zagscrawler

Well to be honest it seems by default (shotgun) you might of hit the problem, but sounds like nothing changed? If your mech has is hooked up to a scanner when this happens there should be something going on on his screen. The stumble alone should cause other sensors to respond differently then normal. I'm sure your at wits end but hang in there, i personally would hate to trash a cool ride because of a loose wire or something stupid. To be honest the only thing i can think of suggesting is check things like balast resistor and things in the wiring that may change with temp or get warm as you drive. If i was in your shoes i might acctually take into considerasion that some of the parts you replaced might not be the best also... :dunno: . Also i would be driving it like i was in constant diagnosis all the time, like when it acts up let of the gas in different ranges to see if it changes or go full throttle when it happens to see if it cleans up or kill the engine while it is happening and restart it while still rolling to see if the reset helps, that kinda stuff. Do your best to isolate the problem then tell your mechanic everything you did to help or hurt the prob. Good luck man and don't be afraid to experament, its your truck right lol :wrench: oh and try and ge a temp reading off the head via remote temp gun or some sort of temp devise when this is happening.

:agree: this sounds like a bandaid to me. What makes you think you suffer from heat soak? fyi everysingle car or truck built suffers from heat soak. The system can compansate for it normally. Is it a starting issue? are you loosing fluid after you shut it off? Also do you have a reliable temp gauge in that bad boy? There is a way to do what you ask but its hard on the battery and not recomended in most cases. Oh and the temp in the engine bay is not as important as the temp in the head and or the rest of the motor. Need a little more info to help ya out :???:

I'm going back in SOA. Which leads me to an other question lol. Looks like the axle tubes are larger on the 8.25 and probably means i can't use the u-bolt plates either? Will i have to make new ones? I do kinda plan on cutting the old XJ shock mounts off and relocating them near the perches to keep them near the stock location. Or should i find a way to fab shock mounts onto my new u-bolt plates on top of the axle now?

Nuff said thanks :cheers:

It looks like i have to move the shock mounts on my new 8.25 diff as well as perches and figured i could mount them where ever i wanted now. I'm wondering if there are ideal places to mount the shocks on the diff for maximum flex with still keeping it stable. I have brand new shocks still in the boxes and was told if i want to trade them in for different length ones i can as long as i don't mount these ones yet. I would figure the closer i get to the pumpkin the less the shock would move during flex and allow for more flex, I'm sure it will have some reverse affects as well but would like to know ahead of time. So basically if anyone has some figures (like shock length, seperation on diff and even on chassis) that would be great. I'm going to be lifted around 6.5-7" and running 35's x 11.5-12.5" wide with around 5.5 offset on wheels i think. The front will be custom long arm 4-link all hyme jointed.

Well i noticed that the shock mounts on the 8.25 are different than the stock d35 diff i have in the truck now. The stockers both mount to the rear of the diff and the 8.25s are one to the front and one to the rear of the diff. Anyone know if its better to remount them so both are in the rear or if i should try to move the mount on the truck to accept the one forward mount of the diff? Ill do what ever is best for flexing out if that helps. Thanks Zag

cool thanks for the heads up

so i picked up a 8.25 diff today and was wondering if i need to find a new u-joint or not. Ive got a d35 now and need a new u-joint. Any clue as to if i need a new one or if i can use my old one? If I'm not mistaken this diff is out of a 98.

Did the pump have a factory plug on it still or did you have to wire it to the sender assembly? Also how much fuel is in the tank now? In my experiance ive never had to prime a new pump but ive not seen it all I'm sure, but i would make sure to have at least half a tank in it or so to help the pump prime itself. Just a thought did you run a fuel sock on the end of the pump? If not i know some pumps come with little plugs on the end of the pickup to keep garbage out while sitting on the shelf and shipping and whatnot. Is it possible that you didn't remove the plug before you stuck it in? Good luck oh almost forgot. go head and cycle the key very quickly with a catch can or something under where the fuel filter goes and see if you get flow up the the filter fittings. Be carefull not to spray fuel everywhere though. :wrench:

Sure sounds like an air pocket to me.... hmm next time you drive it and it is moving up and down like that try rapidly turning the steering wheel to slosh the water around in your cooling system, not while you hauling a$$ obviously. Some times the air pocket (if it has one) will move away from sender or thermostat and change your readings on your gauge. Or even consistant left or right hand turns can have the same effect. If you can manually change the readings on your gauge with any of the above mentioned techniques its got to be an air bubble traped in there. Good luck

Oh and that remote thingy could be a few things. Maybe a water seperater or an extra oil filter.... My dad runs remote oil filters with built in water seperators that look similar to that.

Maybe when you ask for the new one make sure you say sending unit instead of oil switch. If they ask what year make model kinda thing, find someone with same year truck that has oil gauge from the factory and tell the computer jockey at the counter thats what you have. The oil switch does just like it sounds, closes contacts or opens them like a switch (for the idiot light style), but the oil sender is more of a reostat that transmits voltage or grounding resistance depending on the position of the internals in the sender (via various presures) kinda like a fuel sender. If your gauge pegs when you turn your key you most likely have a switch installed instead of a sender.

Does anyone have any experiance with the "y link" front set-up. The one where the uppers are mounted on the lower long arms and not the chassis? I'm going to build my own set up real soon and ran across this on the net plus a friend of mine thinks its the tits but i have never seen it before. Any links to builds with this set up or info out there would greatly help my noob @$$.

thanks for the advise guys. i went ahead and ordered some correct springs today and a rear shackle to add one inch to the rear. Plus i plan on doing the spring over real soon aswell. ill post some pics before and after the install. Might have to start a build thread i guess :cheers:

Anyone ever tried cutting there high lift coil spring to drop a few inches of lift? to be exact brand new 9inchers down to 6.5s or so.

Ive not done a head job yet on a 4L but i have used everything from solid copper to composite styles with metal rings and even NO gaskets at all with just comp rings and o-rings. In my opinion i would stay away from any solid metal gaskets unless you have aftermarket head bolts or studs placed into a solid block. The layered metalic ones are great but again don't hold to flex in head and block like the composite or tin-cored fabric ones. If i had steel block and heads id go with the layered metal with (like mentioned above) the proper sealant. The copper coat is the bomb, still gives a little when flexing without creating breaks in the sealant, but be sure to coat it a bunch of times before you install the head gasket. I normally use somewhere around 5-10 coats on gasket, but i do dust the stuff on for each coat. enouph to just cover last coat but do not make it run. Oh and i use a spray type sealer. When you install the gasket make sure you don't touch any of the preasure ports when handleing, like cyl sealing rings or water passages and oil ports. and be sure to clean the crap out of your head gasket before spraying any sealer onto it. I use alluminum brightener to be honest, works great and you can see it work as you clean, just don't get it on your hands. I'm sure there are other ways to clean the gasket that will work the same really. GL with your head job and for f-sake make sure all your surfaces are clean as can be, doesn't matter what gasket or sealants you use if things are dirty they won't stick. :wrench:

got an other ? for yall. anyone know what kind of axles come in an 80 jeep wagoneer? one on craiglist locally right now . Add says v6 360 4x4 but must be a typo?

very good. thanks for the confermation and the info on perch sources. Any ideas on where to find a d30 hp or should i just say screw it and go with it for now till better axles show up? is there a max lift i can run with a dana 30 low pinion as far as pinion angle? Oh and you are correct on the app of the axles....4L 5spd.

eventually yes i do plan on swaping to HO but my buddy with it has to dig it out of a friends backyard to make sure its still chillin where he left it, wish me luck lol. Are you sure about the low pinion? Ive heard otherwise, might be complete garbage info but want to be sure. Plus its 200 bucks for both axles and really want to get this bad boy rollin in four wheel soon. But otherwise are the axles the same as far as strength compared to the earlier models? Oh and i have been considering just doing a spring over on my stock d35 in the rear and throwing a pocket locker in for now till i find better axles. What do you think a d30 hp front would run if i found one locally and where would be the place to look for a hp front?

Well I'm way to excided about hitting the rocks to wait for a good deal on big axles, specially with my limited funds at the moment. Ive found a local deal on d30 and d35 out of a 97 tj and was wondering besides adding pirches to the rear are there any disadvantages to running these instead of an older model cherokee? I also wonder if its infact a chrystler 8.25 in the rear and he doesn't know it. Any ideas? oh and any clue on where to order some new spring perches on the net. Thanks folks

I'm not sure i know the diff between "pocket and full locker". I don't need any manual engagement levers or anything just a good locked up rear when i have some torque aplied. NO LIMITED SLIP PLS. So that rear d60 is a bit to new? with the metric pattern and all? so has to be matched up with a later model front that uses ball joints instead of a kingpin? am i understanding that right? if so are the rest of the parts on this e-350 rear strong as the older ones? sorry for so many questions but i don't want to assume anything.

Some new news on my build. So the guy i was going to get the d44's from sold the whole truck instead of parting it out.... total bumber but i still have access to the rear d60. My new questions are as fallows. Is there a way i can identify the rear d60 to tell whether its a large or small brng version? Also if its full float or semi float axle, something like flanges holding bearings inside of outer axle tube? It came out of a 2003 ford e-350 van. Also is there a good source for finding a matching front axle? High pinion would be best if I'm reading all this stuff right. Oh one more. What are your opinions on the Richmond locker, Lockright or surelock, i can't remember the name now lol. Thanks Zag

Just throwing this out there. When you go to start it next time cycle the key three or four times in a row and make sure you hear the fuel pump prime each time and try starting it imediatly after the fourth cycle of the key. Sometimes if the fuel pump is getting tired this will get it started, but you usually have other running probs after it fires up if the fuel pump is going on you. If for some strange reason this works you should run diagnostics on your fuel system for sure. Good Luck buddy.

Got some more ? for you guys :D One of my buds has a 4.0L H.O. i can get for real cheap and also an AX 15 trans w/transcase. So my questions are will i have any probs slaping the HO in my non-ho chassis, at least i can't find anything that states i allready have an HO. Also is there any must have mods that i need to do to the trans before the swap, and i do have the 2x4 pukey trans in it now. Oh and by the way I have desided against trying to fit 37's on this sucker and think i am going to be fine with 35s while i learn how to drive. Oh ya and still have plans on sticking with the d44's front and rear axles. Thanks Zag

Wow thanks for the advise guys, but i think i found the problem. If i have the brakes on at all while driving the noise goes away. I'm pretty sure its the caliper hardware and bushings making the racket. This thing has almost 240000 miles on it and I'm sure the brakes could use a once over. I can probably find some rebuild kits at napa or somewhere or even make some new bushings my self. worst case is i pic up some new calipers and hardware. Again thanks for all the help and tips, all of those things is bound to happen at some point on this sucker eventually, its nice to have a heads up. :wrench: