JeepcoMJ

don't you have an aw4? or is it a 4 cylinder auto? regardless, you can't slide them up over the top of the trans. for the aw4 you slide it up forward, slide it too far, then slide it back up and pop the lines in place. you may have to do 1 line at a time

Hey Pete, I could use about a bazillion more...I've been handing them out any time I see a comanche, and I gave a few guys round here who know of other comanche owners a few at a time... anyways, I could use some magnets and stickers pm me the cost of like 100 of each, I'll shoot ya enough to cover your expenses and buy a 12 pack, and I can keep handing them out

get the truck up in the air, slide the lines in from the bottom it's not too hard...I've done just 1 line and that's harder than doing both at 1 time.

Take a fuel sample in a glass jar. If it looks good, clean or replace all of the plugs and try it again. Also check for spark on a different cylinder, it sould clear a 3/16" gap no problem. I disco'd the fuel line from the rail, put a hose on it, and cranked the sucker over til the tank was empty (filled 6 gallons worth of gas with water in it :eek: :roll: ). then I put new plugs in it...3 plugs had cracks in them :oops: anyways, it runs. runs like $#!& but runs well enough that now I can bring it home tomorrow night.

Eagle, could you possibly shed some light? maybe you've experienced this???

I won't join naxja just because of that principal. I could understand if they asked for $10 per year and even limited me to 20 pm's and whatnot, but $50 for a 2 year membership....well, it's obvious that they're out for $$$ cause it don't cost that much to run a website from what I know :nuts:

haha, I sincerely doubt the adviseability of that... but then again, when one of my last options is somehow duct tape, I'd try anything...

hell, I got air...I removed the intake tube! as for dirty threads... guilty as charged. I cleaned them and it tried to start...a bit. added new gas and it tried to start more. just would crank for a bit, sputter like it hit 2 cylinders, crank, sputter, crank, sputter...and keep doing that. so I'll be buying new plugs for it...sad cause I don't even plan to use it. I'm pretty much convinced by now that someone's put some water, sugar, or something of the like in the gasoline.

RE states that the MJ is already renforced and the XJ bracket is not needed??? yep. it's stronger than an xj mount. but so far as not needed...think of it this way. you've added a pivotal (a lever essentially) by adding the drop bracket setup. it sits down lower than ever intended by factory, and a hard enough impact on the engine could potentially push back on the LCA mount and either A. destroy the DB, B. destroy the hardware, or C. destroy the frame. I am suggesting here to take precautionary measures and be sure you're not going to put yourself in a position where you can injure yourself or your vehicle, and where you don't get stranded. as for my pissed comment, to be clear, no, CW, I'm not angry about your statement. it's about other things. I just want to be certain that no one is going to be in danger because of anything stupid

CW, I completely understand what you're saying... BUT you give yourself 4 mounting points for each side on your frame, you are DEFINITELY gonna cause higher stress and most likely wreck the hardware, the mounts, or the frame. when it comes to rinforcement, I know what I'm talking about. yeah, you can get by without the reinforcement brackets, but sooner or later you're gonna have frame troubles. laws fo physics..apply enough force on something, it will break. apply enough force on something that's got some reinforcement, it will take more to break it. and yeah, I'm in a bad mood, and I'm willin to dance too.

ANYONE? I really need to get this thing home here a.s.a.p. and it's 40 min. away...I don't want to flat tow it, I don't want to pay to have it towed, and I don't have a trailer or truck to bring it home with. it's gotta ge able to run for me to move it around too.

youre gonna tare the SH*T outta the frame if you wheel with that. DB's are designed for cherokees with the cherokee reinforcement bracket. there is not a reinforcement bracket built for comanches. I highly suggest that you fabricate one to go from the DB backwards a bit...otherwise, like I say, you're libel to wreck the unibody frame on your rig. I don't have anything against them really, I want to put one on my xj. it's just that there's only 2 bolts holding it to the frame (maybe 4 if you use the spacer bolts), and that's too much stress either way on the frame without reinforcements.

It's probably worth the buy...and alot of us can get you the new gears etc. for the rear end (I have a set of 4.10 rear gears myself) 4 cyl 5 speed was generally a 4.10 gear equipped.

me gusta :D

I have a 231 21 spline in my MJ I would part with for your build. alright. well, if I need it, I'll buy it from you. I probably will need it truth be told...I don't think I want to give him an np207 case just because he'll be using it and I'll have to swap it again later. what would be the price for that? sounds like I'm gonna be buying back half of that truck...

it would cost you a running 4.0 xj that's in need of some work. you'd have to swap the engine, trans, driveshafts, complete engine wiring, complete interior wiring, header panel (if you had a 87 you'd already have a 4.0 header with a 2.5 rad. adapter). it can be done, it's easier than it sounds, you can retain your current axles. but basically if it's in the 4.0 engine bay, you have to swap it, and the wiring is different running inside the cab.

yeah problem is that there's spark. so it's not CPS...unless it's faulty CPS giving the wrong reading.

the 90 cherokee that I've still got to pick up won't start. it was running and driving mere weeks ago. it had a sticking throttle body. that's fixed, but now it won't start. when you crank it, it won't even fire. pulled the plugs and they're wet. dry them out and then crank to clear and put them in, it didn't fire. pull them again, wet again. dry off, check spark with the ground-the-plug method, it's got spark. ballast resistor is OK. when you crank it, you smell gas. but there's no puddles below it of gas, and there's no leaks in the line from what I can tell. do you think the plugs could need replaced? it should still fire regardless. when I say it won't fire, I mean NO fire whatsoever. not a sputter, not a cough, nothing. what would the problem be? I suppose firing order could be messed up if the plug wires were swapped around, but I didn't do any swapping of those. when it was last started a few days ago, the throttle was stuck open and it revved high. the PO shut it off while it was hi-revving and I pointed out the problem to it so he oiled the bad throttle piece and now that's fixed.

does anyone else think that that's one hell of a score? a 242 is just what I'm looking for :D

TNT concurs with you guys so that's a unanimous vote for 21 spline. now, I need to either A get a 231 21 spline cheap right away, or put a 207 in for the moment.

alright. I have a bit of a surprise here... I had originally intended to use the drivetrain fromthe 90 cherokee I got in trade with my 86 and my 85 xj wagoneer, in the 4wd swap (in his 91) I'm doing for a guy in trade for a 73 J4000. well, the 90 cherokee has an np242. I told the guy he'll have a part time 4wd in his truck, as he wanted. that's fine, I want the 242 for either the 3800 or my xj anyways. it's still a surprise though, I've been looking for a 242. anyways, I'd like to know, what would be the spline count of the input shaft for the t-case on a 1990 aw4 4.0 cherokee? it should be 21 spline, and that makes getting an np231 not so fun. it does however make putting the 242 into an ax5-equipped MJ/XJ easy. anyways, any insight would be great. I can give him an np207 for the time being but will need to get a 231 swapped in there in the long run.

that just sealed the deal...after research, I know it's not a quadratrac. I agreed to it, I honestly don't even care what kind of condition the bed is in, I have a fullsize flatbed at a buddie's place that I can put on it with dump action.

alright well the deal is a GO ...but for a 1973 J4000 with Turbo 400 trans, and dana 20 t-case. quadratrac tho.... anyways, it's missing the spacer/adapter between the trans and t-case....so he's throwing another complete trans and t-case unit in with it. :D

:D the only thing I'm leary about is cutting into the firewall...it would have to be done in order for the intake tube to hook up to the throttle body. that, or I could move the engine and trans forward a few inches. after all, I'll have a foot between the engine and radiator after this is done...

oh... I'm thinking that when I lift it this spring (to fit 33's), I'm probably wanna do something in the power dept. as well. been researching on the EATON superchargers used on the buick 3800. it would be a schweet swap to do... have to get a supercharger-equipped block though, compression would need to go from 9.4 to 8.5, and the metal composition of the supercharged motor is stronger (guess why lol). so that would give me a spare 3800 block, and while the motor is out I'd make new headers for the one going in the comanche, leaving me with the ones for the old block. I'd just have to get new bracketry for the motor (since all supercharge equipped 3.8's are FWD, I'd have to use that bracketry on the supercharged motor) and then I could install it in the cherokee in a weekend or two. other things that would have to accompany that swap are a ax15 with dakota 4 cyl housing, I would have to cut some of the firewall out (TB/intake is relocated to the back with the supercharger), and put a cowl induction hood on it with the airbox built into it but by going down to a 3" diameter serpentine pulley on the supercharger, I can get an extra 75 horse and 40 torque with absolutely no other mods to the motor.