Zebvance

We'll got the replacement dana 30 back from sand blasting. Makes it look 100 times better. Going to go ahead and order these things for it. Xrf ball joints Poly sway bar bushings Moog hubs bearings Us standard 4340 shafts. Spicer u joints Artec truss with Jonny joint uca mounts Thinking about getting C gussets and a stronger trac bar mount. I already have a 4.10 center section that I'm going to swap in. I also will be swapping over all the new parts I just put on the old bent d30. They have about 50 miles on them. Calipers, brake pads, cross drilled and slotted rotors, and ODC diff cover. I know I'm spending a lot of money to build up a not very good axle. But after already swapping the 8.8 in I wanted to stay the stock width as the Dana 30 ( or very close to it atleast.) so my only solution to that is a narrow track waggy d44, which I have been looking for for the past 6 months and been unsecessfull for finding one at a reasonable price. Or a tj rubicon d44, which are going for 1000-1400 on craigslist. I'm not going to do that either. the last option being narrowing a axle, and that's something I don't want to bother with. So the game plan is rock this and the 8.8 for a couple years (hopefully). Then when I'm out of school I'll be able to drop some serious cash on tons and build those. Here is the powder coated axle. Got it done locally at Texas truck rigging. These are the same guys that powdercoated my bumpers and I do not wish to do business with them ever again. Terrible customer service, and they are a bunch of dick holes. I thought they gave me a pretty decent price when I dropped it off with the sway bar to get done. $60.00 then took them 3 1/2 weeks to do what they told me was 45 mins worth of work and then they b*@$£ at me saying that I ripped them off and they made no money off it because they quoted me to cheap?!?!? Anyway. Rant over...

Ended up bending the tubes on my dana 30. Thought it was ball joints. Got it checked out and they told me the would have to get and install offset cambered ball joints to fix the negative camber. Then told me but that still won't put it back into the right camber specs, it will still be off by a degree or so. So that tells me it's deff bent. And all the measurements have told me that that the short tube it bent any way. So I was looking for a waggy narrow trac d44. And can't find one. But I did find a unmolested low mileage tj Dana 30 for dirt cheap so I just picked it up to get it back on the road quicker. I know I know. I should hold out for a stronger axle but I don't have the time for that.

The 92 for sure. 4.0 HO is my main reason. This renix I got is great but wish it had more power for what I'm doing.

I think they were aired up. I'll have to post the pictures tomorrow

Oh ok I see. So here is my next question. Should I get a set of stronger shafts for it or not bother?

if you have answered the pole please list if you wheel it or not and what ended up breaking on it

First off let me start off with some info. I have a 1988 comanche 4.0,auto, 4x4 short box. I bent the front tubes on the dana 30 somehow. Not exactly sure when it happened. I was looking for a waggy dana 44 and have not had luck finding one and came across a lp dana 30 out of a 97 tj for dirt cheap. I picked up a never used OEM lp dana 30 center section with 4,10 gears to swap in for $100. This hasnt even have tubes attached or welded to it. I'm going to pick up a truss, ball joints, and u joints for it and then I'm putting it under the truck. For the rear I just put in a 96 disk break 31 spline 8,8 out of a explorer. I have serious offroads long arms, claytons adjustable track bar, quick disco sway bar links, I'm going to put on in dec with some 5100's and rubicon express 7.5 inch coils with a .75 spacer. The rear is already SOA with lift shackles and sitting at about 8.5 inches. Now, before everyone starts bashing because Its going to be to tall, let me tell you what I'm building this rig for. I live on the coast of Texas and it is a beach rig. It is built for that. Where we go fishing is on a narrow island that is 23 miles long. there is one road on and off it at its eastern most point. The rig is made to get me all the way down to western point and back. I encounter some deep cuts some times doing this as the shore is constantly changing. On to the point of this tread. I came across a guy that has some super swamper 39x12,15,r15s. However they measure a 1/4 inch over 36 inches. He sent me pictures of measurements. They have about 80 percent tread on them and are in great shape.He wants $500.00. remember i will be on a forgiving surface. when offroading. Do yall think i shoud try it? Also will I rub with 36s and 8 inches of lift?

For link you posted I'm showing the whole kit for 35 bucks. That would be both uppers and both lowers. Is this correct. Because if so that is dirt cheap for a decent part.

Looked these up and called a distributer to get a quote. Was about 140 for the set. Still pretty expensive. What is your experience with them?

I got a new dana 30 and I'm going to do the ball joints before I put it on. I see kits on ebay for upper and lowers $50 buck or leass out the door. Anybody have experience with these? From how cheap they are my gut is telling me to turn away. Any way I would like to get some decent ones but I don't want to spen $100 plus on a set. Any recomendations?

What color, 2 door or 4

I'm in college station, I go to Austin every once in a while.

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I think you've figured out exactly what's causing the wobble. Better get to tightening and loctite-ing the bolts or replacing the column [which is what I did with a freshly rebuilt one... easier IMO]. You don't want to have something catastrophic to happen while you're out enjoying a drive. where did you happen to get a rebuilt column?

Well I ended up buying the push start kit. http://www.ebay.com/itm/290789202248?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649 I plan on installing it and figuring out how to disable the steering lock. Also Ill wire a kill switch somewhere

Does any body have a write up on installing a push button start on a mj?

Does any body know how to disable the steering lock and trans shift lock?

Oh and sorry for any misspelling, I'm on my phone.

Need some help guys. This has happened to me before but stopped and now it's back. I'll put the key in and start it and then the luck cylinder eats stuck in the on position. I can't turn the truck off or anything. I have to pull the coil wire to turn the truck off, the fiddle with the key with a par of pliers for a few minutes before I can get it out. Sometimes it doesn't do it at all but all the sudden it started doing it almost every time. It's a PIMA! Also sometimes it will get stuck in the off position. And won't relase the key. Anyway, it has done this before but stop. A while ago my steering column was really loose, do I pulled it all apart and tightened up the four screws that had backed out and made the column loose, then I put the column back together. Did I do something wrong there? Or is the problem the lock cylinder it's self? Now on to my last question. Can I just make this thing freaking push start so I never have to deal with this problem any more? What would I need in order to do that? That option looks more appealing to me anyway. The rig is driven about 3000 miles a year and sits in the garage most of the time. Help me out.

American rebel out law is the brand I think

On the the 8.8 install! I blew up my 35 mall crawlin to hard so I picked up this bad boy. 1996 for explorer 8.8 31 spline disk brake. factory 4.10 geared for $200 pulled.

And last I put on some new calipers, Extended brake lines, Zinc plated Cross Drilled and Slotted Rotors and some 1.5 inch spacers. And then the steering stabilizer

and put the new diff cover on and some paint.

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Next it was on to install the new Durango steering box. This box is a bit bigger and beefier and just needs some sort of spacer to bolt right up. I also got a steering box brace and but it on also. The same time I did this I installed the new power steering pump, lines, and bracket.