drcomanche

I'm pretty sure it's the HO unit. I bought the injectors from someone claiming they would fit for that year...

Well, figured it out. It appears that the injectors I purchased didn't actually fit the model year they were advertised for. Quite an inconvenience, but I knew the fuel rail wasn't sitting right. The fuel injectors(the new ones) look a bit worse for the wear now. They didn't fit the hole in the intake manifold quite right, so it bent some of the edges on them. I'm wondering now if maybe this was an earlier year manifold? Was there a difference between years for injectors?

I didn't have to disconnect it, and, although I have a replacement, it hasn't prompted action.

That may be my only choice. I don't see where it could have gone wrong though. They were specifically for the vehicle.

labeled all the injectors. No problems there(it also helps that all the wires are, more or less, bent to exactly where they need to be. I just checked the MAP sensor. Its plugged in via a vacuum hose and all connections are good.

So, I decided to undertake a more difficult repair today, and replaced my exhaust manifold, fuel injectors, and gaskets. It went smoothly, I reinstalled everything, but when i went to start it, it is missing BAD. I pulled plugs to see what wasnt going and cylinder 6 isnt firing at all anymore. I didnt have a chance to check any others before it stalled out. It smelled like solid gasoline everywhere, but there was no leaking. I restarted it and this time unplugged my Air charge temp sensor and the engine didn't change at all. Whenever I rev it slightly, it stutters when I let go and almost stalls. After about a minute running I can hear it very loudly start to pull in as much air as possible causing the engine rpms to slightly rise. I went to autozone and bought a new air charge sensor, but it still isn't doing anything. It's smoking a lot, and I'm not sure what the problem is. Considering this is my daily driver, I need it back up and running asap... Any help is greatly appreciated.

This was exactly right. I ordered them and installed them, fairly pain free, and voila! Steering is SO much tighter now, which is convenient, but the best part... It COMPLETELY fixed my death wobble problem. Not a shimmy or shake akin to death wobble even at 65 hitting some very bad bumps(enough to make the truck jump) I do still have some significant vibration in the drivetrain at 35 and when I'm running at 55 and above, I can feel and hear a high frequency wobble. I still get plenty of bumps while driving, but no death wobble.

exactly like this, only with a larger threaded bolt size(this one is only 3/4).

I'm not looking for another heim though. I would like a rod end that is pretty much like this The right side, bushing supported end, only with a 7/8th shank bolt and threads rather than being attached to a solid bar. I've seen it before, but I can't find the right size.

I want to steady out my death wobble a bit, and having a double heim track bar makes it a bit more difficult. I want to put on a bushing supported rod end, but for the life of me, I can't find one with a bigger shank than 3/4. I need a 7/8 and there are tons of companies who make heim joints and rod ends, but I can never find a solid end with no flex. Does anyone on here have any suggestions where to look?

I'm having the exact same problem, so any input here would be useful to me as well. I haven't been able to drop the transmission yet(It takes a hell of a lot of removing stuff, such as the entire y link) but I'm getting a kind of grinding noise like a couple of screws in a blender, and when I push the clutch it goes away.

It's not malfunctioning looseness though. It pivots like the rod end should, it just isn't snug to the knuckle, so that gives it a little room where the rod end can pivot. It doesn't go down any further either, so the next logical conclusion for me is that there was once something there that is no longer.

I have an upgraded front axle, so I would imagine that the steering linkage and tie rod are custom pieces. My tie rod shifts forwards and backwards at both ends and since the steering is connected to that it gives me some slop in the entire steering system. My question is, what is supposed to go in between the tie rod end and the clip for the wheel, so it doesn't move back and forth.

Well, after a long while of working 14 hours a day, I FINALLY got a chance to work on the truck in daylight! I've been doing quite a bit of work at night, so pictures were few and far between, but today, I got out there, wrenched a little, and took some pictures. About 2 weeks ago, I got a tune up kit and installed it(of course, it had to be freezing that night, and started raining/sleeting). The install was very easy, which is quite a change from my old Porsche. Some of the sparkplugs had significant buildup on them, so it was probably about time anyway. The engine has had a miss recently that I've been trying to diagnose, so I've been purchasing replacement sensors and what not, and today, I installed my new charged air sensor. The old one looked terrible. It had buildup on it and was pretty dirty. I also got a new O2 sensor, but I can't get the old one out. :fs1: I actually bent my wrench head with all the force from trying. It's really frustrating. Some of the other parts in that picture are for my rear axle, which is leaking fluid from the pinion like it was made out of a colander. The seal is going (or rather gone) on it so I need to do that replacement soon as well. And lastly, I have a new master clutch cylinder I need to install so my clutch will be a little less moody. Today, while working, I noticed that the engine was particularly noisy for the exhaust, so I was looking at the gasket when I noticed this. If you look closely at the back of the picture, you can see my exhaust manifold, and the rather large crack that run 3/4s of the way around it. Lucky for me, in all of my spare parts, there was another manifold. It's a bit rusty, but it will clean up nice. It does look different than my current one, though. The current one doesn't have those bunched up parts midway in the tube. I also bought a kit of pedals from the store, because my old ones were non existent. It came with a new shift knob too, which is nice, because I really wasn't a fan of the 8 ball that was on previously. I purchased a rear view mirror from a cherokee, but the metal hangar that is on my new windshield has the screw notch in a different place. :wall: I'm going to have to rig it to work at some point. I've been working on putting on a steering damper, but I can't find a tie rod plate that actually fits my tie rod, so thats been put on hold for the time. And here are some pics of it currently. I'm sorry it took so long to get back to you on this, work has really put me through hell lately. They are 2.5 inch spacer.

If you are looking to check your vin, there is a link to a decoder in the DIY sections of the forum. It will tell you what you need to know. Otherwise, the truck is looking good, keep it up.

I'm just going to completely reoutfit the system, and switch everything over to an external slave, so I can avoid further problems in the future. I figure it's about time, and I've found a decent setup, with everything I need, for about 200, including the master and slave cylinders.

Yes, actually. I have to do it on occasion to get it back to where it was. But most of the time, it just sticks. When it's stuck in gear, no amount of pumping gets it to work.

And, one more amendment that upsets me, after a second more detailed look, I see it's an internal slave... :headpop: Anybody got a bellhousing for external? :brows: Might as well get it done now and save time later. And also, is there a writeup for this? Or is it just a bolt on and go thing?

If I could tie threads together I would. A few days ago, when I posted this thread, I posted another about it stalling out at a light. Today, I figured out that both of these problems are the same. The longer I hold down the clutch pedal, the lower the rpms get, until the gear engages and stalls. Lifting my foot after that, there is surprisingly little push back up. I let up and pushed it all the way in, then let up again, and it returned to normal. My pedal is becoming less and less useful, and I find myself stalling more and more during my daily travel. Something has got to be failing, pressure wise for this to happen. Does this clarify my problem to anybody?

So, another symptom today. As I cam to a stop for a right turn, I couldnt lift the peddle up at all before it solidly engaged the gear. It doesnt have the slack it did before. don't know if this helps diagnose the problem but I figured ide throw it out there. And for reference, it is an external slave.

It helps it, but as soon as I let off, it returns to the previous rpm, however low that was.

:bowdown: The stance for this truck, the flares, the tires.... Everything works perfectly. That is not only one of the coolest Comanches I've ever seen, but also one of the coolest 4x4's in general I have ever seen. My god, that thing must be a monster offroad... :drool:

The drivetrain is an unaltered 94 Cherokee AX 15 I6. I'm not sure when they went to external slaves. If by pop the top, you mean the plastic cap in the engine bay, than it's still full. Pardon my inexperience in this area of the truck. Transmissions are not one of my practiced areas. And I have to amend a previous statement, it sometimes doesn't like to go into a gear when it's off. Only sometimes though.

I'm not sure how to tell if the clutch master cylinder is full or not. As for bleeding the clutch, is there a write up for it on here somewhere?

Ok. I've checked the level, and it is still max. I'm not sure when it was last bled. And it only does it while running. It can go into gear fine when it's off.