JeepcoMJ

I think it's time to file a complaint as stated above. I sure hope you have pictures of it from before it was damaged. and get to a dealership for an estimate a.s.a.p.

I drove it with the bent front axle some more. then went to work. then drove it some more. won't be working on anything for a few weeks. need to finish packing the wheel bearings on the tow dolly and get the straps out for measurements and modifications for new straps that disconnect and get stored out of the weather, and the 3800 needs to get moved in which means cleaning the shop.

aluminum on steel promotes rust. :roll: epic fail if you're trying to prevent rust.

repair it yourself though, and pocket any money they are forced to give to you. go to a dealership and get an estimate for the repair. just because you have an estimate DOES NOT mean that you are forced to have it repaired by a professional. any checks cut to you by the windshield company or their insurance must be cut TO YOU not to a professional repair shop. what you do with the money is your own business. just to let you know, though, it will be over $500 to repair, if not more. especially since the estimate will include an OEM dash assembly ($200 by itself, at least, if it's available) repair it yourself. I'll do a write up for you if you would like. it's not hard, and it's not rocket science. your first time through will probably not be too fast, but it's gonna take less than a day.

15mm socket, short extension, ratchet. this can either be a 3/8 or 1/2 drive. your choice. phillips screwdriver for all the accessories etc. flathead screwdriver to pop the wiring harness clips out (unless you have the actual tool for this) 5/16 or 8mm 1/4 drive with several extensions and a ratchet (obviously). you'll also want a swivel. these are the 4 bolts holding the front of the dash in, and can be a PITA. I'd suggest bringing a cordless drill to perform all screw and front dash bolt removal, with a long phillips bit and a 1/4" socket adapter. 15 to 20 min. and I can have a dash out. 45 min. and I can complete the swap.

I'm with automan. DO NOT let them touch your dash. I've done at least 10 dash removals/swaps, and it's fairly simple. but it took me awhile to figure it out my first time without wrecking the wiring harness. it's not just the dashboard that swaps....it's the entire dash assembly. this requires that everything that's in, on, or around your dash must be removed in order to do the swap. that means steering column too (not completely removed, just loosen the upper bolts). it's not a cake walk. we can show you how to do it here if you would like to tackle it yourself (I would suggest doing it yourself....3 to 5 hours doing it your first time by yourself, and maybe $75 for a dash at the yard).

in the initial assessment I told them that I don't want pain meds past the first week. I can handle the pain.....hopefully they can figure out how to NOT administer penicillin though, cause that will kill me (literally). anyways...back on topic.

I guess I'm with don on this one. who cares? I sure as hell don't. akula69's interior will be out by tomorrow morning, I'm working today so it will be shipped out tomorrow. 87mjdriver will be getting payed what I owe him soon after that. LotGod's wiring harness will also be out tomorrow or monday morning. after that, if you don't want to see me around, pm pete and have my account banned/deleted/whatever. I frankly don't care. there is no time in my life to deal with jeeps, other people's jeeps, questions about jeeps, jeep parts, or anything entailing jeeps. I scrapped out what would be around $1500 of parts if I sold them cheap late last night, took them in to scrap this morning on my way to get my CPR recertified for one of my jobs, and the rest will be following suit once I've figured out what parts I need for future projects. this is my last post in this thread. I'm sure those who are entailed in these issues will post when it's all taken care of.

no, his cousin or something like that head-butted him in the ribs before the trip. I'm out on this trip. probably won't be wheeling (or working :() for awhile...going in for surgery to get my hernia fixed in the next few weeks.

so, older than the "cut-in year" are "classics" then and worth something still? man, this is ghey. think about it....if EVERYONE with a semi-older vehicle turns it in on this, they're cutting out two generations of cars....meaning that when you want to buy a used car in the future, it will more still be expensive because it won't even be that old. or is it the other way around? is 86 and up safe or scrap?

So what is the deal with this? is it ALL cars that are now effected and worthless? or just 1990 and up? 1990 and older? I'd like to know what the value of my trucks is now

I know why you posted this line, but it is really nobodys business but yours. You should not have to justify doing something to your truck even if it does cost you something. Shtuff happens, then you die...get over it. You are a tremendous resource on this forum because of your experience, and I would hate to see something happen that would make you not want to return. I hope everything gets resolved peacfully and without incident for all of our sakes. It would be a great loss for all of us to lose you. Sorry if I hijacked! :cheers: officially hijacked. It's no one's fault but my own, so I'm not hiding facts. I could care less if everyone on the board hates me and/or has personal issues with me. I'm more or less sick of being a parts hoarder. I got home from work early, went through my storage and looked at any parts I have that are not exceptionally hard to come by (non-MJ specific) and I won't be using anytime in the near future, grabbed them, and threw them in the trash. anything I don't need goes to the dump on monday. shipping and non local sales of items are not something I'm willing to do any longer, because I've proven that I don't have time or patience to do so. so, the crap is gone, and the stuff that I need is staying. anyways, back on topic.... edit: thank you, BTW

So I bent the front axle on my 87 MJ this past weekend I've got an empty housing here that I will be trussing...but I was thinking of how I want to do it. I figure that if I'm going to truss it, other things can be improved as well....i.e. CA mount locations and shock mounts on the axle was thinking of using some tube that has an OD matches the ID of the upper CA bushings as the backbone of the truss...bending it to contour down on the axle to clearance for the oil pan. the tube would go thorugh both factory UCA mounts, and bend down towards the center then level out across the center tube. they would poke through the UCA mount towards the outsides, where I would plate them off and use flat 3/8" steel stood vertical to truss down the the coil spring buckets. I had collars made for factory UCA bushings quite some time ago, which I would pretty much mount directly on top of the factory UCA mounts, and they would be tied into the truss (this is why I want the tube there...welding to cast isn't fun). the "backbone" of the truss would have plates going down in front of and behind it to weld it to the axle tube, with holes put in and flanged to add strength and allow for dirt/mud/h20 to drain out of the truss itself. the UCA mounts would be raised accordingly to keep the angles proper for the CA's to function...basically they would be behind the axle. To do that, I would have to cut off the rear of the coil mounts, and also the shock mounts. doing this would gain ground clearance. the shock mounts would then be welded on in a bar pin eliminator styling with the eye of the bushing facing forward/reverse to allow for better flex. I also will need to angle the shocks outward so they don't catch on the frame rail at full flex. to do that I would have to move the upper shock mounts outward on the body by about 1". I'd have to plate that area of the fender well to add structure. this would raise my CA's to the angle of a 4.5" lift with adjustable short arms. my control arms are RC 4.5"-6.5" adjustables so I can achieve this pretty easily. Basically this would add strength to the axle, keep me at the same lift height, improve ground clearance, improve the function of my shocks, and improve the angles of the control arms. end result: smoother ride on the road, and more flex off the road. Does anyone have any opinions? I'll try to sketch it out in microsoft paint for you. BTW none of this will cost any money...every part I would need including scrap steel and new UCA bushings are things I've had laying around for awhile.

All I have to say about it at this point is that it will be taken care of within the next few days. I will not be selling anything to any non-local comancheclub members in the future. the last thing sold non-local is a renix 5 speed wiring harness to LoTGoD. I guess don't worry about dealing with my crap. I'm glad now that it's all out in the open. Now please don't bother me if you need parts in the future. Thanks.

mind you, that's flat tow. towing on a dolly is different. if it's 4wd the t-case does lock front to rear in the neutral position so it's best to remove the rear driveshaft.

I never did get a reply from ya if you are using a 4.0 or a 2.5? or something different altogether? I haven't really been following your build thread, unfortunately (for me apparently lol). You could have simply used an ax15 with some sort of gear kit in it and it would have bolted directly to a 4.0. if you have a 2.5 liter then an ax15 with a 90's dodge dakota bellhousing would have worked as well. T5's, like I'd said, were never offered in cherokees or comanches. there have been a very select few that came from the factory with the t5, but most were 4wd and v6's in 1986 due to the factory not having enough ax5's to put in them. but I guess all of my T5 and AX5 info is moot....because after looking up your thread I see that you have a 4.0 liter. why not just build and use an AX15? they came in 2wd, they're cheaper, and I believe you can get gear kits in them. they're better than a T5.

wanna upgrade it a little better? swap your cylinder head to a 1991-1995 head. the '99 head restricts flow. that's why they made the intake so much larger and better flowing. do this mod, throw away the throttle body spacer, and you will notice 15hp and 30ft/lb torque increase (roughly) and much better throttle response. go one step further and go with a bored TB for ridiculous throttle response. I've got a 1995 H.O. that's almost new with a full conversion in my 87 MJ. it has a mid-99+ intake on it with a bored 62mm TB and the throttle response is so good that it takes only a couple seconds to bounce off the rev limiter in sand type terrain, and I flat out smoke most other jeeps on the street (well, not so much now with the h20 in the transmission...)

thanks. it's not quite finished....I still need to finish the clevis mounts and reverse lights built into it but it works for now perhaps a better pic

this is my 86's rear bumper (similar to above, higher weight rating) the frame mount got bent a little in the accident and the rear bumper has moved right on the body about 2", but that rear bumper saved the inner bedside. it also took out the engine in a brand new mitsubishi eclipse a few years ago when the ditzy college girl rear-ended me. didn't even get a scratch. it's flat towed many jeeps, hauled a couple car dollys and even a few 4 place snowmobile trailers and the like. no matter what though I wouldn't trust any comanche rear bumper with a car hauler....the truck doesn't weigh enough and here's my wheeling truck. I built this one I'll have to get pictures of the new mounts for the rear bumper on the wheeling truck

lol. I really am not trying to attack you or your choices. I'm just saying what it is. just do us a favor and don't try to actually use it for towing....it's not very strong and is rated under what the factory step rear bumper is rated

wahoo, the brake lines will hold up fine. as for the rear bumper pictured in this thread....that's one chintzy POS that I would not trust to hang a luggage rack off of. I had one of those on an MJ I bought, and it lasted me a day from buying it. couldn't even handle my small 1 place snowmobile trailer. I have one that's similar, but much sturdier and finished in the front (i.e. not just chopped off where it meets the bed corners...it curves around so there are no sharp corners) and so does my brother. those are nicer. basically I'm saying you get what you pay for....and a good bumper costs more than that.

Actually, I have not posted here because I really don't know what to say. 87MJdriver will get his money, when I have time to send it (tomorrow). up to this point, I have sent him two postal money orders, which have not been recieved. Frankly, I don't have a bank account tied to my paypal right now and I would much rather paypal it so I may tie it together first....I am out over $100 by sending him checks (because I lost the reciept for the first one and so could not prove being the sender of a check that was never cashed...I did get the money back for the second check, however). Akula69 has also experienced this problem with me and shipping....I have sent him one interior, which got crushed at the shipping center on accident before it even left. I replaced what was crushed and dropped it off to be sent to the same destination but it never was. I have it now and will be shipping via fedex instead. He is more than welcome to a refund of half the cost if he would like. as for the axle...total cost to replace is $0. I have an empty housing, and all the ball joints in this one were new 6000 miles ago when I built the truck, and I have a set of ujoints laying here from a build that never happened (years ago) as well as good (used) unit bearings. the gears can be reset for trade on parts or a few beers locally, so that will cost $0, and the steel and tube bender for the truss are things I already have. The only thing that the damage will cost me is time, which I have very little of. It will probably sit for awhile before I tear it down for a complete rebuild on the truck for the simple fact that it needs a windshield and a paint job as well. Yes, I am busy. I acknowledge that I suck at shipping things and that it takes a ridiculous amount of time to get them sent. As much excuse as I have, it's completely invalid in the eyes of the purchaser and I understand that as well. I'm happy to refund, but I'm not so happy to be out money because someone else (USPS) screwed up and either couldn't read my handwriting or can't comprehend recieving addresses. I will make things right. 87mjdriver, please do me the favor of sending me your address and paypal address, as well as what I owe you via pm. I would like to send it via paypal, but (correct me if I'm wrong....I haven't done this in awhile) it will take several days to tie my bank account to paypal before I can send you the money through paypal. -Pat

hornbrod... my 91 H.O. fuel pump is the same size as the renix pumps. the sender cradle is almost the same with slight variation because of the different float sensor for the fuel gauge. however, I have a spare 91 XJ pump/sending unit that I had gotten after assuming it would be the same. it is not. it's about half the size of the MJ pump. looking everything over, neither of them were modified to fit at all. I've verified it as well by looking at other sending units. how then, are they the same parts?

bien hecho a su projecto....me encanta verlo cuando estas terminado

hehehe. I went fast, there were bumps, divots, etc. and all sorts of other stuff. I believe it had been slowly bending all day as steering got worse through the day. got some trail rash on the pass. side cab corner/rocker too but nothing big. other than that I just lost all of my shock bushings on the way down (threw in cheapo RC's so I didn't have to get bumpstops done for the edelbrocks) all-in-all I think everyone had a fun time. I sure did....not even mad either. drove over 200 miles home like that without so much as a hiccup. :j: more pics