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I've been trying to find a new front axle for an MJ 4.0 4x4 5spd (http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=15793) I found a Dana 30 3.07 front axle from a 2000 TJ. Will it fit? Any modifications required? Can I use the brakes and stuff from it? Thanks!!! :D

Is it ok to mix gear ratios front to back? Or do they have to match?

Yeah, Jeepsticker.com is definitely a great place to order from. Good prices, really fast shipment, and friendly service.

Thanks for the input. After thinking about it, I think a parts XJ might be the way to go if I can find someone to do the swap for me. I have a 95 HO sitting in my garage, but from what I've read, that would be a bigger effort than swapping in another Renix motor.

I'm getting some blowby, and I was thinking I might like a newer motor in my MJ. What do you think are my best options to freshen her up a bit? Here they are as I see them: 1. New 4.0 from one of the "performance" engine sellers, like Golen or Hesco. I don't know if they sell them setup for Renix or not. 2. New 4.0 from the dealer 3. Get a shop to rebuild existing motor - anybody know one? 4. Try to find a low miles junkyard motor - anyone know one? I don't want to spend a lot of $$ and effort putting a higher mileage motor in. 5. New motor from one of the more discounted motor places, like http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayI ... 0145636648 6. Other options?? My problem then becomes getting said motor installed. Does anybody know a shop that would do it reasonably in New England? Or maybe someone that wants to make a few bucks on the side?

I have a 46 gallon bow front freshwater setup. It has a freshwater stingray and two fish I don't know how to spell. Sounds like OO-ARE-OO. I also have a 20(?) gallon vertical tank that has two Whites tree frogs.

I asked this same question a couple months ago. Here is that thread: http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/view ... ght=welder Based on that and everything I read, I ended up getting a Lincoln 135. So far, I've found it pretty easy to use. After not very long with it, I would feel comfortable doing floorboards, and a lot of other stuff like that.

Its OEM from a Cherokee. I've got a gray one, with speakers and dome light if you are interested. Shoot me a PM if you might want it and I'll send you pics.

A week or so ago I asked about my oil pressure, here: http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/view ... highlight= Well, I got a mechanical gauge, hooked it up, and found out that my pressure isn't low at all. Its high. The mechanical gauge is reading 55 psi at idle. I just changed the oil. I used 6 quarts of castrol 10w30 to set a level field and got the same results. Like I said in my other post, my 99XJ sits at 30-40psi - 55 seems too high. Is it? What is normal for the Renix? What could be causing high oil pressure? Could this be related to the unreasonable amount of oil that wants to come out of my PCV system? For posterity, Eagle was right. I had measured the pressure when the oil was cold, so it was a bit higher. Once the truck warmed up, the pressure was around 40psi, which is right where I wanted it.

You can get the headliner material at Joanne Fabrics, if you have those in your area. I think it was around $6.00 a yard there. They had gray, black, and blue at mine. If you've ever seen the headliner on ebay that is custom made for the comanche for about $115 - its actually just a piece of non-corrugated cardboard that is cut to fit with Joanne Fabric type headliner attached with spray adhesive.

Thanks!

The other day my manche died electrically on me while on the road (radio off, etc). Nothing would happen when turning the key. After wiggling some wires around the starter relay, I got it started and limped it home. I took all the wires off of that relay, cleaned them, replaced one connector, and applied dielectric grease. I put the thing back together, and it doesn't even try to fire the starter. I can see all the fusable links are still in tact, so I'm suspicious of the starter relay itself. Does anyone know how to test one? Advance doesn't carry the part, but I found it at Rock Auto. I don't want to order one if I don't need it though. Its gonna cost me $40.

My SRT has ticked like that since it was new. I've always taken it to be the 52lb injectors firing.

The CPS itself is kind of a pain to get to. It is on the top of your transmission housing. I suggest unplugging the harness and putting some dielectric grease in there, then trying it again before you replace it. I would be surprised if the 92 CPS would work - and its enough of a pain to get at that I wouldn't want to do it 3 times for the $33.00 that a new CPS costs.

The EGR is on the drivers side. It consists of a solenoid mounted to the drivers side fender that has a couple vacuum lines and a plug going to it, then there is a valve thing that bleeds exhaust into your intake manifold. The whole thing that diverts air into the airbox from over the exhaust wouldn't do it. Thats kind of....optional to help trucks warm up faster and stuff. I suppose there could be a leak there though. Thats all you would do to check for spark. Just pull a plug, lay it on something metal, and crank. You can see a little spark in the plug. If you aren't getting spark, I would suspect CPS. At the back of your intake manifold is a plug where one wire goes down towards the top of your tranny. For starters, unplug it, clean it out, maybe use some dielectric grease, plug it back in, and try it. I think CPS is one of the more common causes of no spark.

I'm not sure what you mean

A few things that are easy to check: 1. Vacuum line should go from MAP sensor to bottom hole on side of TB. Is it in tact? Is the MAP sensor plugged in? 2. Check that your TPS and IAC sensors on the side of the TB are plugged in. 3. Check that the vacuum lines for your EGR system are in tact. Should go from intake manifold to side of solenoid, then from solenoid to a little plastic disk thing. 4. Vacuum line from intake to fuel pressure regulator? I had very similar symptoms recently, and it was due to messed up EGR vacuum lines.

There isn't a vacuum line to the TPS is there? The idling thing started after I did the following all at once: -Removed TB, cleaned it out. There was a lot of gunk in there. -Changed airbox. Replaced PCV line to airbox with a breather on the valve cover. -EGR vacuum lines were disintegrated. Replaced all the EGR lines with new vacuum hose. -Plugged several existing vacuum leaks. As near as I can tell, there aren't any vacuum leaks now. I was wondering if when I was cleaning out my TB maybe some gunk got into the TPS or IAC, but I wanted to know if that symptom was typical of either of those sensors failing.

Question 1: When my truck is in park, it idles at around 1500rpm. If I put it in gear, its more like 1000 rpm. It seems unusually loud at idle, so I'm thinking 1500 rpm is too high. Is this likely to be TPS or IAC? Question 2: I recently put in a full gauge cluster and swapped out necessary sensors. Everything works, except my oil pressure gauge isn't how I expected it, and I'm wondering if this is normal behavior. When I start the truck, it climbs to around 18psi. While driving it doesn't go any higher than maybe 22psi. If I floor it while I'm driving, the needle really doesn't move much, nor does it fall too far at idle. It isn't low on oil, nor is it leaking any. Could this be an actual oil pressure problem? Is it more likely that I have the wrong sender in there? By contrast, my 99 XJ sits at 40psi and the needle moves a fair amount if I go from idle to floored. Thanks for your help! For posterity, this ended up being the wrong sending unit. When I checked the pressure with a mechanical gauge, it was fine.

Heh...yeah. Its also got a fresh coat of wax on it. People who put winches on their lawn mowers are the same type who armor all the wheels on everything.

In the manual for my SRT, it says to put a small dab of RTV on each corner of the gasket and place the gasket onto the valve cover. I've been using this process on my Jeeps, and it seems to work pretty good.

Its just for fun, not supposed to be practical. I wasn't like "Jeez, I really need a winch on my lawn mower - I don't know how I've gotten along without one." It has no problem pulling my MJ across my driveway and into my garage though. Of course, I could have pushed it just as easily - but that is waaaayyy less fun.

I didn't say it was for a Comanche, or even a truck for that matter. At the end of last summer, I picked up a bumper for my tractor, but never installed it. Then, a couple months ago my wife got me an ATV winch for my birthday. I don't have an ATV, so it wasn't until this weekend that I thought of the perfect use for these two components. I picked up some angle iron and plate at home depot, and welded a winch platform onto the bottom of the bumper. I think it came out pretty clean! Here are some pictures of my new Comanche recovery vehicle:

which bumper is that? The westin one?

Yeah, I agree. Maybe a group buy scenario would help? Like, see how many people will commit to actually buy them, maybe give a deposit or something?