Dechion

Here's the deal. I bought this Comnanche a few weeks ago and knew when I did the brakes were hosed. Pedal to the floor, leaking fluid, faulty master cylinder, brake light on hosed. So, I replaced the master cylinder and all the lines from the distribution block back. (they were rusted pretty bad) As well as removing the load sensing proportioning valve while I was in the neighborhood using tips found on the site. (it wasn't connected to the differential, so it wasn't doing anything anyhow) I also found one of my rear brakes had a major hardware failure. Looks like one of the rubber plugs for reaching the adjuster went missing and water got inside. Hellava rusted mess, but fixed with new hardware now. Everything is tight, everything has been flushed and bled, and the brakes work great. Only problem? The damn dash light is still on. Any ideas? Something painfully obvious I am mising? I did make sure the E-brake is released, but did not check the switch.

similar yes. Whats the benefit to going to a D44 rear end? I am mostly running this as a daily driver with occasional boat towing duties.

The only reason I think he knew of them is that there were fresh looking tool marks under the hub. Kinda like someone opended it up, poked at the mess a bit, and then closed it back up. :dunno: As to the rear end, I have one of these... http://deceptivelyrandom.files.wordpres ... to0221.jpg (which is too large to host here so I put it on my blog. I'll replace the link with a resized image later today) Not exactly sure what I have here, other than a leaking differential (added to growing list of stuff to fix) I might just get new brake shoes/adjusters/spring kits and go from there. Depends on what I find out about the rear axle from you folks. :thumbsup:

I was just wondering, when you pull off one of your brake drums and all the parts fall on the ground in a pile of twisted metal thats bad right? :ack: Something (fresh toolmarks in the area) tells me the PO knew about it and sold it to me like that anyway, without even warning me. Glad the asshat valued the $900 I gave him for the truck more than peoples safety :fs1: Anyhow, all is safe. I just need to go fetch a whole pile of new parts. Have a good weekend, I'll get off my soapbox now.

Damn that looks nice.

Nice write up, and nice truck. :thumbsup: The brake mod is on my list of things to do as well, and the way you laid it out I actually understand what I am looking at now.

Holy hell I'm a nub. :drool: Found the vacuum line had been plugged into the wrong spot on the crossover unit by the PO. I had inputs on both ports on the bottom and on the top front, with outputs on both tops and the bottom rear. :hmm: The top rear is supposed to be empty, but somehow the bottom front got plugged in there. (and looked like it belonged) Why I did not see that at first I have no clue. :oops: Thanks for the help folks, she runs much better with out having the vacuum system just kinda sucking air. :thumbsup:

Alrighty, as I am getting things working better on the old rust bucket I ran across what appears to be a missing vacuum line. :idea: According to the vacuum diagram in Chiltons there are only 3 things connected to the vacuum mainfold, on my MJ there are five that I know for sure where they go, and one empty socket that needs to go somewhere. :???: Problem is I can't find anything that is should be hooked up. :dunno: Any help would be very appreciated. here's a pic, as this thread would be kinda useless without it. I could not get shots of the egr solonoid or valve, but they both have lines on them already. I Have a shot of the air cleaner, which has two lines going to it, and the vacuum regulator (I think) that has two going to it as well.

Thanks for the tips, looks like I am one of those that will be swapping out a light socket here shortly.

A bad ground in the headlight / turn signal area or just somewhere in the harness? (or no way to tell?) I am, unfortunately, new to these trucks. I don't know much about the way they were built yet. I am learning quite a bit as I go though. Also, on the off chance that it might be related, the fog lights don't work at all.

I am sure this is going to turn out to be something simple. Kinda like one of those "if it was a snake it would have bitten you" things, but I'm stumped. :wall: My left turn signal works fine, and so does my emergency flasher for all four corners. When I turn on the lights the green dash light for the right turn signal lights up, not flashing. Whenever I try using the right turn signal the front and back both light up, but are not flashing. :dunno: Is there a seperate flasher for that? Or possibly a bulb that I am not thinking of thats out? (but they work as hazard lights?) I tried looking through the wiring diagrams in the chiltons, they are next to useless for that circuit. :???: Any ideas?

Oddly enough I had a nightmare last night that when I finally got the money scraped together and went back they were sold out... and weren't making any more. :mad: If anyone picks one of these up before me kindly post pics and measurements. That way if my nightmare comes true we will have data to work with when we have to start welding up our own. :thumbsup:

It requires the OEM bumper, based on talking to them it mounts beind the original bumper face across the factory bumper mounts and hangs the reciever underneath. 2" class 3 reciever hitch, rater 3500 gross / 300 tongue weight or 5000 gross with 500 tongue weight with weight distribution kit they sell seperately. I am linking it here, both for other that are looking for a hitch for towing and for myself when I need to find the link after I save up the cash. :thumbsup: They are going for $243.86 with free shipping. http://www.hitch-web.com/vhitch.asp?CLI ... #DRAW-TITE

Huzzah for progress. :cheers: I got the brakes re-piped and bled yesterday and they actually kinda work now. They feel a bit spongy and the brake light is still on, but they work with no (apparent) leaks. I am hoping I just need to spend a bit of time re-bleeding them. If that doesn't stop it I have either an issue with the vacuum booster, or I bought a bad master cylinder at Advance. :wall: Now that I actually have it (kinda) running I am finding more little things, so I'll add them to my fix-it list. Right turn signal doesn't work (gotta check the bulbs later today), No dome light (as in none, gone, bye bye), Fog lights not working (kinda meh on this one, but i'll get around to them) Minor oil leak, looks like the valve cover. (no surprise, i'll grab a gasket next time at the parts store) Radio acts stupid. As in it goes into store display mode and scrolls it's features across the faceplate. Something to call the manufacturer about I suppose. :hmm: Mounting bolts for the drivers seat appear to be made of fossilized rust. Not hopeful about what I am going to find under the carpet. (but the floorpan feels solid enough and looks fine from underneath.) :ack: Oh well, thats what you get when you buy someone elses problems. It will just take a bit more time than I had planned to get her fixed up. I see this as my daily driver for a long time, I just need time, cash, and parts to get the work done. Fortunately for me I found this board. :D

I'll take you up on that, once I actually have it running again. :cheers:

Now that I think about it I probably should have mentioned the specs. :doh: It's a 2 wheel drive with the 4.0 straight six Automatic trans (not sure which one, or if there are different ones) 118K original miles. Bucket seats with a bone stock interior (other than a cd player the PO put in) Known issues: Bad master cylinder (changed) Rusted steel brake lines to the rear. I'll be changing those today, weather permitting. (done) Body rust on the doors, bed and tailgate. :ack: Frame looks good though. Most likely a spring project. My oil pressure gauge is maxed out, even with the key off. Something to look in to. Drivers seat collapsed on one side and won't tilt forward. Something to work on soonish. Still has the sealed coolant system, needs to be retrofitted with a modern one. Probably spring, unless it fails. Needs a trailer hitch to tow the boat with. Rear bumper is shot. It rusted through and someone tried towing with it anyway. :nuts: Spare tire mounted underneath the bed is rusted bad enough i'll need to cut it off. :ack: Once everything else is taken care of, I'll be needing paint that did not come in a rust-oleum can. :yes:

Too bad you didn't go this weekend, I've been looking for an excuse to head out there for a while now. Something on the honeydew list always seems to pop up, but I actually have a bit of time free for a change.

I picked this up a few weeks ago, originally planning on letting my daughter drive it to and from school, and using it to tow my boat on weekends. Then I started tinkering around with it and I am really enjoying myself. Now she's got my '03 Malibu and I am fixing up a truck thats old enough to drink. It's got a long way to go, and needs quite a bit of work. On the other hand there is a lot of running left in that old horse, as long as I take the time to save her from the neglect the previous owner (and the road salt of Wisconsin) put her through. Either way, this is gonna be a fun time.

Alrighty, got up under there today (huzzah for payday) and started tinkering around. Holy hell what a rusted mess everything was. :eek: After seeing what I had to work with and reading up on here for a couple hours I decided to replace everything from the master cylinder to the wheel cylinders. I also decided to remove the load sensing valve from the circuit whil I was at it. Baded on it's condition it wasn't doing much anyhow. Today saw everything pulled off and parts bought, tomorrow should see everything installed. I'll try for pics once I am done. :yes:

Sweet, thanks for the heads up. When I got the truck the bumper looked like some idiot tried to pull down a water tower with it. It had ripped the ball right out of the bumper like an ear ring in a bar fight and bent the heck out of it. I'll be picking one up this winter to put on in the spring.

I was doing a bit of checking and I can get cut to length, bend it your self, steel brakelines at a local shop for $25 a piece. I am thinking $50 for noth and knowing that I never have to F with it again is cheap at twice the price.

Thanks much. Now to crawl under there and figure things out.

I found this one that I have been kinda looking at. Then I read the reviews, and I am no longer sure that it's not a universal truck bumper being marketed as one for the MJ. Anyhow, here's the link. http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/detai ... 63000.html Edit: a bit more looking into it and I am pretty sure it is a universal, though it does claim to come with the proper brackets for our MJ's. They have them in chrome and black diamondplate. Even if it's not exact, it's cheaper than having one made, and likely will bolt up ok. Anyone tried one of these?

Oddly, when I said compression fittings I was talking about the kind you use a flaring tool with, as opposed to the simple brass ones with the ferrule. My bad for not making that more clear, I should have called them flare nut fittings (I think). You have a really good point about going through all the lines, that is definately on my agenda for today, though parts is more of a Friday thing. (gotta wait for the boss to shake his money tree at me so I can have some too.) One thing that just occured to me, the line that I am working on is going from the proportioning valve towards the back. There are two lines running parallel to each other. Every other brake system I have worked on had one line running to a "T" connetor near the rear differential. Is that the case here as well or do I have seperate lines from the proportioning valve to each wheel? I know I can just look, but I am stuck at work and can't at the moment. I also can't seem to find a hydraulic diagram online. ~Brad

I replaced my Master Cylinder a week or so ago, then finally managed to get the damn real bleeder valves unstuck (and replaced what was left of them). I go to bleed and what do I find? Busted a brake line on the drives side about halfway back. I have replaced steel line on other trucks before by removing the bad section plus a few inches and splicing in steel tubing with compression fittings. Any known issues with using that method on our systems? (89 MJ in my case) I don't think it will be an issue, but it never hurts to ask a room full of folks that know what they are talking about. ~Brad