zagscrawler

Thanks for all the info guys :thumbsup:

Not to got off subject but ive always thought shocks to help body role to be a small bandade, specially in long corners. just my opinoin but spring presures and anti-role bars are what makes a vehicle perticularly stable in corners as shocks even with all the high end complicated valving slow down the effect. The way i see it is if you sit high (high center of gravity) compared to passenger cars springs, and where they sit compared to weight over axles, are what in the long run control body role, the shock may slow it down when weaving but onces you set the weight in motion it will lean untill stoped by equal forces (springs), the shocks offer valving that is supposed to recognize this but i believe this to be a bunch of crap unless computer controled and with a back up presure source. The reason i say this is for example if your are on the freeway and cornering at speed and hit some bumps what keeps the shock from giving until the spring, or combiniation of springs via sway bar, stops it... It is a give and take and for now and maybe someday it won't be, if you want flex you need low spring rate if you want to be stable in corners you need higher spring rates however achieved. I'm sure you can find a happy medium but a cut and dry solution is bout imposible. Just as a side note if you do go with a stiffer valved shock you will feel it on the rocks for sure...enouph to be uncomfortable...maybe not but if i were you i would beef the hell out of my sway bar and get good disconnects for it lol. good luck

Mike I'm real interested in your offer let me sit on it for a few as i am getting married this friday. :cheers: ill be in contact with ya for sure. One ? though are all aw4's the same or are there year and fitment differences? Thanks for the reply.

Well it looks like I'm going to be swapping out this old @$$ ba10 trans for an Aw4 after all.. Anyone have any suggestions as to a good year and any other info on a solid auto trans? Ive got a 88 2wd I'm converting to 4wd. Thanks all

IMHO having an oil temp gauge is a great idea... Me being a mechanic I allways pay attention to all the important temps, for example when i have spent tons of time and money (well my bosses money) rebuilding a high strung racing engine with oil clearances in the .002-.004 of an inch it is EXTREMLY important to warm up the oil to proper temps before you go sticking your foot in it. In my shop we have a few body guys that don't appreciate the importance of proper warm ups and just start it up and hit the rev limiter when they need to move the car around. The gauge allows anyone to get into the car and know when its ok to put the car into loaded environments, well atleast i always warn them to let it warm up a bit and know they can acctually see with there own eyes when it is safe. Also the way i see it is the water temp is no where near as consistant as oil temps and i think it to be in bad form to assume they will heat up the same. The water is mostly heated up from the water jackets surounding the bores and porting around the combustion chambers which generate TONS more heat than the frictions and viscositys of the oil and bearings. So to get back to the original question I wouldn't hesatate to install an aftermarket oil temp gauge in my jeep, cold starts (which is very difficult to avoid) and loading the engine before the oil warms up is the leading cause in bearing wear hands down.

If i remember right the pinion shims go in between the pinion gear and the inner part of the bearing. They should be much smaller shims than the carrier bearing shims. Its been a while since my last time inside of an 8.8 diff

Do you know if anyone has had there hands in the diff recently? That does seem like a lot of miles on the original bearings, it could be possible that the pinion bearing is going south on you letting your pinion gear shift around a bit while floating at cruse. Can you grab the yoke and feel loads of backlash? Also if you allready have the cover off you could try prying on the carrier left to right to see if the carrier shifts side to side.

Ive asked the same question before a little while ago on here and the majority pointed me to the RRO dispite there lack of customer service. From what i gathered lots of people have had good experienced with there service and product but arn't as quick to post about the positive news near as much as the ones that have had trouble. Its like anything else people talk about, most just run around bitching all day about all the bad things they went through and saw instead of making conversation of all the things that went right for them. Just my opinion. When money gets freed up again ill be ordering a set of brackets for my own MJ. Also if i remember right most said they had better luck when calling up the company instead of ordering online. Hope this helps. Good luck P.S. Allways install the support brace, the way i see it is even on road if say you loose a tire or loose control of your truck and hit a curb or anything else that doesn't move well the brace could be the difference in a totaled truck and maybe a bent rim or axletube. good luck

sounds like you just need to install an overflow bottle for the hose to connect to. in a lot of states its not legal to have the hose open to the air like that. Any parts store should have a universal overflow bottle you can purchase.

The first sounds like something in the fuel system gave up. The fact that it reved up on its own and then died seems like ran out of gas and went lean for a sec before shutting down. The second is like stated above, can't buy new ones anymore, but if you poke your head down there and see how it hooks up you might a very simple replacement cable. Ive got the same problem and will make a new pull cable soon. Nothing fancy just want to have it function again. The third is simple as well. if you look below the dash where the cable would normally go you will find a small lever with a hole in it where the old cable went through. If you manually pull that lever forward it should pop your e-brake. BE CAREFULL..... when the pedal is reliesed it will come up with some serious force so make sure you face isn't in the way of the pedal when you do this. I almost lost a tooth over it lol gl :D

I'm currious about cams as well.. someday in the near future i plan on rebuilding my spare renix 4.0 as well. don't mean to thread jack but was allways wondering what cam and maybe stroker builds will still pass AZ emissions if at all. this truck may someday become a trailer queen but for now need to think.. street legal.

sound like air idle control motor. mine did the same thing in the mornings, had to get some heat in the engine before i could play with the throttle. If it is that then don't pay for the cheepest one you can find. ive had lots of cheepos crap out on me way to soon. I don't use my ac, but i believe the air idle control also kicks up the engine speed when the ac is turned on..... i think. gl

Well that looks like the dryers I'm used to seeing..... never really seen two in a truck before. Got me stumped

I'm not sure what dryer you are talking about in the second photo? i can't make it out to be honest. the can with all the arrows pointed at it is deffinately a reciever/dryer and is required for your system to work properly. like said above if its leaking at the fitting it could be as easy as replacing the o-ring at that spot. If there is a crack in the alluminum tube part and it is not to close to the tube nut it can be cleaned and welded up. Ive welded alluminum ac tube many times of the years. gl

If you go with the 8.25 try to get a complete axle drum to drum, I'm pretty sure the d35 backing plates won't bolt up to the 8.25 so make sure it has brakes on it. Also ive believe ive heard the 8.25 is a tad longer at the u-joint yoke and some people have had to shorten the drive shaft a bit.

Thats what i paid for my truck and i bought it from my own father lol. I have my eye on an other right now for the same price and it need similar work as the one you mention so in my opinion for a stocker that needs work i guess that price seems right. some think there worth gold I'm sure but i think the value depends on what you are looking to do with it. i got mime to build into a nice trail rig and will be investing good amount of money to make it so. driving this one and learning the ins and outs of the comanche has really peaked my intrest in the trucks in general, also i might be wrong but if you pick up a chevy s10 and need help with it I'm not sure you will find such a large comunity of others with the same truck that are willing to help you out.... Its a jeep thing :D So to answer your questions directly Yes I think it is a good deal, even if you plan on keeping it a stock truck. Mine gets better millage then my old 4cyl nean did and way better then my wifes full size 6cyl chevy. Good luck with what ever you do. :thumbsup:

Thanks cody ill look into that. I'm in no serious rush at the moment as i still need a few more parts to complete my lift kit and money is tight like always. Also i might be picking an other mj up soon and need to get it running again so i can have a good daily driver while i do the conversion to my previous truck. Thanks everyone for the info and i hope to start a build thread in a couple of months when all the parts and money comes together so i can share my truck with you guys like you have shared all your advice. :cheers:

WOW i really appreciate the feed back so far guys and not one rude comment :thumbsup: Eagle if i may ask what size tires were you running? ive got 35's sitting ready to go on and about 6.5 inches of lift sitting in the garage. Ive heard with 35's or bigger the rock hang up problem gets a lot less noticable. any other input on this ? Also i do plan on driving my truck to the trail and hopefully home :D . Again thanks for all the comments so far.

So it looks like ive desided to go with drop brackets on my MJ. Ive been doing lots of reading and searching and i know the general opinion on them is a poor mans long arm or a temp fix to correct geometries. Ive also read pleanty of good stuff about them. If at all possible can i get a little more info from some of you that have acctually installed them or had them installed and are still using them and if not why? I'm basically looking for the strongest pair on the market today and maybe any tips on making the install go smooth as possible. I know most of you will want to flame me for wanting to put drop brackets instead of going with long arms but please don't. Ive made my choice and this is it. Also i know 99% of the 4x4 world would stay away from Rocky Road for any purchases but i can't seem to forget the fact they sell the comanche brace with there system. Any and all help will be appreciated. Thanks guys :cheers:

I would suggest getting a thermal gun and run it on the hiway untill it starts to overheat a bit and pull over quickly and check the difference in temps at the head and the radiator, it might help you get an idea of where to start looking for answers. Also ive heard cases of water flowing to fast through the radiator to cool it properly, ussually because someone left out the thermostat. It could also be that your cooling system is working its butt off at all times and when your around town driving it has just enouph guts left in it to keep you cool under light load situations but when you get crankin on the hiway it puts the heat generated over the top of its abilities. something like a heavily deposited (hard water and such) block will keep water from flowing where it should and limit your cooling system. Just a couple things that crossed my mind. Good luck oh ya what motor?

Also if your in that much of a pinch i would try and straighten it. take lots of time and a good amount of common sence but it can be done. things will be even weaker then the bent axle but its essentially a free fix. Seems a bit strange you can eat a tire in a week but not any bearings in the axle??? Must be a huge bend and I'm sure internals are taking a beating as well... fortune cookies says... I SEE NEW AXLE IN YOUR NEAR FUTURE .. OH AND LUCKY NUMBERS ARE 4.10-4.88

imo spend the 100 on cl and get a good used one. to be honest i don't feel so bad about reseting used gears, ive had good luck so far, but i also have a full shop and lots of shims and know what I'm doing. if you try and set up the old gears in your diff you might still need some new shims and what not. that cost money... an install kit has got to be more than 30 bucks i assume. so you may find your into the old axle for the same if not more money then a good used one. gl

Thanks for the info guys. I'm searching my buns off looking for a hp dana 30 that will bolt into the front of this thing. I keep thinking i saw a chart somwhere showing types of axles in types of jeeps? am i crazy or does anyone have any memory of this aswell. If something does exist like that i would love to check it out so i don't have to ask everytime i see something on craigslist. Seems like most people listing stuff on there leave out a lot of specifics.

Can anyone tell me if a 91 wrangler front dana 30 would fit in my truck? Also if it is a high pinion axle

Would it be possible to use a nice digital timing gun with the built in tach feature to help set gauge? run jumper wires from the truck harness to power and give signal to the tach and then rev the motor to a certain rpm and then adjust the pod till the rpms match? Just wondering incase i need to do the same thing some day.