JeepcoMJ

alright. I'm converting my '87 comanche with a '95 H.O. conversion to a '99 cherokee. it's a 4.0/auto/np231 obviously I'll have to swap the... throttle body sensors intake sensors distributor coil alternator temp sensor (and block off rear sensor hole) wiring harness (which will require a few different holes cut in the firewall, and some blocked off) heater box the neutral safety switch will be swapped because of 2 reasons...different connector, and mine is bypassed as it is bad. my question is this... I have a '95 AW4 in the truck right now. there is nothing wrong with it. I don't want to pull it out, because it has fresh fluid in it. there's no reason to unless rumors are true and there is, in fact, an added sensor on the '97+ aw4. I also don't want to swap the flexplate. for the same reasons. I THINK that the timing windows are the same (based off the fact that geonovast's brother has a '91 flywheel in his '99 xj). my plan is to take a junk engine harness I have, cut the '95 aw4 connector out of it, and cut the connector off of a junk '97 aw4 I have here, splice them together to make a jumper, and put it in so I don't have any permanent hack job wiring. any thoughts?

tore the tan dash out of the donor xj. I was going to run my '98 dash and harness with the '99 dash covers, but I discovered that this harness is in very very nice shape, so I'll be using this complete setup. tan dash pieces dash and dash wiring (main harness) bad pics, but you can see the frame contacting the oil filter here again, bad pic, but you can somewhat see how the motor mount twisted on the body side... engine/wiring it is EXTREMELY bent... driver's side firewall complete dashless firewall. need to pull the heater box in order to get the rest of the wiring out (it's pinched pretty bad inside, I don't want to tear the wiring if I can avoid it)0 this is how bent the door is over all decent progress.

yep, it's the router for sure.

there has been nothing posted in this topic that is hard to understand. if you don't get it, get out of the hobby.

I put my phone number in, but type it out as words, not numbers. then I post very clearly that I prefer to text.

brent, the driver's is for sure. passenger the ears are fine, just gotta verify it's not bent (tube isn't bent, inner C and all control arm mounts are)

actually, yeah. it is tan. I have a grey one, too. I have 2 complete '97+ 4.0/auto conversions. one with manual windows, one with auto. both with cruise. these include everything from the center console forward, less seats and carpet.

I have yet to buy a '99 xj with a good set of fenders and front clip...

thanks, and thanks. I didn't want to buy another one...but I'll have the $$$ I spent on it, plus to have a buddy tow it, back by the end of the week. I paid $125 for him to tow it for me since it was over an hour away, and I don't have a flatbed (axle is held on by only 1 control arm, couldn't dolly it)

then you're an idiot, and your not doing it right. last time I try to help you. go pay someone to do the work properly, cause you're obviously incapable of doing it.

already went at it with a multimeter to see if I could figure it out. no dice. either I buy the parts, or buy a new one.

stage 1: bought a '96 xj 3.55 geared high pinion d30 from the junkyard today. jeep had a reciept in the glove box for new wheel bearings, brakes, ujoints, and ball joints in it 3,000 miles previously. cost me $250, complete end to end. went to the next junk yard down the row that had an xj in it with a lift kit...someone bought the axle, and left the shocks and coils. I just grabbed the coils since there's no way in hell I am running Rancho shocks. coils cost $20/each got home, compared coils, they're 2.5" shorter than my 6.5" coils, and bigger diameter. painted them black, adjusted my control arms to 4" lift specs, tossed them in with the "new" axle. just need to install my steering, and adjust the uppers to 1/4" longer to correct the pinion angle and set the castor (or camber...whichever) properly, then raise the brake line mounts to stock location so the YJ hoses aren't too long, connect them to the '96 calipers, and put the other shocks, stabilizer, and breather hose in it. then the front axle is done, and I can move on to the wiring/interior/door swap. pics. and I also picked up a parts xj today viewtopic.php?f=3&t=25575&p=267630#p267630

I let him sit on it for awhile. I put a patch over the hole in the oil pan real quick today, and connected the truck to a battery, filled with cheap oil, and started it. runs great, good oil pressure, and all electronics work except the headlights. ended up he told me come get it for $150. I gave him $200 cause that's what I wanted to pay when I first saw it, and I didn't want to screw him too bad. passenger side inner C is bent 3 different ways, ujoint blew up, but the shaft is OK, and both ball joints seperated and yes, the radiator and entire front end is twisted, as shown in this picture. it's bent up every which way. it has good: engine trans transfercase front driver's wheel bearing front axle shafts front brakes passenger rear door both driver's doors power options, minus bent up driver's window regulator rear hatch (small fixable dent...better than the rust they get up here) cruise servo/switches wiring dash windshield rear axle (29 spline 8.25) gas tank driveshafts catalytic converter sensors 3 good whatever those jeep rims are. I have one more to make a complete set of them. I'll be able to sell the trans, wiring conversion, rear axle, gas tank, rear doors, rear hatch, factory tint rear windows, roof rack, windshield, and a bunch of little stuff. the motor doesn't have any broken mounts (thank God), and has good compression, and sounds pretty quiet. it will need a new oil pan and rear main, I'll check all bearings and the cylinder walls when I do that for scoring, and then it's going into beaterjeep's '88 comanche with a '92 harness and 2wd ax15. I'll be using the tan dash, driver's door, and tail lights on some of my projects, plus the power wiring harness in it too. should net about $750 in profit from the parts I'm selling plus scrap price of the jeep.

sold the 4.10 gears out of it after I yanked the front axle out, got the dash and interior wiring removed.

after the full belly skid. a snorkel IS something I want to do. I may buy one of the "cheap" safari knockoffs from ebay and put it on til I can afford a nice one.

now that, i can understand being upset by.

yep.

That's exactly what I was going to say. Except I was going to use correct grammar, punctuation, and spelling. I'm sorry to whoever disagrees, but that little exchange is just effing brilliant. Holy crap that's funny! :jump: thank you, Darren, for that. you have made my day.

i hate idiots who think that someone is held to selling to you, when you supposedly "want it bad" but don't want it bad enough to put money down, or come get it. cash is king. I sell anything I have for sale on a first come, first serve basis. only my friends and acquaintances get the benefit of me putting it on hold. and return customers...and that is because I have had the chance to gauge their personality and reliability. I just sold a set of 33" swampers this week. had them up for $325. guy calls, has $200 cash. I told him if he gets here with it, they're his. he didn't get there before another guy called, got there, paid full price, and left with them. cash is always king. been screwed too many times by waiting for people.

trim out the bad floors. place new floor pan is. locate the lips for the frame rails. mark spots every 1" for the complete length of the lip on the frame rail (mark it into the new floor pan) and drill out those marks. there are two lips (flanges) per frame rail. set the pan in, use a hammer to hold the pan down, and use your welder to start spot welding those holes down. THEN start going from center to corner on either side of the pan with spot welds until you get all the way aroundn the pan.

it will be closer to a 3.5" drop when I'm done with it...because measurements show that there will only be 2" up travel if I go down to 4"..and the upper control arm mounts will contact the motor mounts when it's driven at anything that can flex the front axle. bumpstops will be our friend, and air shocks should be too. wish I could get some air bags for joe, but I just can't spend that kind of cash.

thanks. for starters, tomorrow I am... buying the dana 30, complete end to end, new brakes, calipers, and hoses on it, and buying 3" coils from the local junkyard. I'll eventually go with a set of 3.5" coils, but for now I'll run two isolators per side, so I don't have to drop $180 on coils. I will be gutting the engine wiring tomorrow, removing the radiator, and welding a stock driver's inner fender back into it, too. then a couple other projects to finish up tomorrow night, and tuesday I'll get the '97 engine wiring installed, then start gutting the interior to redo the headliner, install the '97 dash, the dual diaphragm brake booster, the zj proportioning valve (for the rear disc conversion that I WILL be doing), and to start swapping doors. My goal is to have this thing running and driving with the conversion done by friday so I have a daily driver since I sold my xj, and my other mj, leaving me down to just the 3800 and this truck. I'm borrowing my brother's truck until I finish his dash wiring swap, heaterbox replacement, dash replacement, headliner install, and floors. another reason I gotta have this done by friday is that a customer needs me to install a new 4 cylinder in his xj, and a 4wd trans and tcase in it in preperation for the 4wd conversion once we find an axle.

so, I'm taking my ol' wheeler and doing a new thing with it. old thread viewtopic.php?f=7&t=9967 so here's what it is going to be. 1987 bed and uniframe/cab comanche open dana 44 with 3.55's in the rear...it will get a locker at some point. (already installed) metric tonne rear mj springs (already installed) 3.5" front lift, using my RE track bar and RC control arms plus whatever coils I find, and a set of shocks picked up from Tim (TNT) here on the forums 3.55 front dana 30 from a '96 4.0 xj my current front bumper (made by TNT) new custom rear bumper made by me factory front skid and gas tank skid 31x10.50R15 dayton timberlines on my nice set of cragar soft 8's (15x8/3.75"bs) '97 front end '97 wiring conversion (doing this solely to gain OBDII) '97 dash '97 doors with full power it will remain automatic with the aw4, I sold the SYE 231 but swapped to a sealed output np231. I may get a sealed output np242 for it, though. 4.0 HO that has 10k miles, mild bore, mild cam, 2001 intake, borla header, mustang 5.0 injectors, 62mm throttle body dual optima batteries...one in stock location, one in the bed, with a custom dual setup for it to jumpstart itself if need be. winch at some point to go on the front bumper keeping my older style seats and the tuffy lock box center console. going with a tan interior still, removing all camo, new headliner and new carpet. I'm removing the roll bar, going with a full on york compressor system for on board air, relocating the peterbuilt air tank for it (or making a custom air tank to go where the factory spare would go) building a cross between a contractor's ladder rack/safari roof rack/topper, which will have a pneumatic extending boom permanently mounted in the center hanging from the rack, with a geared down hand crank winch on the end of it for lifting engines and axles, thens liding them into the bed. that rack will have four 6" hella fogs on the front, mounted on a pivoting cross bar with brush guards built into it, with a smaller pneumatic ram on it to control angles (doing this just for sh*ts and giggles, plus more switches). I have sliding side windows from a topper that will be mounted to aluminum side panels, so I can easily remove the sides of the "topper" to expose it. the roof will be permanent, the roof rack mounted above that. final thing will be a new paint job once I finish the body work and fixing the rear flare mounts. it will be in black primer before winter...I need the black base to make the dark cherry/burgundy color I've chosen as dark as possible. I'll post the new pics as it progresses. currently the rear axle is in, the front is gone since I sold it today. The point of the project isn't a wheeler. it is to have an armored and capable comanche built for utilitarian/light offroad use.

I have a miller spectrum 300 plasma cutter, and it has been a Godsend. BUT. the thing is putting +24vac to the air solenoid at all times now. air solenoid could use a new seat, but they only sell the whole thing for $70. the PC board is bad, which is why it's putting constant power to it...that's a $300 part. my choices...wait, hopefully find another 300 for parts or cheap so this can be a parts one, or just drop $750 on a good lightly used spectrum 400 locally. I could probably get it closer to $650 from the guy. it's a better cutter that can cut thicker steel, too. what would you do? I would rather fix this than buy a $400 chop saw and have it be much less useful. I use this for building bumpers, rock rails, even for cutting out designs for some lawn decorations and stuff for my mom.

well, the interior won't work until the engine is swapped which won't work til the wiring and transmission or swapped. I would... find complete cherokee gut cherokee, labeling things you may forget. gut comanche swap wiring swap engine/trans/front axle/shifter stuff install interior install '97 doors install '97 front end. call it done.