Biotex

ding ding ding! winner winner chicken dinner... Thank you! That was exactly what I needed to know :bowdown:

Looks like it didn't sell. I wish I had it.... I make biodiesel, so any diesel Jeeps get my attention. I had a CJ10-A with an SD33 in it, and that was a fun truck after I merged it with Waggy axles and a CJ rear tub made into a pick up on 35's :thumbsup:

The gearshift knob picture shows it as a 4 speed, but they keep touting it is a 5 speed???

I have an uncle that lives near Canton, and he comes this way every two weeks or so, so it is possible to get heavier parts here for free. I need to convert to 4x4 :thumbsup:

I figured search tempest, as that seems to me to be the best one, but wanted to double check. Thanks.

Clay, Above your icon place holder it says jeeper. As you get more posts, it will change to "can spell comanche" like mine. When it does, you will need to correct the spelling of comanche in your signature. Just sayin! :=)

I've been driving Jeeps my whole life, so DW is not new to me. First time comanche owner though, so I knew to check the track bar. Mine was exactly as you described also. Since it was new to me and wouldn't pass inspection yet, I never had a chance to get up to speed. Just some around the block kind of test drives. What I have noticed in my TJ, is that DW only happens at a speed of 45 ish. What speed did yours happen at?

Ouch! Sounds like murphy at work... Can't remember how long it was in before I got around to changing it. Maybe two weeks tops. I only needed to use one once though. The metal ones look better for sure.

What is the best search engine to use? Would like to be able to filter out grand Cherokees when I search for an XJ, and be able to look for multiple years. etc...

I think it is called a striker or something like that. It is a post that is screwed into the b pillar half way up so the latch can secure to it.

Yeah, they were prone to do that if left in too long. Seems the rubber would shrink as it aged and work its way loose. Hence my suggestion as only a temporary fix.

In the electrical repair manual on page 75 there is a chart with all the connector end views. You can match up any connector and see what it is.

I remember seeing a rubber freeze plug that you stick in the hole and then tighten a center nut down and it tightens up the plug. Might be a temporary fix for you until you can get it repaired with some nice brass plugs. I used to carry them in my CJ spare parts box as a J.I.C.

I hear a lot of wind noise coming from the top of the door. I can see daylight between the rubber and the top of the door frame, so I'm certain that is the cause. From the outside, I can tell by the body lines that the door itself is positioned perfectly in the opening, and no sagging hinges. After studying it a bit, it seems that if I push in on the door harder (even though it is latched shut), it closes up the gap. The rubber is very soft and pliable with no tears. So my question is on how to adjust the door so it closes tighter. Do I loosen the part of the latch that looks like a big bolt and is screwed into the B pillar and move it inboard some? Or is there a better adjustment method? Oh, and what the heck is a warning point under my icon?

Sure thing, I'm in no hurry. It is a 420 mile round trip to the salvage yards, so needless to say I don't get to go much. I was going to purchase a whole parts xj so I could do the 4x4 conversion, but they are always 500 plus miles away... Not sure where whitehouse is, i'll have to look that one up if there really is one:-)

Have you ever seen montaliner or u-pol raptor rolled on? looks like it was sprayed, and you can tint it whatever color you want. It is not a rough finish at all, but looks great. I would do fenders, grill, tub etc... in a heart beat and never worry about Texas pinstriping again.

Alpine, Texas 1988 base model comanche 2wd I need to update my guage cluster to get rid of the idiot lights. A tachometer would be awesome. Need a set of visors and the clips to hold them in place. Need the rocker switches and the label behind them for the fog lights.

Just as a followup... Symptom: Activate left turn signal -Left turn signals work as expected. Activate right turn signals -Right turns signal work, but also the left ones blink dimmly. Left parking light also lights. What I did... Cleaned all grounds with no sucess. Checked all sockets for good ground. Found right front turn socket iffy so I replaced it. Did not fix the problem. Figured it had to be in the multifunction switch inside the column. Replaced it, no change... Took half the dash apart looking for chaffed wires or anything out of the ordinary. Can't find anything. All wires are in pristine original unmolested condition. The only thing I could find was the "I" terminal on the back of the headlight switch got hot at some point and melted the connector. I ordered a new switch and connector. While waiting for the parts to arrive, and at wits end, I decided to take every bulb out of its socket and coat them with di-electric grease, and recheck the sockets. What made me do this is because I unplugged the headlight switch completely and still had the same problem. So I'm thinking hmmm! that new switch ain't gonna fix it like I was hoping... So, I decided to unplug the front harness at the connector just behind the driver side headlight. I wanted to apply some grease to it as well anyway. When I tried the right turn signal with that harness unplugged, the problem was still there. So I'm thinking I just narrowed it down to the rear sockets. I took the right side rear lense off yet again, and removed the bulbs. I'm checking the terminals when it finally dawned on me that there are two terminals at the bottom of the socket, and only terminal on the end of the bulb. Its the wrong darned bulb type 1156 or something like that, and it was shorting across the two terminals inside the socket. I didn't know an 1156 would screw into an 1157 socket, but I guess they do. I installed the correct bulb, and problem solved! 3 days of troubleshooting and replacing parts, and it was something simple.... Heven't we all been there before?

Holy crap I can't believe how bad it was. The frame side ball joint could have let loose at any moment. Sure is a good feeling to know it is 500% safer to drive now. 220k miles. Not bad....

Look at the section called the pub. The pinned section...

Update: Added grounds, no change... So I pulled the headlight switch to test the connections per the FSM. The test for terminals B2 & I show that I should have ohms (continuity) between the two when the switch is in parking lights position and the switch is turned CW. I have no continuity between the two, so hopefully when my new switch gets here, it will fix it. BTW, terminal I is the one that melted. Not sure yet what terminal I feeds, but will shortly. It is an orange wire.

Yes it has the pigtail, I just cropped it off when I merged the two photos. I was just interested in the connectors. That picture is the same one you posted from rockauto. I just flipped it 180° so the pins matched the diagram from the fsm for easier comparisons. I went ahead and ordered them both. Sure hope my gremlins go away... I've been driving the comanche for 4 days now without an inspection since my F250 is having 4 new ball joints installed.

New waterpump maybe???

I too suffer from this. Turn signals work fine until the parking lights are turned on. Since I knew about the melted headlight switch connector, I oredered a new switch and connector. In the mean time I thought I would just go ahead and check all the bulbs and sockets for grounds. I found the right front socket had a weak ground, so I replaced it. No change... I installed a new turn signal switch in the column, no change... I cleaned all the chasis grounds, no change... I still think the problem is the headlight switch, but after reading this post, I will go back and add that 10" wire ground under the dash, and spray the 10-pin connector. and report back. All the wiring in my truck is unmolested, and there are no signs of chaffing or anything out of the ordinary, so it sure seems like it could be a ground problem. Just can't figure out why the connector on the headlight switch melted in the past. heat buildup from a bad connection? At any rate, I WILL figure it out eventually.

Interesting... I logged on to ask why mine was doing the very same thing. Not always, but intermittently. :MJ 1: