Jeep Driver

Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found No change in rough idle.

Common to the XJ and you'll find'm by the dozens at the PnP for a couple of bucks.

Let me ask you...... Dayco parts seem to be of good quality, I assume that they are more plentiful to in Australia, are you happy with them?

The pump itself looks similar to the XJ/MJ pump, is it?

It just occurred to me, the clutch disc may be in backwards. It is marked on the disc. You'll need to pull it apart.

So, you're thinking that's what it is? I have one more day of work and then I'm going off for the weekend.........I may pull or eliminate when I get back. I'm reading that other's have pulled theirs with no ill effects, you agree with this? And no, I really don't have $85 for a new one.

All vacuum lines and hoses are new and I checked the booster......no leaks.

Now it's reading 1.48v at idle. No change with I push up on the EGR. Stabbing the throttle......I got it to rise to 4.14v for a fraction of a second.

OK, I have not taken a EGR apart, so maybe I do not understand how it works. I assumed that by pushing up on what I consider the vacuum bladder the valve should open.......>? What about from idle doing a throttle "stab" while observing MAP output. Voltage is erratic and goes as high as 2.42v

At throttle.......approx 2500+ rpm it measures a sustained 1.13v

1.79 at idle, I did not test at trottle. Nothing happens to the idle when I raised the EGR valve.......which surprised me......no response at all.

Check with your local trailer builder or trailer supply company, such as http://americantrailerparts.com/pages/# They are local to me and it's where I got my 9/16 Ubolts from. But they have all sizes of bolts, perches, shims......just about anything axle related......and cheaper than elsewhere.

Voltage to MAP is 4.87v Voltage out is 1.79v However....... When I unplug vacuum to MAP while running and working the throttle and then reconnect the vacuum, I get about 10 seconds of normal and smooth idle. Is it possible that the MAP can test good and yet be bad? Also, the EGR is not stuck, I can push it up with my fingers, it stays in the closed position during idle.

Couple of weeks ago the engine began to idle as though it were in open loop. Last week I replaced the temp sender in the manifold, no change. Monday I had the new AC system/compressor charged, works great, but afterward the idle would drop too low with compressor on. Tuesday I replaced the idle control motor which had never worked since I had the truck. Now it idles too low, and revs too high at start up. Yesterday I replaced the TPS, the last one tested bad, my thinking is that the ECU did not know where the throttle was and was not sending the correct signal to the ICM. Idle is unchanged, still low and rough. I have gone through all my grounds, cables, wires, cap and rotor, sensors (except MAP).......etc. I went through all the vacuum lines and tested......idle is unchanged. Question- The two things I have not changed are the MAP and EGR valve. EGR is stuck, has been since I owned it and I'd like to remove it. Which is most likely to be bad? How do I test MAP? I have searched the web for MAP test and I have not found it. Would EGR suddenly change? Moved? What or how is the idle control motor controlled......what sensors are used to by the ECU to set the ICM? Thoughts? Thanks.

I reused mine, if you are careful...........

Advance Auto....with P20 code it comes to $56 BWD EC1403P Autozone Duralast SC100 and is $64

http://www.carparts.com/details/Cadillac/DeVille/Replacement/Idle_Control_Motor/1984/REPH313201.html?TID=cpecn&003=29205158&CS_010=cpreidcomo84cadillacdeville19801995replacementreph3132011421030

I found no need to run a new line to the rear, I simply flared the existing line. Image Not Found

I think you are the one that should post pics of what you are dealing with so others can see what you see.

My 94+ LUK kit came complete with TO bearing for $96 at NAPA........ask for a discount.

Replace it with a 4 gauge cable with copper lugs and not another worthless strap.

BTW....... You'll easily have $600 in it, if not more. You'll need wheel spacers with the 8.8, and you'll need parking brake cables and you'll need to adapt your DS yoke....etc.........oil, brake pads, perches, and the like. And you'll need to eliminate the prop valve to go with discs. It is not a 3 hour bolt and go endeavor. You'll also need new Ubolts.......yeah, you'll have $700 in it.

Yes it will work.........little pricey......but..........it's got discs and if you need 4.10........... You'll need to have it set up though, spring perches welded.

I won't explain it very well......... You are applying power to both sides of the ring gear. You are going from the drive side to the coast side then back to drive side. Pressure on the components is changing. If the spider gears or RnP or bearings or.....are failing, the change in the direction of pressure is causing the 'clunk'.

Failing differential would be my guess.