VorTekX

Gonna hook my trickle charger up tomorrow. Fuel filter is siting in my garage ready to go, will get replacement rubber hoses tomorrow as the ones connecting to the filter are in pretty bad shape.

Alright so I got the cap off. When I first removed the cap and pressed the pin inwards, no fuel leaked out. I got a pressure gauge from AutoZone and attached it to the valve and turned the key to the on position. The fuel pressure barely made it to 10 PSI, and within 40 seconds it had dropped to about 5 PSI. I cranked the engine for a couple of seconds and the PSI struggled to reach 20, where it then rapidly lost pressure after letting go of the key. Its worth noting that I've never done a fuel pressure test before, so maybe the reading was inaccurate. I simply twisted the brass cap at the gauge end onto the Schrader valve. Fuel is definitely getting to the rail, as when I removed the gauge fuel started squirting out and I had to throw a towel under the valve. I have not messed with the fuel pressure regulator or anything else on the rail or in the engine bay. The only component I did NOT change out was the fuel filter.

I ordered as well, just curious to see what anyone else had heard. They said the anticipated ship date was somewhere around June. Would be nice to have a status update from their end.

I've sprayed the valve cap with pb blaster 3 times and freeze off, the thing will not move whatsoever. Pliers won't grip and neither will my pipe wrench, granted it's a harbor freight one. However, there is definitely fuel leaving the tank, as the line going to the filter leaked fuel when I disconnected it. Will go back out to try and get the cap off in a few mins.

Found the valve, there doesn't seem to be any fuel leaking from it. I hear the fuel pump run when I turn the key to the on position but I'll disconnect the fuel pump hose and see if any fuel comes out.

Is that the cap located in the middle of the rail?

I'll check the lines tomorrow then

Today I tried to start my truck after replacing almost everything from the fuel filter backwards. I filled up the tank with about 4 gallons of gas total. 1.5 gallons was from the old comanche tank, and that gas was quite old, I think I had filled it up in September 2022. I had it running on that gas very shortly during march. The other 2.5 gallons of gas was newer from a Cherokee tank that had been sitting since around march. I primed the fuel pump twice by switching the key to on. When I turned the key to start, the engine started turn over but would continue to do so and not start. My REM read 8.9 volts as the engine attempted to turn over. I got my multimeter and tested the battery twice, on reading before I cranked it again was 12 volts and the one after a second attempt was 11.7 volts. I'm pretty sure I matched the 3/8s and 5/16ths lines correctly when reattaching everything, but if I'm correct if I had misplaced the fuel lines the truck would not turn over at all? Maybe I'm wrong and need to check that again. The pump I bought was not the carter brand but the 1050039 Brute Power brand from rock auto. I don't think the brand new pump should be an issue though. Additionally, the engine was making an intermittent ticking sound every 7 seconds after turning the engine off, which I attached a video of. Do I need to just add more gas or get newer gas? I have about 7.5 gallons left of the Cherokee gas I can put in before I need to go to the pump. IMG-2987.MOV

Has anyone heard an update when the groupbuy orders are going to be shipped?

The latch in the middle catches, and so does the passenger side. It's just the drivers side that has this issue, so like what many have said I'm thinking its just that the latch on the hood is busted or out of alignment. Ill try and hammer it back to shape, but maybe its just worth finding a new hood and swaping the latches over.

So I went out today and when I pushed the "bent" side down it was definitely bouncy. I also noticed that there is some deformation on the drivers side part of the crossmember. I showed the passenger side as well which is fine.

I'll go outside today to test that

I was able to get it off, thanks

I had always thought that my hood was dented upwards but yesterday I took a closer look from the front and started to think that it may not be the hood at all and that the drivers side fender and respective side of the front clip are sagging downwards. When I bought the truck the PO said it had been in no accidents but the drivers side fender also has a small dent inwards which leaves me questioning that. Also the drivers side hood spring is slightly bent. Any thoughts on this and how I should proceed to fix this? I have no experience with body work.

Is the yoke the thing it was connected to at the diff?

So I was able to get the 4 8 mm bolts holding it in off, as well as the two retaining clips, but I have no idea how to get the thing to move! I sprayed the U-joint with PB blaster and let it sit but when I go to get it off tomorrow, do I need to hammer it towards the transfer case or towards the diff?

If you're upgrading the battery cables there's a "big 7" kit on jeepcables.com

Ended up using cable ties to secure the pump. The pump contacts the gauge reader ground. Not sure if that will be a problem down the line but there's no great way to get it to stay. The mounting system kinda sucks for 87 dollars.

Go through as many of cruisers tips as possible before replacing the O2 sensor. The 02 sensors are sold on rock auto, you want an upstream sensor. How many miles does your truck have? Usually need to replace the sensor around 80k.

Maybe your O2 sensor went bad? Is the fuel intake system the only thing you changed before starting it up again? 11-13 MPG is still pretty low assuming you have a stock setup regarding wheels.

Thanks, I'll order that pump now

I recently bought the JPSU-6 MTS replacement sending unit as my fuel pump still worked and I thought I could swap it in. However when I finally went to swap it in, it doesn't seem to fit in the rubber mount that came with the kit. I read that I should get a Bosch unit off roackauto but it doesn't seem like they sell one anymore. Is there a specific brand I should buy that is compatible with the MTS unit? This one looks like it should work but I'm not sure: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=11961517&cc=1181584&pt=6256&jsn=853.

I can't seem to find OEM ones that fit directly from the filler neck to the tank. Is the only solution to buy Cherokee hoses and cut them down to fit?

If you still have these for both sides I'm still in the market

I know phoenix graphics reproduces this decal, but do they print in custom colors? I've loved this decal but the orange doesn't go with the color I have on my MJ, would like to get this decal in just plain white.