Zebvance

a few pics on the ramp after a night wheel. What a fun night!!!!

a few pics on the ramp after a night wheel. What a fun night!!!!

Can somebody post a pictures, I'm not sure I understand what y'all are talking about. A soft top for the bed?

Also the rear main could be part of the problem and oil pan gasket. I have a new oil pan cause mine is rusted and I bought a brand new fel-pro rubber gasket for it too. But I want to replace the rear main at the same time I do that. After research on replacing the rear main I would like to find a professional to do the job. I want to do it once and never have to do it again and from what I can tell if your a beginner at doing it, it might take a couple try's.

Thanks guys! I started looking at the valve cover more and the oil may be coming from the oil fill cap and the two CCv hose grommet. None of them have a good seal. Just replaced the back hose about 10 mins ago. The front is new. But I need to get it to seal good on the valve cover some how. And as far as the oil fill cap goes it looks like its just old and dry rotted so I need a new one that has a fresh gasket on it. I start at those places.

zeb vance college station,tx 1988 comanche swb pioneer

aluminum

I was driving the mj around today and I was cruising about 45 and it just turned off on me. I came to a stop and it started right up again and the problem didnt repeat. What caused this? Also I just replaced my valve cover gasket about 1500 miles ago with a high dollar felpro rubber gasket and now all the sudden it is leaking again at the back of the head. I checked the torque specs and it was torqued correctly to the right inch pounds. I gave each bold a extra turn or two and it is still seeping. Any thought? Go get another gasket and replace it again?

Next to tackle, STEERING!!!!!!!!! AHHHH so much play in the wheel. and here comes the flow of parts :) steering stabilizer and bracket Image Not Found 99 Durango Steering gear box Image Not Found JCR inner steering box brace Serious Off Road Under the knuckle 1-Ton steering!!!! Image Not Found Image Not Found

took the truck for a nice ride on a beautiful day and it did great!!!! snapped a few pictures :) Man, I love this truck!!!!!

so after all that it still gets kinda warm, so I'm going to install the electric fan I have in addition to keeping the stock mechanical. Also I'm going to install the datsun louvers soon. I was worried that the head gasket might be gone after it was still getting a tad bit warm but ran a pressure test and it all checked out good! so as far as it seems I'm just not getting enough air flow through the grill because the winch,lights,and bumper is restricting it to much.

and here it is successfully running!!!!

and this is what happened after I buttoned everything up and started it......haha opps forgot to tighten a few things up...

so after sitting on the clearance problem for about a week and talking to a few different people, I was told that its very close but it should be enough room as long my motor mounts are solid. Which i just replaced with the iron man 4x4 mounts and they are VERY solid. But I was still rubbing the fan on the fan shroud also because the motor mounts lifted the engine 1/4 inch up. However I just wanted to be better safe than sorry. so my solution to this was to drill new holes and modify the radiator support bracket to move the whole radiator/fan shroud Assembly back about a inch. This is how I did it. First cut out the clearance on the bracket in order to push the radiator up under it. then I made the brackets And here is the radiator support trimmed, painted, and the brackets installed on it.

got everything bolted on and sitting in there and ran into some serious problems with clearance between the fan clutch and new thicker CFS radiator.

now its time for the install. first I pulled off the high flow thermostat and drilled 2 holes it it to make it easier to burp the closed loop system and keep air pockets from getting trapped.

here is the new radiator with the trans cooler hooked up on it.

new HD fan clutch and new 3 row CFS all metal radiator also just came in. old radiator and clutch beside the new.

New trans oil lines, fan shroud, serp belt, upper rad hose, power steering lines came in today. Image Not Found

been a while since a update so it is about that time. truck started to give me some over heating problems so i started stocking up on more parts.

So I want to rip up the carpets in my my and paint the floors with rhino liner of some sort. However from looking at the bottom of the floorboards from under the truck i know there is rust and they need to be repaired first. I saw some replacement floor pans somewhere for around 100 which isnt bad at all. So my questions are how much would it run to take it to a body shop and install them. I can not do it my self, I don't have acesse to a welder or have the skill with one to do it. I also want it done RIGHT.

It is a great upgrade if it is done "RIGHT". you have to account for the amount of current that fan pulls. You can hook it up and the stock electrical system will run it but It puts a tremendous load on it and can very easily cause a electrical fire because of the high current pull of that fan. Not sure of the specs on your alt since it is a 2.5 but i know I have a 61 amp alternator. Also I know that the taurus fan pulls around 50 amps at start up. as you can see that is a lot of load on the system, when they designed mine to only use 61 amps max if that running every accessory. so bottom line. if you are going to do it i would run a bigger alternator off a durango maybe. I believe they are just about a direct bolt on and are 136 amps and replace the grounds and some of the main power wires with thicker stuff. Prob around 8-4 gauge.

I was told that it turns on when its time to replace your o2 sensor. How would you reset it if that's the case?