aaronbtxnc

Decided to pull my carpet and tackle that hole I found last weekend when I finally decided to look up from the bottom... Got the seat and carpet pulled before breakfast (I'm eating it now) and am about to (hopefully if it's good) rob the metal I need from the parts truck.

A limited slip is no different than a full locker on ice. There isn't enough tire traction to overcome the clutches in the LSD, so on ice it acts just like it's locked -- because it is. Nevertheless, I want a LSD in any rear-wheel drive street vehicle I own. It's the difference between getting home in a winter storm, or parking at the bottom of some hill in the middle of nowhere. is the exact answer I was looking for. Thanks! :bowdown:

MJs have CAD, right? :oops:

So lunch box lockers are like the Spartan ones? If I put one of those up front, when in 2wd are they still locked? Will back tires scrub around corners with that type? I'd guess they would as the outside ones still have to travel farther. I don't want to eat up my tires 35? days a year for the 1? days I may be driving in the snow, if that many. I'm also looking into option of the explorer 8.8 with better brakes and LSD. Do these come in 3.55 gearing? I see one from a F150, would that work or only Explorer? So I'm kinda leaning towards LSD (put into the 35 or swap axles) rear and locker up front as long as the locker's like it's not there when in 2wd.

And if so with what? Kinda new to all this, in the past have counted on the wife's Subaru in the snow, will now be depending on the MJ. I live in a very hilly area and deliver pizzas so will be going everywhere. Set up right now is 4.0, manual tranny, D35 front and rear, 3.07 gearing, planning on an axle swap to 3.55 from the parts truck, probably do this mod before/during swap. Do you guys think I will need lockers? Front and back or just front or just back? I'd assume to maintain steering I'd want something like this up front but would love to get by with something a little less pricey... Auburn Gear ECTED positraction and Locker for Dana 30 with 27 spline axles, 3.54 and down The Auburn ECTED is an electrically-operated posi/locker combination. When the unit is disengaged, it is a cone/clutch operated limited slip. with the push of a button the unit engages for full lockup to provide full power to both tires. This unit comes with all associated parts and hardware for operation. Auburn offers a one year warranty against manufacturing defects on these units. All Auburn Gear positractions come with a bottle of friction modifier. When the truck's not in 4wd if I went with something like this instead... Spartan Locker for Dana 30 differential with 27 spline axles, includes heavy-duty cross pin shaft The Spartan Locker, by USA Standard Gear, provides reliable traction at a low cost. Give your vehicle great traction and save some cash. Choose a Spartan Locker for better traction. The Spartan locker by USA standard gear is a mechanical locker that replaces the spiders in a standard case. The Spartan locker's design does not use the thrust washers and has a revolutionary spring and pin design that makes installation a snap! The couplers and drivers are made from 9310 steel, for added strength. Each Spartan locker carries a one year warranty against defect. Does not fit Std. JK Carrier. Use YC D706008 would the front wheels still be locked? That's something I don't think I'd want if so. Could I get by with something like this in the back though... Spartan Locker for Model 35 with 27 spline axles and a 1.560" carrier, includes heavy-duty cross pin The Spartan Locker, by USA Standard Gear, provides reliable traction at a low cost. Give your vehicle great traction and save some cash. Choose a Spartan Locker for better traction. The Spartan locker by USA standard gear is a mechanical locker that replaces the spiders in a standard case. The Spartan locker's design does not use the thrust washers and has a revolutionary spring and pin design that makes installation a snap! The couplers and drivers are made from 9310 steel, for added strength. Each Spartan locker carries a one year warranty against defect. And are these something I can install myself (with your guys' help of course ;) ) This will be an on down the road kinda project (probably fall), but last night my wife was hounding me about how much more I'm going to put into this truck so I'd like to manage her expectations in a realistic sort of way.

What exactly do you mean by cabin? Do you want to take the whole cab off or remove all the seats and interior plastic trim and carpets and dash?

... is what I did this past weekend, and got started on my abnormally difficult seat swap this evening thread link

It's gonna take some work but I am gonna make it work. :wrench: The rail on the far left is the passenger bench rail, I am going to have to remove the stuff on top in addition to removing the mounting brackets (already done). I will then have to remove the XJ brackets from the bottom of the bucket rail as well as the two mounting tabs on the top of the bucket rail and attach them to the old bench rail, then attach the MJ mounting brackets. I'm hoping to get all that tomorrow after work, we'll see how far I get, everything ends up taking about twice as long as I think it should...

And if one did forget to grab that will it just sit there ok or no? I'm assuming it'll attach at the front the same as the gear shifter cover thingy with the bench.

Don't you also have to remove the spare tire jack and exhaust hanger towards the rear of the bed? And remove the parking brake bracket thingy in the middle of the bed?

I like my Toyota Yaris 5 spd hatchback pretty good, I deliver pizzas so need a DD that's very fuel efficient, I average 40 MPG and am now at 98,500 miles. It's not the funnest car in the world to drive but it's reliable, safe and efficient. Mods are limited to stickers and vent guards.

Thank you and thank you again, I am going to try using the original bench passenger rail to replace the inner driver bucket rail. I will update if it works or not.

Anyone? The bottom pic is the bench passenger side rail, the top pic is the bucket driver side inner rail.

There's a red XJ just up for sale a bit down the road form where I work on 321 in Hudson area (between Hickory and Lenoir). It's 4wd and red is all I can tell you about it aside that it's on the left hand side of the road (going North) just past the CVS stoplight, I think the place is called Crazy Mike's, there's mowers and camper tops there all the time, this is the first vehicle I've seen out there. If you're interested I could go by and get the number for you.

Spent about 6 hours (from 5 pm til 11pm) working on a bed swap. I removed tail lights from driver and parts truck, removed gas tank skid plate from both trucks, removed gas tank from both trucks (first one was a bit of a challenge with me stuck holding the almost half full tank for nearly 40 minutes while my friends were trying to figure out what was still holding it :mad: , turns out that just loosening the clamps on the filler neck and vent lines isn't enough, you need to go ahead and get the hoses off the metal part :doh: , second one took about 5 minutes), removed exhaust hanger and spare jack from parts truck, and removed 6 of 8 bed bolts from parts truck and what I thought were the other two bed bolts but as soon as I got them out I thought they weren't, and they weren't, they were the two bolts just ahead or behind maybe the back bed bolts that have to be accessed through the frame, I have to get a longer extension for my ratchet to get these last 2 out. I only got about half way though the swap, it'll be Saturday before I can get back to it and hopefully done. I wish swapping beds was as easy as on my Ranger was, 6 bolts from the top, disconnect taillights and disconnect fuel filler neck and pull it off. My arse is dragging this morning! Be watching your computers for questions I may run in to Saturday morning/afternoon.

I realize this is old but may have an answer I was searching for. Is this true, if so I am soooo happy I didn't buy that expensive kit yesterday from teamcherokee. I am definitely trying this tonight with the inner wipes from the parts truck. Do you have to remove those little metal tabs on the inside of the outer track or are they needed to hold the "new" ones on as well.

:agree:

is worth a thousand words. can I take this rail and replace that bent one?

I have a beige/tan one for sale in Taylorsville, NC 28681, nor sure if I'm in your acceptable range or not, PM me if interested.

1. I started college to be a band director and somehow ended up with a chemistry degree working as a wood coatings chemist and a minor in Spanish. 2. I have owned my MJ for like maybe 4 months now and have totally been bitten by the bug, but I guess y'all knew that by my being here. 3. I deliver pizzas part time and have been doing that at since I was 18 (I'm about to turn 34) and probably will never quit. If they'd just offer benefits I'd quit the regular job though... 4. My first vehicle was a 69 Ford pick-up with the 3-speed column shift in 2wd that probably saw more trails in the year I drove it than my MJ will ever see (I've since learned to take care of my toys). 5. I've been a Deadhead for about 4 years now, a little late is better than never.

No, not the brackets, the slider rail that mounts to the brackets.

So I found a donor 2 door XJ about an hour from my house at work yesterday. I went home to get my "car" tools and money then headed out there. Well I get there and I start trying to remove the seats but the driver front nuts and bolts are rusted really bad. I didn't think to take any PB Blaster so ask the guy if he has anything, all he has is Rem Oil, so we spray those and let it soak in while I hit the passenger side. No problems there, no problems getting the console out, come back to the drivers side and get the back nuts off no problem either. Well the front ones are so rusted that the nut's corners round when trying to get them off and I didn't bring my vice grips so I ask the guy if he has any, he says hold on, I think I do, he goes inside and comes back with channel locks, argh. Should've stopped there and went back to finish the removal with vice grips but not wanting to have to spend half my Saturday going back out there I start trying to weaken the mounting plates by flexing them back and forth. Something pops! It was the spot welds holding the outer rail (track) to the bracket, good, that's progress. He then produces a huge pry bar and I manage to pop the rivet ahead of the now broken spot welds, half way there! So now we have even more flex with only one corner still attached I'm thinking the last one won't be too bad. Well I notice that the inner rail is bending more than the bracet/spot weld/rivet area is. We go at it with the pry bar and finally find an angle where I can get some leverage but the danged rail is bending, so be it. I got the rail out along with a pretty good sized chunk of the bracket, but now to the question finally, the rail is kinda mangled/twisted on the front part. I'm going to try to get it straightened out with a mallet and vice and vice grips and whatever else I can come up with, but could I use the rail off a bench seat to just replace that rail that's mangled? I don't have my bench out yet so can't compare, I'm thinking the one off the passenger side should work hopefully, I'm in the middle of a big wood clearing project and can't give up the truck to work on it right now, but am trying to figure out if I'm going to need to get a new rail/slider track thingy or what before i get into it half way so I don't get stuck with a truck with no seats for a week! Suppose worse comes to worse I can just have a drivers seat if I cannabilize the rail from the passenger side... Thanks for any tips, Aaron

Well, time to buy a new toy that will be needed. Recomendations? I see them from about 20 up to 150 and more. What torque range will I need to do axle swap, possible rear main seal replacement, etc. to the MJ?

Anything that comes on my property (or tries to come in my vehicle) uninvited! :peek:

OK, I just did a search for axel swap and couldn't find anything useful to me, well went back and searched axle swap and am wading through the results for a guide. How exactly do I go about this? I have done brakes before and tinkered quite a bit on an old VW (removed and replaced engine among many other things) but have never tried to remove an axle. Is this something a pretty green shadetree mechanic can handle (I can follow detailed instructions, just can't find them) or should I pay someone who really knows what they're doing or anyone in Western NC wanna come walk me through it for some beers :cheers: and gas money? I have a Hayne's manual at home, would this be covered in that? How many shop hours would this run at a Jeep friendly and knowledgable garage? If I go the garage route I guess I'd have to get both trucks there unless I could at least pull the donor's parts myself, and hell, if I can unbolt it I can rebolt it onto the other I guess, I really don't wanna have to rent that danged tow dolly again, although to the garage is mostly downhill rather than the mostly uphill I drug it home. Thanks yet again guys!