fiscus

Last night I installed a CD player into my MJ using the PO's rigged up wiring for the time being. (hot wires to fuse box under dash). This morning I drove to work & my gas guage was pegged all the way to the right. Is there a fuse or something that I could have popped to cause this? The speedometer seemed to be working fine, but the rest of the cluster is the idiot guages. I gotta have a gas guage, I have a leaky tank so I can only fill it 1/2 way...

I got a "christmas tree" door panel clip in my tire the other day. You'd think plastic would break before entering the tire... A buddy got a pair of scissors in his TSLs and another buddy actually got a fork in his. (brings new meaning to "a fork in the road")

There was a couple page article on a Comanche in 4-wheeler or 4wd this month too, it was testing some new AT tires in the desert.

If you have a 5-speed like your sig says, then I don't think you'll even have to jury-rig it, that TPS is just for automatics, your TPS looks different I think. If this is your TPS, you're good to go: http://www.rockmodified.com/offroad/Tech/TB/tb_perf.htm Make sure you run SOMETHING to get the exhaust away from the cab if you're running rich, my exhaust ripped off (again) and on my last wheeling trip when I got out of the XJ I was high as a kite from the fumes & had a pounding headache...

Timing a 4.0L? As stated above, it's self-adjusting & you shouldn't have to bugger with it. The only way to really mess with the timing is to move the Distributor forward or backward a tooth. The stock Metal gears & chain should be good, never saw any go bad. 2.5Ls, on the other hand, have the plastic chain tensioner that wears out. This link my proove helpful to you: http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Eng ... ostics.htm

I just "jury rigged" mine. I get 10-12 mpg turning 33s on stock gears with the HO injectors. I clogged my cat (and killed my tranny) from running rich, not sure if it was the TPS or injectors fault. If I had it to do again I'd try the adaptor.

As long as you have a title they should take it, I don't see why not. Sit it on your trailer & yank the axles out, when you get to the yard have them poke it with the forks & haul it over to the crusher area. I've sent a couple hulls to the crusher this way.

You will need one of these, otherwise everything just about plugs right in: http://www.hesco.us/shop.asp?action=det ... 563&catId= The HO injectors may make your XJ run too rich & get poor mpg (but it gives you a power boost ). :brows: Here is my old write-up on doing this with a 93 motor: http://www.terrainstompers.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=14

Yes, but there's a few more sensors you'll have to adapt too.

I don't think that an 01 engine would be THAT hard to plug into a Renix system, provided you also get all the misc stuff(or have access to it if you would need it) off of the donor Jeep. You'd basically take all the sensors, pullys & what-not off of your old motor & put them into the donor motor. Only a few parts would need adapted or modified.

hmmm... I am wanting to stay under 5" lift definitely, so 5.5 rear would be more than I want... Could I take out the smallest stock leaf if my lift is too high with an SOA, or would that compromise the pack? I'm thinking it would.

Yes, HO motors deleted the EGR & replaced them with internal motor upgrades.

I think it's not the CPS, possibly IAC or TPS? I just did a CPS on an XJ, I just stuck my arm up there & took the bolts out; (removed front driveshaft first) is it harder to get to on an MJ?

:???: I thought that for 12.5 or 13.5 tires you were supposed to run a 10" rim? That way there's less stress on the sidewalls. (and run an 8" rim for 10.5 tires?) At least that's what I've always went with... am I wrong?

How much lift do you have? (could you measure to the flares from the hub centers?) This looks a little higher than I was wanting to go, if I go that high I'd want bigger tires & get less mpg (this is my daily driver; I have 2 trail rigs already...)

I have ZJ coils in my XJ & I thought this XJ with the above mentioned coils drove the same. It also did not have swaybars (removed) and I did not notice any body roll or even notice them gone on the road. It flexed great offroad still (it crawled right up & out of the ditch in the photo above on 33s, while others on 33s & 35s had to follow the rut).

So, you're saying that 2wd leaves sit lower than 4wd leaves? If I did an SOA using my existing springs I'd only net 4-5"?!?! Sounds like a PLAN! Yes, I know all about the front axle/steering end of lifting XJ/MJs, I was confused on the rear axle end of MJs; I've lifted many an XJ (and a couple TJs) in my garage.

The info on the front end is here: http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Sus ... t_Lift.htm It appears that they were '79 coils. We just put them on my father-in-law's XJ here is a recent photo of it in action:

They are the same diameter (top & bottom) as XJ coils, they provide around 2.5" of lift. I drove My father-in-law's XJ with these on a 1.5 hr drive home from a trail ride & thought they rode excellent.

This explains most of the sensors & how to test them: http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Eng ... ostics.htm

Ok, I have a lot of experience lifting XJs, but I might be a little confused as to MJs. My MJ is currently 2wd & I am thinking of making it 4wd; I would like to go ahead & lift it at the same time if possible. I think I could use F150 coils & spacers for the front (like on an XJ), but what would be my cheapest option for the rear? I know it's sprung under, so adding lots of leafs is not the answer... (I would like to keep it around 4" total lift, so I assume a simple SOA is out of the question?)

I'd be most worried about a 12.5 tire on an 8" rim. The backspacing will be fine though.

I was working on making 1 good alternator out of a few different ones I had in my agarage last night. After that I took it up to Autozone & had it tested, they said the voltage regulator was bad. I said "what part is the voltage regulator?" & they had no idea. I took it home & swapped some internals over & threw it in the XJ & it charged fine. I am guessing the voltage regulator was the spring-loaded round part? Does anyone know where to get diagrams for parts like this? I have some FSMs, but they don't show you how to take EVERYTHING apart.

If you don't want to worry about the CAD functioning properly, it's easy to eliminate: 1. Remove the housing/fork. 2. Pull the c-clip off the rod on the side of the fork closest to the diff. 3. Slide the rod towards the pass side & fork toward the diff side. 4. Replace c-clip in old location on rod (which is now on opposite side of fork) 5. Gently roll jeep forward to engage collar on both shafts. 6. Replace fork on collar. If you don't have a locker in your D30, this is what I'd do. It only takes about 10 minutes. You can also always switch it back later if you fix the vacuum issue or get a locker.

Don't worry about the computer, you can run the HO on the Renix computer! Here's a write-up if you're interested: http://www.terrainstompers.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=14 I know of 2 people who have HOs with peugots & no problems so far...