UNL1MTD

When i bought the truck the horn didn't work. I swapped in another and it appeared to be good. Over the course of the last month I have notices that it has been a little touchy to get the horn to sound. Today it mades its last peep. Now when I press the horn I hear the loud clicking from the relay and all other electronics in the truck either dim or stop working. The wipers freeze, the radio stops, the headlights get very dim, and the gauges do the same. Oh and the horn does not sound. I'm guessing there is a short somewhere, but I'm really at a loss. Any suggestions?

I can dig it. But that is an option, wierd you get a chrome grill and no radio. If you do want to remove it, its not hard from what I understand and I think they go for about 100 bucks. You also have a spare tire cover, option #2.

that sounds like something out of a Porky's movie ... good stuff

Based on your spelling of the title, I'm thinking you should be less focused on the senior prank on more on your schooling. ;) Our class did nothing but kill the grass out front of our school with weed killer. Ofcourse it was in the shape of the numbers 2000.

cool vid. I think that definitely shows how much wheelbase helps on hill climbs. That first clip definitely shows the worst side of open diffs. Where is Haspin in Indiana? never heard of the place before.

Yea, you mean the part that is attached to the roof of the cab? I'll go pull it tonight. I know its impossible, but I wish you had your buckets installed when you were up. I need to test sit before I pull the trigger on that project. I definitely want the feel of buckets, but I'm afraid I'll be too tall.

sweet. Glad your making some good use out of the parts. Any luck with the Moon Roof Hardware?

Rims are Stock Jeep Ravine Style (15x8) - they came stock on my '05 Unlimited and I think some sports came with them aswell. They aren't bad but max tire width is 10.50 because the backspacing is 5.5. I actually sold my stock set to a guy with tires for 400. Bought this set with tires for 300. Each deal was 5 tires, but I ended up with a non matching spare and less tread. Shoulda never sold, but I didnt think I would ever be needing 31s again. :thwak:

bs or maybe I just really stink at it. But using all that I spent an easy 4 hrs doing one side of mine.

I just ordered an eraser wheel w/ arbor for 15 bucks. I'll report back once it comes in and I get a chance to try it out.

I'm down in Chesapeake. I've seen jeep stuff on craigslist in King George, is that you? Nope, I haven't posted anything on Craigslist yet. They selling anything good? Welcome and next time I'm heading to the OBX, I'll make sure to wave :wavey: And sorry to pull your thread off-topic.

what part of VA are you in? congrats on the truck, looks like a fun project.

I've used it on mine and it hasnt hurt the paint yet. Now me scrubbin it mindless has introduced some scratches.

backfire ... what do I win? ;) I just updated the pics with some text. Thought I would bump it.

A couple stiff detailing brushes and seafoam as a solvent inside a tubberware basin. It was kinda sorta a pain in the butt, but well worth it in the end. Its just manual labor, scrub scrub scrub. If I had more seafoam or whatever else(I hear kerosene works well) I could have had multiple presoak basins, which would have helped. But I didn't so most items only soaked for 5-10 minutes before scrubbin. See I didnt want to mix up rockers/lifters, so I took something off, soaked, scrubbed, then put it back on the engine. That way I didn't mix up its location or orientation. It worked, not fun ... but it worked.

Haven't updated this in awhile. Figured I get some pictures up and get motivated to add story later. This is a shot of her all loaded up ... what you can't see are about 15 cinder blocks and 6 dozen on so bricks stacked in the bed. She came down a good bit. She was riding on the overloads, but the springs still had some arch left. I guess it was in the neighborhood of 600-700 lbs, just about all that I felt comfortable loading in. Had a random day off and decided to fix a valve cover leak. Inside of the cover looked like this and at first I didn't think it was that bad. That is until I started cleaning it up and realized how much sludge was built up on it. The truck has 146k on it and was running Fram filters, thats all the history I know. Fixing the valve cover leak has its own thread on the tech side. It took me a couple tries. Anyways, this is a shot before I cleaned up the top end. At first I wasn't going to touch this. Figured 500 dollar truck aint worth getting that dirty over. But since I had to pop the cover a second time and I had all day, might aswell. I didnt have a lot on hand to do the project and just used seafoam and a stiff brush. Method consisted of removal of one rocker/lifter/bridge, soak, clean, get the other rocker/lifter, soak, clean, while both out clean most of the block as possible with brush. Then reassemble that cylinder and start to repeat on the next. Took all morning and into the afternoon. The before and after are striking and I think well worth it. The radio that came in the truck never worked right, but always worked enough for me not to care. I decided to put in a cig lighter from the parts truck and found this waiting for me in my truck. The PO robbed power from the cig lighter. Both switched and unswitched were tired into the cig power wire and he bypassed the fuse, which makes no sense. All connections had a crimp connector then were cut, then twisted together with no nut or anything, then wrapped halfarsed in electrical tape. I ended up getting another clarion cd player that my landlord had out of his old car for free and installing it. I used crimp on spade connectors and got all the wiring right on the third try (no diagrams for the clarion component). Also found out I have no rear speakers. Its nice to have a cd player, clock, and preset radio stations. I've done some other projects that I don't have any pics of. -I installed new interior lights using the ones at Advanced Auto. The install was cake thanks to the write up. I think the lights are adequate for the most part and a 100% improvement on the stock ones, mainly in looks and function. I think brightness is about even. -added the cig lighter as previously mentioned. -Added a set of cupholders behind the mini console. -I rigged up a like-stock spare tire holder too. Using the stock winch thing, 6x6 piece of scrap, 2 rubber isolators, bunch of washer, threaded eyelet, and double hook. I disassembled all the stock components, ran them through the glass beader, painted with rustoleum and got to work putting it together. Works good and holds my 30" spare nicely out of the way, doesn't make any noise either. -I have been working on removing the SporTruck decals too. I have the pass side off and just starting the driver's side. -Another project was painting the 2wd hubs with a similar paint. I lucked out on Dupli-colors silver metal flake. It matched almost 100% and looks good. You can see it below and compare it to the above shot. So this is her all flexed out. The future projects will include new weather stripping on the doors and who knows what else.

Another shot of mine And the guy who out ramped the ramp - ramp kept moving under the massize 39s and D60s ... not much rubicon left, his unofficial score was 1200 something.

Just jumped a dime here today to 2.95-2.99.

Out at the show and shine they had a ramp and I just had to put the MJ on it. Who cares its only a 2wd and near stock. My score was 407, which was higher than a Commander, a couple JKs, some YJs, and the CRV. If I had a 4wd the score would have been substaintially higher, I lost traction before getting close to lifting a tire. I did disconnect the swaybar. anybody else got pics and scores?

How did you get rid of the decals? I've done one side of my truck and it was a lot of scrubbin with Goo-Gone. Curious if you got a better solution. Truck looks good.

btt - event is tomorrow

which synthetic are you using? I was thinkning about trying Royal Purple's Synchromax in mine. I used generic napa GL3 and the shifting is not so good.

My Renix MPI system is making a rapid ticking noise. The noise sounds like metal on metal. It is present at start up and is present after running it for awhile (25 minutes). I did a bit of searching and the only lead I had was that it was an exhaust leak and not the Injection system at all. (searched 'engine ticking') My method of determining the source was taking a screw driver and putting it on different components while running and putting my ear to it, redneck stethoscope. The loudest ticking was about 1/2" on the fuel rail behind the Fuel Pressure Regulator. Is this a sign that it could be bad? Is there any common ticking associated with Renix MPI systems? My rig is still backfiring when the engine is cold, not sure if that helps clue anybody into my problem. But it is very little backfiring in comparision to when I first got it and it is no where near as predictable. Thanks, Sean

Can you just splice one in? My 87's fuel pump is crazy loud. It makes a constant whine/buzz ... it had be thinking that it is going to go up soon? But now after reading this I'm thinking it might be normal. Where exactly is this located on the MJ? My parts MJ is a '89 so I could rob it off that.

Well, you've thrown a bunch of variables at the problem, but 2WD vs. 4WD isn't one of them. They use the same speedo gear. What you are overlooking is that the "quill" into which the speedo gear fits, and which in turn is bolted into the tranny (transfer case, for a 4WD) has to be rotated to a different orientation depending on how many teeth are on the gear. That's how you adjust for the different sizes of gear. Since I ran 31x10.50/15s for some time, I'll start be pointing out that 31s with 3.73 gears works out to exactly the same final drive ratio as stock 225/75 tires with 3.54 gears as came from the factory with all 4.0L automatics. Assuming you have an automatic, your stock speedo gear should have had 33 teeth. (If your OEM tires were 215s, that would have been 34 teeth.) Okay. 33 teeth stock automatic. 33 teeth also good for 31" tires with 3.73 gears, but you're running 4.10s. So you need more driven teeth to make the speedo read slower for each revolution of the driveline. The difference in percent is (4.10 - 3.73)/3.73 x 100 = 9.92 percent. So you need a speedo gear with 9.92% more teeth than the original 33 teeth. 33 + 9.92% = 36 teeth. Which just happens to coincide with the number shown in a table of speedo gear selections I printed out several years ago, from a web site that no longer exosts, when NAXJA was in its infancy. Now ... about that quill clocking: Take a close look at the quill. You should see three small bars, and between the bars you should see numbers stamped/cast into the metal. The numbers correspond to the tooth count. There is a small index mark/boss cast into the housing below the hole the quill fits into, at about the 6:00 o'clock position. You need to rotate the quill untill the numbers of the range in which your speedo gear fall are aligned above the index boss. In the illustration in the old FSM they show only two sets of numbers, 32-38 teeth and 39-45 teeth. My fuzzy recollection is that the quill on my '88 MJ actually had three sets of numbers, but it doesn't matter. Whatever the tooth count, align the range into which it falls with the index mark. One other point -- if you get it to within 2 to 3 percent, stop fighting it. You won't get any closer. There's that much difference between tires of the same nominal size from different manufacturers, or from different inflation pressures. My wife's 2000 XJ speedo reads 2-1/2% faster than actual speed (verified by running through the police radar trailers more than twice) with the original factory tires. Most vehicles come from the factory with speedos that read slightly faster than actual ground speed. Your completely right, I was overlooking the quill clocking. I knew about it but havent had to do it in the past. The tranny is a manual and the stock gears were 3.07s. So the stock speedo gear is a 30 tooth count. The other MJ has a 40 in it. I'm pretty confident in the 38 tooth count going in, and if its close it'll work. Currently I'm reading high by about 12 mph at 60mph.