shark

Well I think its bad @$$. Just remember guys, that thing would have a 425HP 6.1 liter Hemi and all wheel drive. It would be faster than the SVT Lightning and the Ram SRT10. Would probably be the fastest factory hot rod street truck ever made.

you can use a strap clamp or chain clamp to hold the pulley while you tighten the bolts. they are cheap at harbor freight.

be smarter than the jeep. take your time and observe how things are put together before you start wrenching.

if you grab the brake booster there might be a spacer between it and the booster. youll need that too. can't remember what years that applies to.

If you're looking at the back of the Jeep, go to the other end. :yes: LOL! good point. :cheers:

the pulley itself doesnt have a bearing. it spins on a shaft that goes into the pump. a new pump should fix your problem.

he said please don't post the pic but then i also like to pirate music so here it is. http://www.cherokeesrt8.com/forums/show ... hp?t=38982

the bumper is mounted using 2 brackets on either side of the frame. those brackets are bolted to the frame using the 3 bolts that these guys are talking about. if youre looking at the front of the jeep the bolts point inward toward the block. you are unbolting the brackets from the frame as opposed to unbolting the bumper from the brackets. quick google image search: yes, i know its a 97+XJ but they didnt change how the bumper mounts. anyway, the arrows point to the bolts needing removal but keep in mind that the bumper is still attached. this is what it would look like if the bumper was already removed.

fond someone parting out a XJ with the newer parts. it'll have to be pre '95 when they went to the chyrsler column. rock auto says the door lock cylinders are good from '81 - '97 so youre safe there. i think they went to the rubber headed key around '91?? so that has the donor narrowed down to a '91ish to '94. good luck. call the non-"u-pull-it" junk yards or look on craigslist.

the pulley just bolts over the hub that comes out of the pump. unless yours is bent it shouldnt be causing a problem.

there are lots of stuff that can be made to work from a 97+ XJ. Some is a direct bolt in but most is not. the grill, front bumper and fenders are a direct bolt in. 4 door doors fit but the striker needs to be moved. the door mirrors are a direct swap and theyre bigger. the rear axle is swappable but the spring perches will need to be moved. the master cylinder and booster is a good swap. better braking power. I'm using a 97+ windshield washer bottle because they are inside the drivers fender and i wanted to clean up the engine bay up a bit. ill be using the vapor canister from a 97+ because they mount under the body for a less cluttered engine bay. the dash will bolt in but the gauges won't work with your ecm. transmission would bolt up if you have a 4.0 but not sure about the tcu. use the radiator to convert to a non-pressurized cooling system. etc. and on and on... anything can be made to fit.

not sure i understand the question. what are you trying to accomplish?

front or rear?

Ive repaired XJ's with more damage than that. If you're going to be doing the work yourself it is definitely worth fixing. Buy a cheap XJ to use as a daily driver so you can take your time and build your MJ right. Build the Jeep you always wanted it to be. That's what i would do, anyway.

it would be so cool to own one of those. too bad it would be real expensive to enjoy. those thing only get like 1 or 2 mpg's.

Great looking Jeep. Got a build thread somewhere that i can look at? what are the specs on your stroker?

its not the best looking tube bumper. i would have grabbed it if it was.

not bad, an easier solution would be to cut out the infected area and cut a peice of scrap sheet to fit and self-tap screw the new panel over the area and reinstall the cap. Actually, your method just promotes more rust in that area. i didnt say it was better. just easier. i def agree in welding in a new panel, then prep and paint but thats not always easy for the average DIY'er. there is a way to do what i suggested to deter rust as well.

i was there a week ago. only one MJ. it had a home made tube bumper. maybe they got some in. i did see on craigslist lately that this other JY had a comanche. call and ask how much for a bumper. while your in clearwater you can check the LKQ there too. BIG 3 PULL AND SAVE AUTO PARTS 3595 118 AVE N. CLEARWATER, FL 33762 (727)572-4200 http://tampa.craigslist.org/pnl/pts/1847735008.html

Thinking about this for my new headliner material. http://www.denverfabrics.com/catalog_it ... tmID=BF307 pulled out the old bare panel yesterday along with all the interior panels so i can clean them a bit easier.

just bought this coolant overflow bottle off ebay for $2 plus shipping to replace the ugly old overflow bottle. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/JZP-602-025-01/ i think I'm going to put it where the vapor canister is now and use a newer style box canister from a newer XJ and run the lines to the box under the cad somewhere. or i can put the bottle up front where the battery is now after i relocate the battery under the bed. I'm trying to clean up the engine compartment.

got a pic of the damage?

not bad, an easier solution would be to cut out the infected area and cut a peice of scrap sheet to fit and self-tap screw the new panel over the area and reinstall the cap.

try the paint and body forum at naxja.

Me too!