or keep it whare its at not the case. Eagles post was very enlightening I wasnt aware how that worked thanks for the lesson Eagle :cheers:

So far I replaced the air filter and that did not produce any results then I bypassed the butterfly assembly on the front of the air box this seemed to help some . I also used a meter and tested the fuel injector and that also seemed to be good. I have yet to check the fuel pressure. Is there a port to check the fuel pressure on a throttle body inj. ??

I just took a load of junk to the dump and the scale said right at 4000 and I would say I had between 300 and 400 pounds of stuff in the back.

I have a 87 MJ with a 2.5 5 speed and I have been having this problem. When I first get in it in the morning warm or cold outside it doesnt seem to matter, the truck seems to spit and spudder around 1500 RPM. I have thought it could be something with the butterfly mechanism on the front of the airbox but I havent been able to troubleshoot that yet. I hope that someone in here has came across this problem and has some suggestions. After I have driven it for aprox 3-5 minutes it runs fine but when it sits at work for 9-10 hours its back then it goes away again. Thanks in advance for any help.

I would check the classifieds I'm sure someone has one. Just make sure if your spedo is the cable driven or electric one .

I would sand vacume clean real good and apply POR15 . They look great .

I was just wondering if anyone has installed a set of these buckets. I just got a pair of buckets from a two door Cherokee and after looking at them I think I will drill out the spot welds on the support in front of the seat that in the Cherokee the front of the seat bolts to. I plan to just drill out the spot welds on the Comanche and weld in the support from the Cherokee. I am just wondering if there is a reason I havent seen a write up on swaping buckets that way . I'm planning on doing a write up unless this has been done. The write up I saw had you completely dissamble the seats and use the bench seat brackets. The way I am thinking it can be done amounts to drilling out spot welds on the support to get the support out of both vehicles swaping the Cherokee support into the Comanche then I havent seen where the rear bolts will need to go but the simplest way I see is to mark and drill out the rear holes and put a grade 8 bolt through with a steel plate to add support to the under side.

Does anyone know if there are any other leaf spring packs from other vehicles that would work as a direct replacement for the MJ. Do the Cherokee springs work are they the same length. Mine is a 2WD and I would like to raise it at least up to what a 4WD is and I will do the real lift later in its life just not right now.

Keeping the bench would be a great way of keeping the wife from driving it I would think.

You will have more heat in the cab just due to the fact the coolant will be flowing through the heater core. It may not be all that noticeable but it will be hotter at the heater core. The sole reason behind having one is to stop the coolant from getting to the heater core with AC on but if you bypass the bypass youll have coolant constantly going to the heater core. I have one in my garage if you would like we could work out a deal.

I'm just wondering what it should cost to paint my 87 MJ minimal rust repair just a cab corner but other than that what should it cost to get a good paint job? Not a spray paint paint job either a regular paint job.

I just recently found an article in JP mag. about installing a turbo. The companys name is 505 Performance at www.505performance.com they were very helpful and have all the parts that Ill need as I can get them. They have complete kits or you can order parts separately. The guy that I talked to said that I should be able to get around +90 HP more with the turbo. I am waiting for the dealership to call back to see if the AX5 will stand up to the power.

Breeze1 how many psi can I go up to using the factory fuel system. By the way what are fmu’s, pumps, bov,I assume the first is the fuel management system. How much if I go over what the factory fuel system delivers would be the first stage fuel mgmt. sys cost entry level , lets call this a stage one :dunno: :brows: is there a good place that breaks down a turbo setup for a beginner like myself.

At a minimal boost of only about 5 psi, I don't think the trans. will have a problem keeping up. Also keep in mind that the turbo will only be to boost the power slightly and the fuel milage will from what I have researched increase only slightly. I don't plan on running an insane amount of boost just a small amount at first and work on it from there. If the trans is that week it needs replaced anyway right? ;) I would like to get an idea if I will need to do anything as far as fuel management and what turbos are the most readily available