ExpatMJGuy

Well in his dash doesn't help...

I'm assuming this is the place? It's coming up as Maumee but it is near Toledo. Do you know if they ship? Otherwise I'll be making an eventual trip to Lancaster OH to visit my cousin who owns an upholstery shop to get my seats redone hopefully this spring/summer.

Here's a hunt for all our Canadian, and Northerners who live near the border... Looking for a metric cluster for an 88 with tach. If everything goes according to plan I'm hoping to have my MJ on the boat to Australia in about a year. Since all roads are in kilometers figured it might be nice to have a metric cluster swapped out right before I put it on the boat. Gives me plenty of time to come up with one.

Haven’t googled that yet because I just haven’t thought that far out yet. Now it sounds like I’ll be moving the pedal and clutch assemblies. At least I know I need to start researching that. Right now I’m moving the 97+ driveline. The 01 was bought with a blown engine and I’m taking that from the 99. I plan to horde the 97+ wire harness from the 99 in the event the engine ever dies, and at that time I’ll do the HO swap over. I would take the axles to a local shop if it wasn’t going through customs and foreign DOT inspections. I don’t want them to even question the validity of the weld line in the drive shaft.

I’m sticking with the stock tire size until gets to Australia. Ride heights and tire sizes are strictly regulated there. Once it’s fully imported and registered I’ll get with the local community and see what I can “get away with!” It won’t be extreme as what you find here no matter what. XJ will stay at my parents house in the barn till 2026 when it becomes eligible for import. Also strict rules importing Left hand drive cars. May have to modify the suspension for import but I’ll have experience by then. It’s on a 3in lift with 246/75/16 tires.

Nope, don't think it's 3.73. It should be 3.55 I just can't read! I was just thinking I should go scoop up that axle if it makes sense and it's only $80! Please do tell about the clutch and brake pedal stuff because I haven't gotten that far. Remember I am disassembling the 99XJ that the AX15 came out of. If I have to migrate the clutch, brake pedal, master cylinder I'll do it. Speaking of when I pulled the AX-5 out of the 86 it seemed different than when I pulled the AX-15 from the 99. Right now I'm tracking 2 shopping list 01 XJ - D30 Front Axle (gonna try to get that tomorrow for $80) - AW4 4x4 tranny (gotta find this) - Np232 or 231 Transfer case (gotta find this) - Shortened Rear drive shaft (will buy online not modify due to possible international shipping and overseas inspections) - Front drive shaft (will take from 99XJ) - Tranny cross member (Recycle from old AW4) - shift linkage (thinking about a Novak conversion kit old linkage was real rusty) 88MJ - D30 Front Axle (3.07 coming from 99XJ) - AX15 4x4 tranny (coming from 99XJ) - Np231 Transfer case (coming from 99XJ) - Shortened Rear drive shaft (will buy online not modify due to possible international shipping and overseas inspections) - Front drive shaft (wondering if I can use 86MJ drive shaft if not buy it online as well) - Tranny cross member (coming from 99XJ) - Longer Speedometer Cable (gotta find this) - Shift Linkage (same Novak conversion kit should do) So outside of that AW4 with transfer case most of the big ticket items are covered. At least from what I'm tracking. I could be missing things.

I got a lot of info off this chart. If I'm understanding correctly you can have up to 6 Dana30 front axles based on the information in the table above? And looking at this I caught myself on my 01 XJ. It should have a 3.55 rear Chrysler 8.25 reading this table again. That helps clarify the 3.73 and the 3.55 discrepancy. So this means the 99XJ front axle goes to the 88MJ with it being a 4.0 Manual seeing they should both be 3.07. The "Facebook special" with the 3.55 non-CAD should go to the 01 XJ, and seeing I have a 2.6v8 originally in the 86MJ I should probably let that go, the non-CAD is stronger anyways... Am I correct? If so I know the actuator is all mechanical next up is figuring out the mechanics of a CAD dash with a non-CAC axle for the dash.

It might be on backwards. I did try to rub the grease off and when I did all I got was blank tag.

I’m trying to prevent gear binding. Ensuring I have a gear ratio in front that works with gear ratio in the back. Numbers aren’t lining up exactly between the front and back. I was thinking about when you said spin the tires and count the amount of times the pinion rotates and said drive shaft on accident. I was asking about the 3.07 manual. The matching d30 front axle pinion should only rotate 3 times correct?

Why didn’t I think of that?!? Here’s what I’m stuck on. How does 3.55 work with the 3.73? Is it compensation for the length of the drive shaft? What is the standard ratio for a d30 with the manual 3.07 rear drive shaft? Should rotate 3 even up front?

I’m not finding tags on ANYTHING other than what’s on the d35 diff cover which isn’t giving me much. 86MJ 88MJ 99 XJ 01XJ

So I have an 86 parts MJ for my being restored 88 MJ and a 99 Parts XJ that has parts planned to go towards my MJ and other 01 XJ. I've been trying to do some homework and piece together what I have to see if I can make it work and what I will need and start slowly accumulating parts as they become available for a decent price. I've done some work but still haven't found stock gear ratios for the DANA 30. Plus I'll admit I went to automotive school 14 years ago and since I haven't used it so I don't remember much about calculating gear ratios. With that said here's what I have and what I know about it. I plan to leave all vehicles at current heights due to possibly moving internationally where lift kits are much more restrictive. Also nothing has tags anymore so I'm going off what I have found here in the forums... 1986 2.8v6 MJ (Parts Jeep) useless AX-5 4wd with np207 stock ride height DANA 30 CAD axle DANA 35 C-Clip 27 Spline (2.8v6 had fuel saver package 3.31:1) 1988 4.0 MJ 2wd Pioneer (Being Restored) Currently has Peugeot 2wd Transmission Intend using AX-15 from 1999 parts XJ with NP 231 stock ride height don't plan on doing anything difficult with it but would like to get it on beaches\ fire break type trails. 2wd Float Axle DANA 35 C-Clip 27 Spline (4.0 w/Manual came with 3.07:1) 1999 4.0 XJ 4WD Sport (Parts Jeep) AX-15 planning to move to 88MJ along with NP231 3 in cheap crap lift with 31s DANA 30 High Pinion Non-CAD Axle Chrysler 8.25 29 Spline (4.0 w/Manual came with 3.07:1) {Have paperwork where lift was installed no mention of gear change} This info was found in the factory build order: DJH Dana M30/181MM Front Axle DMM AXLE RATIO - 3.07 DRA REAR AXLE - CORPORATE 8.25 2001 4.0 XJ Limited (Being Restored) Will Need 4wd AW4 Transmission with Transfer Case 3in Rough Country Lift w/ 246/75/16 tires 2WD Float Axle Chrysler 8.25 29 Spline (4.0 w/Auto “Towing Package” came with 3.73:1) This info was found in the factory build order: DMD AXLE RATIO - 3.55 DRA REAR AXLE - CORPORATE 8.25 I have also found online a guy selling a non-CAD Dana 30 with 3:55 gear set for $80. If useful I might get it due to lack of space for pulling a second vehicle into my garage at once. I also understand that non-CAD axles tend to be stronger. I'm struggling to understand what I can mix and match with what. If I'm reading this right buy the used front axle, put it in the 01 XJ to match the new Auto, then use the front axle off the 99 XJ for the 88 MJ? Then sell or scrap the CAD DANA 30? I can then use the 2wd axles to keep my parts vehicles rolling for now. Yeah? I'm not crazy? Brain hurts!

$250 bucks?!? I thought I was doing good with my 01 XJ at $800! I love that color combo! It is my second favorite! My very first Jeep was a Moss Green 2 door 2wd 96 XJ with the tan interior. Good memories! Unfortunately it died in an accident when the other guy going down the road decided to see what my side of the yellow line was like. Next one was my favorite color combo. Another 96 in Flame Red with an Agate Gray Interior. Had that thing over 10 years! Still kick myself dirt selling it!

So... I started this project in the Spring of 2019! Many things have gotten in the way to even keep me from starting. My health, work, other projects including my MJ but I need to get projects wrapped up and to stopping points due to moving preparations all while still planning for a back surgery this summer! My 99 XJ has a huge rust problem and a title issue. I have the title but it's an out of state salvage title due to it being recovered from a theft. When it was brought to Georgia the out of state inspection wasn't good enough and required reinspection by a GA DOT inspector. Had it done and it FAILED even though it had passed in another state. Inspector said it wouldn't pass until I repaired a lot of the rust. It's a 4x4 sport with an ax-15 manual transmission. Super clean until you decide to actually look under it! Otherwise mechanically it is in amazing shape. So I was driving to work one day and a mom and pop mechanic shop had an a 2001 XJ Limited sitting out front with a FOR SALE sign in it. I was curious so I checked it out without even being serious. Shop owner said he had done a lot of work on it over the years his customer's daughter was driving it when it overheated and she drove it the rest of the way home anyways which overheated it to the point the engine was toast! Otherwise the Jeep was in excellent shape and the owner needed to sell it and intended to use the money to pay his previous repair bills. I asked him what he wanted out of it, he said I bet you can get it sub $1000. I negotiated and got it for $800!!! It's 2wd and an auto but I don't care! Interior is in OK shape but again don't care. The biggest thing is the body is absolutely rust free and outside of one repairable minor dent the body is super straight! So my plan is to take the engine out of my 99 and put it in my 01 and use the ax-15 in my 88MJ when it do an eventual 4wd conversion. I haven't decided where the front axle from my 99 is going yet. It will either go in my XJ or my MJ as well for a 4wd conversion. I'm also not a fan of tan interiors so I plan to move my grey interior from my 99 to the 01 as well. I have a cousin who owns an upholstery shop so I plan to get the leather limited seats reupholstered at some point. Then I can also keep the power heated seats. So 4 years later I'm finally getting to the project and have been working on it the last couple of weeks! I only took a few still pictures, but that's mainly because I decided to film it with my go pro. This way during reassembly I can literally watch how I took it apart to remember how things go back together. Maybe I'll post it on YouTube sometime! Started pulling the bad engine out of 01. I labeled EVERYTHING since the good engine out of the 99 is going in this Jeep. I put bolts back in wherever I could after disassembly and used mini Pringles cans with labels on the lids for all the other bolts. Had a heck of a time getting the torque converter bolts out with the engine seized. I wound up pulling the oil pan off and removing the piston caps off the crank shaft. This would also allow me a chance to get a physical look at the bottom end of a jacked engine! I had a hard time getting the camera in place to take the pic but the 5th cylinder head is cracked. With the caps removed the crankshaft turned freely. But I got the engine and the transmission out without many issues otherwise. 2 bad engines ready to go to scrap! So then we pushed the 01 out and began the same job on the 99! Much more difficult job even though I just had the experience of doing it recently! Mainly due to rusty bolts! So I decided not to cut anything and label everything even though I don't currently have a plan to use the harness. But I decided it would be smart to label everything in the event I decide to update my Comanche engine to a High Output engine later. I know a manual PCM module can't be easy to find! And it brings it me to this weekend. I spend part of the weekend converting the good engine from a manual to an automatic. I've been converting the exhaust manifold from the pre 99 style to the 00+ style as well as converting the rear of the engine from a clutch setup to a flywheel torque converter setup. Now I need to ensure the timing is right, and load her back in the engine bay. Hopefully next update, the engine is in!

This is so cool. I've been tempted to cut my parts MJ in half to do just this! I've been trying to save it but I've seriously been on the fence sense I saw it had decent collision damage up front! I'm just a beginner welder, like 3 weekends of Saturday classes with a stick welder and a few times after actually fixing some brackets. I don't have the confidence to go this big yet! But I want to!!! This goes above and beyond what I was thinking with just a camper top to store the food, camping gear, and keep things dry! Amazing!

Did you ever find the Jeep your looking for? If you don't mind a little front end body work I might have exactly what you need.

I know this thread is long gone by now, but what is the name of this Jeep Junkyard? I live in Atlanta so it's a hike but I'll be most likely be hunting items for a 2wd to 4wd conversion soon.

Good to know. I walked away and had dinner to think about it. I think I'm going to cut it away and deal with it down the road. I seriously think these are parts I can find in a pull-a-part easy if nothing else dirt cheap. There's enough rust under this XJ that reconditioning cheap linkage probably isn't worth it. Especially considering this transmission is going to be in a future project and not something needed right this second. I borrowed an engine hoist from a buddy a long time ago, and I need to get it back to him. I got to get this engine in my good XJ hopefully before the end of the weekend so I gotta keep moving.

I actually saw this when I used the site's search feature to find out what I'm looking for but unfortunately, it doesn't do me any good. I only have the NP207 with the AX-5 or the AX-15 with the NP231 for a 99XJ linkage to work with.

Hey everyone. So I'm in the middle of my 99 XJ part out. My plan is to put the AX-15 from my 99 XJ and drop it in my 88 MJ at some point and do a 4wd and Peugeot tranny conversion simultaneously. I'm about ready to pull the actual tranny and engine and I'm pretty much down to a few plugs and the transfer case shift linkage. The linkage is being a real PITA. Since my main 88 MJ is 2wd and my 86 parts MJ has a NP 207 transfer case I can't use that as a viable example of the linkage for the NP 231 transfer case. So first off how much of that 99 transfer case linkage is useable on a 88 MJ? Also has anyone used anything aftermarket in an MJ such as a Novak conversion kit? Also this parts Jeep has been up north for a long time. So I'm thinking about if it's overall worth attempting to save the linkage. I really don't want to take the interior apart to remove the bracket. Especially if it's a part I can't use and in meh condition. If I need to do something different or it's better to do something different I most likely will just cut the linkage.

Here in Georgia, I bought a new open trailer from Tractor Supply company to save from roughing up the bed of my shinny new Pro-4x Frontier when I do things like take fluid leaking engines to scrap or bring my mom's ATV over to maintain it. County tax collectors office looked at the receipt and did it under a bill of sale. He said all trailers in the state of Georgia are bill of sale and they don't issue a title. When I lived in Tennessee it got crazier. In Tennessee you don't need a license plate on a trailer at all as long as it is being pulled by a vehicle with Tennessee registration and doesn't leave the state. Trailer registration is OPTIONAL there but if you do get a proper registration for your trailer they issue a title.

I've thought about this. I'm not opposed to swapping the titled one for a non-titled one to achieve this and build a trailer as well... My understanding is there's no need for a title for a trailer. They are "homemade". Could be a win-win.

Yeah, I'm not dealing with it. I went to school to be an auto tech not a body man. I'm going to keep striping it down and give someone a nice shell. (Well I thought it was nicer) Maybe I'll get $800 for it with the title. Cab Shell, Bed, axles. As long as someone can use a titled MJ to keep one of these on the road. I was just trying to decide if I should keep going or not with the driveline pull. I was starting to think if I had to go to plan C... maybe a trailer with the back half. Just don't want to destroy a clean title vehicle.

Went out to get clarification pics this morning. Apparently I'm blind as a bat. There is some crumpling on the drivers side outer frame rail albeit minor. When I looked last night I only looked underneath and on the inside where the steering box is and was tired. New day fresh eyes. I posted the pics clarifying the passenger and what I found on the drivers. Again, I'm not a body guy, and I've only learned bare bones basics of welding so I'm learning as I go. Here's the full length of the passenger frame rail from the bottom. You can see the stiffener used back by the motor mount near the spring and shocks. Better veiw of just the reinforcements. Outside of the Frame Rail Passenger. Top of Driver's side and what I was mostly basing my opinion on last night. Bottom of Driver's Frame Rail Full length of bottom of Driver's Frame Rail bottom Outside of Driver's Frame Rail where I found the crumple. My fingers are there to give a depth of the crumple. Since it is smaller it's hard to get a good 3d feel of this with a picture.

Drivers side is good. Floor boards are good. The body has got several dings and dents especially around the bed but that hasn’t bothered me because that can be dealt with when prepping for paint. It’s a good southern truck other than this spot. Also… In the first pic I was trying to give an overall size of the hole. Second more detail of the hole. Third is even more detail and I’m pointing towards the weld line. Fourth is the frame rail from underneath. You can see where someone tried to do some stiffening before. I’ll go in later today and see if I can take a better pic of it from the bottom. In the fifth pic I was attempting to do two things at once. Show where the front bumper support was welded before and show the extent of the rot at the sway bar connection. Maybe I’ll see if I can clarify this as well. Since this seems repairable, I don’t feel I’m wasting my time going back to pulling the engine. It will most likely be easier to make these repairs with a toast engine out of the way. I’ll get myself ready and get those pics in an hour or two.