ftpiercecracker1

you must be grounding out the system some how. Do your tail lights come on when you hit your brakes?

can some one post a pic of the "pool noodle" version, i don't fully understand where these are going. thanks

Man, thats some crazy sh*t! :eek: I know about water getting into the axle, mine actually probably has some in it, but I had no idea that could happen.

Not trying to devalue your truck by any means, but I paid $1000 for mine and it was a 1990 Eliminator 4x4, 4.0, 5spd, 140k near perfect interior and good running condition, with a few spare parts as well. Guess I just got a good deal. Depending on how severe it knocks, I would post it for 2300 and settle for 1900. Just my opinion, but depending on the answers to the questions below you could foreseeably get 2500 for it, so don't be discouraged. These are a few other questions that could either help or hinder your asking price. Is it a 4.0 or a 2.5? Does it have working a/c? heat? Does everything work on it? windows, door locks, radio, etc. How much rust? superfical or frame rust Does it burn oil? blue smoke, white smoke? and craigslist is a fantastic way to advertise it, i'd do that first thing. :thumbsup:

New shop, Reed Grant performance. Extremely helpful and welcoming, answered every question with humility and clarity. The man is an engine genius. 50+ years experience. Experience on "our" motors doesnt matter, he was already doing research on jeep strokers before i even left the shop. price. . . original (mike's speed shop)- near $1000 :eek: :fs1: new (Reed Grant)- $550 and thats no expence spared :banana: he also has his own custom built dino (he used to design them), on which he personally tunes each engine he builds. To the person who asked about my area, think Murfreesboro, TN (middle TN)

I apologize for the vagueness of the post. valve adjustment: Just the term that the shop used, they rarely if ever work on jeeps, of any kind, they might not even know about the none adjustment. turn and polish the rods: what that jimoshel said, resurfacing the surface of the bearing, making it "true" again. but don't worry i have already removed all of my stuff from said shop and looking for another one. I a quite glad i did because after talking to my local NAPA, (first name basis:thumbsup:) they let me know that not only are they one of the highest priced shops in town, but also the least competent. The shop was sold to another owner a few years ago, and according to my guys, the new management screws up a LOT of stuff.

Been there, read that. But thanks for the post anyway and ya KB pistons would be really Really nice, but 500 bucks is a lot to shell out on one part. Here is a link to the ones that i think i might be going with. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SLP-677CP30/ But, as I learned today, it is highly recommended to let your shop buy the parts, because A) they get a HUGE discount and B) They actually know what the hell they are doing and will know exactly what will work best for your/my setup.

The block i am going to use for the build needs to have the usual machining. A local shop that i am trying out says it is going to run me about $625 for the block work and $325 for the crank work. here is how they break it down. Block: cleaning, new freeze plugs and cam bearings-$130 (shop cleaning is mandatory) Bore & hone- $140 head & block decking-$140 miscellaneous -$68 Head: basic valve job & adjustment-$148 Crank & rods: + crank turned and polished + pistons removed and replaced + rods turned and polished = $325 NO balancing included Tell me what you think, I was really looking forward to this build, but the whole $1000 machine work bill has left a bad taste in my mouth.

No can do, I take the phrase "built not bought" to heart. I was born a hardcore DIYer and if I didnt do what I do you boys would be out of a job :D

ok, how bout this 4.0 push rods (30 bucks from oriellys) 4.2 connecting rods (on hand, 707 casting YAAA!) Kb944 .030 pistons and rings ($500 from summit) 4.2 12cw crank

:rotf:

hmmm, so your saying no matter what piston/connecting rod combo i go with i will have to use the 4.2 push rods?

after much debate with the JeepStroker guys i believe these are my two choices (more expensive, more durable) 4.2 crank 4.0 push and connect rods kb944 .030 pistons (500 bucks) or (less expensive, less durable) 4.2 crank 4.0 push rods and pistons .030 (180 bucks) 4.2 connecting rods thoughts?

:fs1: :fs1: I consider an A/F meter mandatory to monitor the mixture and a FP regulator as the best means to adjust it. Without these you're just shooting in the dark. You might luck out and nail it correctly the first time, but the odds are it'll run like a pig or worse. I'm running an 01 fuel rail on my 99 (the vehicle that my stroker is in), with the stock 01 regulator. have not had any issues thus far. on original 260xxx mile fuel pump as well... Do you think I should do something about it? or just leave it be? sorry for the hijack. :fs1: Nah, just kiddin

gotcha :thumbsup: sooo. . . the setup i said at the beginning of this thread will work, so long as i acquire the proper oversized pistons.

i am already a member of jeepstroker.com, but i am having some issues with posting. each time i long in there are several lines of raw code at the top of the page saying something to do with an error. I can navigate the website just fine, but if I try to post something when I hit submit it goes to an error page. And I don't understand what you ment in your last comment about my fuel pressure reg question? could you clarify? thanks for the insight

thanks for the info, but when it comes to pistons why can't i just get oversized 4.0 pistons? and what do you mean by "rods"? push or connecting? I see this alot on other forums and get quite confused on which ones they are talking about. and i still don't understand whether i can run the setup i mentioned, I know the crank will work and that i have to get oversized pistons, but what about using the 4.0 pushrods in junction with the 4.2 connecting rods?? thanks, everything else was quite helpful Oh, and what about a fuel pressure regualtor or a air/fuel ratio gauge? thanks again.

First time building a stroker, second time building an engine. (jeepstroker.com isnt working :fs1:) stock 258 crank 12cw stock 258 connecting rods stock 4.0 pistons stock 4.0 pushrods block will be .030 over (maybe .060) 88 4.0 block (receiver) 79 4.2 block (donor) Can you tell by this setup what cam i will need? Don't care Don't care if i have to use high octane usage. heavy offroad use, trails, lots of mud, very little crawling. think offroad rally/mud drag (South Florida location), From what I have read even if you setup your motor for mostly top end you will still have a pretty nasty bottom end. sound right? would like to keep it at or under $2,000 thanks for the help.

Well I just got home with my latest edition to the family, yes thats right I just bought that 258 i've been tellin you guys about. Engine came complete, with power steering pump, water pump, fan, intake and exhaust man's, carb, pulleys, belts, distributor, new plugs, new fuel pump, new alternator, and the flywheel. And for all of that i paid a grand total of 70 bucks. :thumbsup: He even had a engine hoist so loading was a breeze. The engine itself is in pretty dang good condition, its even still completely painted, slightly faded though. here is the numbers off the block. . . 3227445, I am pretty sure its a 79, which means its got the 12 counter weight crank, which was the one I was searching for. all in all i must say i am a very VERY happy man :jump:

Yep. Crank and rods. don't waste any time getting it. x2, i'd jump at that just for the stoker stuff for a 4.0. Now just find a well-kept high mileage 4.0 for cheap and rebuild it and strooooooke it! :banana: :banana: :banana: don't You Know It. Thats the whole reason I am getting it. I've got an 88 4.0 (high nickle block?) that had 125 tho on it, that i will be mating with the 258. I hope to make it a true 4.7, but i would be happy with a 4.6L. The monster will be going into a 90 eliminator, 5spd, 4x4. I think if it all works out, its going to be one bad-a** machine. once i get the ball rolling i will post a complete build, pictures, info, the works.

working on it. goin go and pick it up sat day. Wow i'm suprised that you guys arent :eek: or something. All I found after diligently searching for weeks was like 3 cranks on ebay in afganistan for 400 bucks and thats just for the crank. There were a few other guys on craigslist with 258, but they were asking 300 and up. I called about 10 different auto salavage yards in florida (friends and family there) and NONE of them had any CJs or even any parts for a CJ. One guy even went as far as to say that he found no CJs at any florida salavage yard. zero. zilch. nada. He had access to FL database. no matter, I guess I am the only one going bananas over it. :banana: here's hopin I havent jinked myself :typing:

Found a guy on craigslist that is asking 75 bucks out the door for a complete, running 258 out of a 79-cj5! I nearly passed out when he told me what he was asking. O, there is a GOD!!

guys got a 258 for sale runs great, still in jeep asking $300. comes complete minus the wiring harness good deal? thanks for the help, No clue on the milage

question: did you stroke the 4.2 crank? or did you just use the stock stroke? how much did this setup cost minus the propane conversion.

before you go and buy anything, first. . . 1. Jack up the front end of the ground and rotate the tires by hand and listen. 2. If you can hear the noise but can't pinpoint it, take the tires off 3. Once the tires are off continue rotating, listening and looking have you done a brake job recently?