BLHTAZ

Yes...I have had three different Swampers and the SSR's were the best all around of the bunch. They are tough off road like all Swampers and they had a good on road ride. They did flat spot when sitting for a while, but it drives out quickly. We did extremely good with mileage as well...getting about 32K out of them.

The radiator that I have found is only $160 shipped...and again, it is a true heavy duty 3 row radiator according to the buider as I have not seen it yet. The build I am going to do will be using all brand new parts, most of it from Mopar, including a new water pump. The average person should be able to do the same as I am for less than $400...possibly around $300 if you do not need a water pump as I will be using a "new" (not reman.) pump from Mopar.

Actually...with the research that I have done, this should be an easy thing to do. The open system uses a sensor in the t-stat housing for the fan sensor, so I will be swapping the t-stat housing to the newer style to use that. I have it all mapped out with all of the needed part numbers from Mopar to do the job...I am just waiting to get the parts all together which will hopefully be in the next couple weeks. I will start a new thread with all the pictures and part numbers of the process when it gets done.

I am back from vacation and should be getting to this soon. The Cherokees were not built with a 3 row radiator, but I have found a source for them. They are a true HD 3 Row radiator, not just a 3 row with smaller tubes that really make no difference. I'll update as soon as I can. :cheers:

I just signed :cheers: I was #4139 8)

Yea...full widths are only about 4" wider than the stock axles, so it is not a real big deal...and here in Florida, they don't care if the whole tire sticks out past the truck 8) . Build it as you planned...just stay away from the 16.5" wheels...they have no safety bead on the inside and can not be aired down if you would like to do so. They are good for mud trucks that don't ever air down, but they are hated by rock crawlers that I know.

Hey Keith...glad to see you made it over here. :cheers:

Saweeeeet!! It is nice to have a good set up. I could not believe the difference when we finally got the YJ done right. It is a lot more fun to be able to drive with finess and not full throttle.

They are installed. I will let you know what the difference is in MPG as soon as I can. We don't drive it a lot, but I will try to drive it more this week as we will be gone on vacation for 10 days starting on 1/20. The MPG before the swap was 15. It definitely cured the rough idle problem. This thing purrs like a kitten now. Since it doesn't have a tach, I had to push on the gas peddle a couple times while sitting at a light to see if it was still running 8) :D . A word of advice to anyone doing the swap...BE SURE TO LUBE THE NEW O-RINGS with just a little bit of grease before trying to install the injectors. They WILL rip :oops: if you push too hard and don't have them lined up perfectly straight. It makes a lot of smoke when raw gas is running down over the exhaust manifold :eek: .

This is me...ready for my Steelers to play in the Super Bowl last year :D

Well, after looking at that article and reading some other info, I have decided to do the conversion, but I am going to compile the info and write a good article on it as the info in the article posted above is out dated and the source given for the radiator is no longer in business. I have already found a source for the 3 row radiator at a good price and I have biult a list of Mopar part numbers of things needed to do it, now I just have to get back from vacation (will be gone from 1/20 - 1/30) and start putting it all together. Can't spend the money until vacation is done ;) .

I will be on here with results as soon as I have them. I am not looking for performance gains...I have a leaking issue on one injector and a bit of a rough idle problem as well, so I hope this cures both.

I got these... :D He only lives about 3 hours south of me, so I should have them in just a couple days.

Well...I opted for a used set that I just won on eBay for $10.50. I'll give them a try and if it doesn't work out, I just go ahead and spend the money on the reman. units. I just couldn't pass up taking the chance for that price.

Yep...I found a set that looks just like that on eBay for $95 shipped. They are "completely remanufactured" with new filters, o-rings and caps.

Are you saying that you used the Design 3 Injectors like this... They look a bit different than the others, so I want to be sure before I buy anything.

Yes, actually I have been told about that by another member on here. He is a fellow Floridian and a friend of mine through a local Jeep Forum here. He said he has done it and is willing ot help me do it when I am ready. :D I will keep track of that article though too...thank you! :cheers:

I guess I am going to need another coolant bottle now. There are no cracks or anything, but after driving and getting it heated up good, it starts hissing and spitting water out from around the cap. I have done the point the nose down and pull the temp sender out of the head thing and all is good with the coolant level...it just doesn't seem to want to hold pressure since it got all puffed up the other day. I alos tightened up the belt a little bit and put soap on it, but it still will not completely quit squealing. I'm gonna give that another week of driving and see what happens. Maybe it will work that coolant off and quiet down.

8) Cool...I'll see if I can win them then :cheers: .

These are the ones I am watching on eBay. Are they the ones that you are talking about. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayI ... 534&rd=1,1

Yes, that's what they should have in them. Just FYI... If you have a limited slip differential, it will need a friction modifier additive with the 75-90, but if you were to run a 75-140 or 80-140 Synthetic fluid, no modifier is needed.

I know that the exhaust manifolds are not interchangeable between the HO & non-HO, but I am not sure about the intake. Try some google searching on this too... ;) I know nothing of the cam situation as I was never an internal engine tech in my years of being a tech.

Glad to hear it. I think that has happened to all of us at least once...and a lot of us more than that :D .

Yea...sorry for not being specific...it is the whole motor. My long post above has the info on doing the head only swap. ;)

Thanks guys. I'll keep diggin' and see what happens. I may go ahead and get some of the Ford injectors and see what happens. Worst case is I have to sell them and change again which is not a big deal as this vehicle is not a DD. Anyone else with input/advise, please keep it coming :cheers: