BLHTAZ

There is a company called Titan Engines out of Ocala Florida that builds Strokers for about $2200 exchange. I think that is the way I am going for our '95 YJ :D .

Yea, I have found those specs in a couple places, but I can not confirm that it is possible to do the swap in a non-HO engine. All of the info I am finding is for a crossover of Mopar part #53030778, which is an HO injector, to the for injectors. It looks like the Mopar #53003659, which is what I have, does not have a matching Ford swap. I found a set of 6 of the 53003659 reaplcements made by Crown on eBay for $99, but I am still doing a little more research before buying anything.

Well, while working on the other hose leaking, belt sqealing issues, I discovered thet there is a fuel injector leaking now too. I have been trying to find the issue with a bit of a rough idle problem and suspeck that this may be it, or part of it at least. The question is...I have seen talk of using fuel injectors from a Ford Mustang 5.0L, but I have never had the occasion to research it, so does anyone here know what year 5.0L or any info on which ones to use?? I have heard three good things about doing this swap... -Wide angle (60 degree - Jeep is straight) spray pattern for better efficiency -Lower cost that Jeep injectors -More power

Yea...every time I think of the soap trick, I have visions of fingers going through pulleys :eek: . It definitley got soaked with coolant all the way around several times as the leak was spraying directly on it whike it was running...and it is a brand new belt too :mad: Yes, we were just talking about that guy at work the other day because all the guys there know that I am big in to selling stuff on eBay too, so they were giving me some sh%$# over it ;)

A very common misconception. Once gears are used, they have a set pattern/groove. After they have had the break in time to establish this pattern, if you remove them, you can never get them back in the same pattern again and this will lead to an early demise of the gears. It may work for a little while, but they will likey be loud as well. If it is a short term fix, then give it a shot, but it is not recommended if you are going to depend on it to last. ;)

Gears are a very difficult monster to figure out. The shimming never works the same way twice...even on the same set of gears the came out. If you are lucky and put the old gears back in, it might work, but if you shred the gears...yes, you could do damage to other parts that would stop you from being able to fix it and dsdrive again the next day. It could break the carrier, spider gears or locker (which ever you have). I have done a couple sets of gears, but never without the supervision of someone with a lot of experience watching over my shoulder and always with the proper tools to measure backlash and properly set the pattern. Moral of the story...NOT a good idea to waste time with used gears and improper install. Buy new gears and bearings and do it right the first time. :cheers:

It sounds like the ignition "switch" (electrical part, not the cylinder) to me. It is located on the steering column under the dash and does cause the type of trouble you are talking about when it goes bad.

It can be done, but it will take some work. Here is a little info that I found in one write up about it... The other issue that required some time was mixing different generations of EFI. The truck was 1989, non-HO. The new engine and intake was 1993. Rewiring the truck to use the HO computer was considered, but this task was considered too unwieldy. Instead, the older Renix (non-HO) EFI was retained and fitted to the HO block and intake. To get the engine running, the following tasks had to be done: -Fit the older TPS onto the newer throttle body: the new TPS is not at all compatible with the older EFI. -Re-wire the temperature sensor: on the non-HO block, this sensor is located on the driver's side of the block; the HO block locates this near the thermostat, which will produce a more accurate reading. -Mate the non-HO fuel lines to the HO intake: the HO intake has both the fuel feed and return lines at the front of the fuel rail; the non-HO intake places the fuel feed at the back of the fuel rail, and the return line at the front. -We used all of the older engine brackets to hold the air conditioning compressor, alternator, etc. -We also used the non-HO distributor and flywheel to use the non-HO sensors. This is absolutely necessary, since the non-HO and HO flywheels are keyed differently. -An HO throttle cable had to be used, and a slight modification to the gas pedal was needed. -The HO exhaust header is needed with the HO cylinder head; luckily the non-HO oxygen sensor fits the HO header. -The HO injectors that came with my new block had been sitting too long, and every one had become completely seized, or gummed up from old gas. In the interim, I used Ford Mustang 5.0L injectors, as they are cheap and compatible replacements for Jeep injectors. These injectors will have to be replaced with larger ones. Flow testing various injectors confirmed specifications that were finally located: Stock Jeep non-HO injectors 201 cc/min; 19.7 lbs/hr Stock Mustang 5.0L injectors 194 cc/min; 19 lbs/hr Jeep/Chrysler #33007127 injectors 225 cc/min; 22 lbs/hr Jeep/Chrysler #53030778 injectors 235 cc/min; 23 lbs/hr The flow testing also indicated that Jeep injectors have a very narrow spray pattern whereas the Ford injectors spray at about a 60-degree spray pattern making them a better choice in terms of air/fuel mixture. Further research indicates that Ford injectors that should be compatible with the Jeep injector rail can be found in 22, 24, 30, and 36 lbs/hr flow rates. For this application, injectors in the range of 23-24 lbs/hr seem ideal. The complete article is here... http://www.bc4x4.com/tech/bryce/stroker/install.cfm

Yea...I knew about the soap thing, but I haven't tried it yet. I was hoping that I could figure out why it was doing it and stop it without using such tricks. I have had one of our techs at the dealership check all the pulleys to be sure that the problem is not mechanical, so I know it is coming from the belt. The only thing that he said is the water pump looked like it may have a "little bit" of a wobble in it, so it may have a bearing going bad and is creating a little too much resistance. I know I have the water pump in stock at work, so I guess I will try that next week.

OK...now that everything seems to be OK, the belt is squeeling and won't quit. The hole in the lower radiator hose that started all of this was spraying right on the belt. It was squeeling really bad for a while, and has quieted some, but will not stop completely even after over 30 miles of driving. :nuts: It is perfectly quiet when cold, but starts making noise after just a few miles. :roll:

I work at a Jeep Dealership in the Parts Dept. so it is a Mopar hose (with spring inside) that I put on ;) :cheers: Thank you for thinking of it and posting though. :D

Congrats... :cheers: It is a great feeling to get things paid off isn't it. :D We are down to a couple years on the truck (Dodge Ram) and about 7-8 years on the house and we will be debt free by the time I am 50.

Thanks for all the help. It seems to be OK now...BUT, what a pain in the @$$. It took me 20 minutes to change the hose and 3.5 hours to get it driveable again. :mad: After the 4th test drive, it is finally working properly and the bottle is staying full and un-inflated :jump:

Mine has a rough idle and has been running rich as well. I put a new o2 sensor in it today as it appeared that it had never been replaced before. It is not running rich any more, but the rough idle is still there. I had a bad tapping noise, but that was found to be a broken valve spring. I can still hear a small exhaust leak, but can't find it and I am betting that it is going to soon be time for a header :D . I just wish I could figure out the rough idle issue...

Well...it seems that I did not have enough fluid in it. It finally cooled off enough for me to open the bottle and it was dry as a bone. I filled it again and took it out for another ride and so far it seems to be OK. Iam waiting for it to cool off again so I can look in there and see if there is enough in it yet. I bought some of that new 50/50 pre-mixed coolant/water and that is really nice not to have to try to be sure to balance it yourself ;) ...just pour it in and go.

OK...new development. I took it out for a drive and all seemed to be OK now. I stopped at the gas station after driving for about 15 miles and as I get out of the truck, I hear a very high pitched whining noise so I open the hood and the coolant bottle is puffed up like a balloon :eek: . Any suggestions on why this happened?

OK...I have replaced many radiator hoses in my life, but I have never worked on a cooling system like this. It is the 4.0L with the pressurized bottle mounted back by the firewall. I replaced the lower hose because it ruptured last night, filled the bottle with fluid and ran it for a few minutes to make sure everything was OK...BUT, the temp light came on after about 5 minutes of sitting at idle. I was running it with the cap off so I could see if it needed more fluid...is this wrong to do on this type of system?? I put the cap on, left it sit for about 10 minutes and started it again, but the temp light is still on :roll: .

Yea...the sensor is the first suspect, but with an older vehicle, it is always good to have the pressure checked to be sure. IF it's a 4.0L, you can often have a new set of bearings (rods & mains) put in it and it will increase the pressure if is a bit low.

8) Saweet...keep the pics coming. Gotta love a project :D

Yea...that one is included in the list I made above, but for some reason is still there. This is another one that should be deleted as well... " hochongs "

Agreed....I just had to replace a RF socket because of a ground issue in it. I found one at Autozone that worked, but it is not a "perfect" fit.

The red is actually pretty cool looking, but it just doesn't work in a Blue truck... :yes:

Yea...I gotta get some covers. :D Hopefully I'll come across some gray seats one day that are in good shape, but at least I have buckets now instead of that bench. ;)

It can be tough. I am the Co-Founder and forums admin for FJOA and it can be a job keeping these guys off of the site. We have actually had to go to a method of not allowing the site to automatically register new users, but instead one of the three Admins have to approve every one manually now. It is a PITA, but it works. Here is a list of Spammers that I have found in just a couple minutes of checking for you... Sterjoha57 Abadmoenceder09 Doctormstr Edter54 Eredder7 skenglu DrPlloX These are the ones that I am 100% sure are trouble. :cheers:

I haven't actually used them yet, but the install was easy and they seem to be good quality. I am still waiting for the seats to dry out so I can sit in them ;) . The only part that was a bit of a pain was the buckle ends in the floor. The original bolts are too short to go through and hold them, but I only found that out when I stripped out the first couple threads in the floor trying to put it in. The bolts that they send with the belts worked fine though. I bought the belts and mirrors from this guy on eBay.