LarryH88bt

^^^^^^^^ :thumbsup: That's nice. Will have to remember that. I've got old XJ seats right now that are absolute garbage. Did they just bolt in?

Ok cool. That's sort of what I did with the suzuki. I took the spare tire and most of my kit and stuck it in the bed.

Dolly may do it then, even better if they come with brakes, and the plow in the bed will be good for some pressure on that rear height valve. I haven't physically seen the CJ so I don't even know if it has the right brackets for a flat tow. I would prefer flat tow if the dolly does not have brakes since then the dolly would just add dead weight... As for the valid plates, that's the least of my worries. I can take the plates off my XJ.

My 88 MJ is a metric ton, 2200lbs haul capacity and 5000lbs tow capacity. I flat towed a suzuki samurai which weighs in at just under 2100lbs unloaded but mine had 5, 31 inch tires and a bunch of trail gear. So maybe add another 150lbs? Guestimate I flat towed 2250, and had no trouble what so ever. I think the problem I would run into is if pulling a trailer. A 2200lbs trailer with brakes plus a 2300lbs load would be 4500lbs. MJ curb weight 3500lbs with a long bed and a dana 44. This a bad idea? I would love to try it but Uhaul would not give me a trailer because the load is heavier than 80% of the tow vehicle. 4500x.8=3600. Or, if I owned a trailer, I've done some research, they only weight about 1800 unloaded; be more comfortable with only 4100lbs behind the MJ. (I do take into consideration the 20 year old booster and master cylinder and use the tranny alot, can do 65 in 2nd). Anyway, I saw a 60's CJ5 with a plow (gosh it might be closer to 2500lbs with the plow) for sale, dreamed I'd bring it home but only if I could rent a trailer. Now I'm thinking flat tow since the suzuki was cake. But, can I pull a 1960 drivetrain at 60mph? I'm a safety conscious person, I'd probably just drive the cj home on backroads and 'bond' with it.

I've never gotten Rustoleum to work properly. It scratches, peels, and chips pretty easy. But, it works for the budget repairs and lasts a couple years at least until it needs some patching. I'd much prefer por15 if I felt like paying that much.

Same here. My XJ brakes grab when wet until I roll a ways and brake a few times. On the MJ, the rears squeel like a dump truck, grab a bit the first couple stops then they clear out.

That was my first reaction when I saw the pics of the steering and control arms. Personally, I'd redo the whole thing.

I say tow it. An expedition is a 3/4 ton? Should be cake for a 3000# MJ.

Get rid of those pain-in-the-@$$ spring clamps that come standard and use good ol fashioned screw hose clamps. Then if it leaks down the line, another turn or two on the screw and it should stop leaking. And less chances of that spring clamp hitting you in the face when it slips out of the pliars as you try and squeeze the hose back in :fs1:

Yeah it's just a little plastic tab holding it. Popped it out and now I can enjoy sweet silence until the motor fires the my exhaust that makes it sound like an 8 at idle.

I did my radiator recently, all I did to bleed out the air was fill it at the bottle and squeeze the upper radiator hose to burp it. Eventually it stopped blowing bubbles and the coolant stayed put. Then run it for a while and repeat once the engine is cold.

I've never had a problem with Frams but I'll keep away from them now. In fact I just changed the filter on both my XJ and MJ. I run synthetic in both so I want to get into the habit of changing the filter half way through the life of the oil since I don't use the fancy oil filters.

Frame rot if you live in the snow states. Rust in the floor panels of the cab if you live in the snow states. Both are fixable but you don't want anything major. Check for rusty brakes line too, those can pop under hard braking.

I can't speak for plowing but I can comment on the frame/unibody. Mine was destroyed by rust on the passenger side, right in front of forward rear spring hanger, it held on by a thread but was completely fixable. I've got the same damage on the driver side but not as bad. It will probably be another $175 fix at the shop either way. I would imagine plowing would break it with enough rust damage.

Found the little black buzzer next to the fuse box. Looks like I need to unscrew the fuse box to get it off but at least I know where the sucker is. Thanks gang.

I'll take a look near the fuse box. Funny thing is I've left my headlights on and killed the battery once because the buzzer for that is busted. So before I step out I tend to push the headlight button in just in case ;) I even do this on my XJ which has all working buzzers.

:fs1: :mad: I hate it, it drives me mad. Everytime I put the key in the ignition it yells at me telling me I put the key in. Yes I know the key is in. I think the buzzer is inside the steering column, is there anyway to disable it without having to tear apart the column? I don't have any buzzers left except for this one; no 'door open' or 'lights on' buzzer.

Unit bearing?

I took the driveshaft out and went for a ride, the clicking is still there. All the u-joints on the shaft were in good condition as was the slip. Gonna have to take a closer look at the axle joints and check around the wheels for anything that may be hitting them as it turns.

I'll try again but it doesn't seem like there's any major problems so I may just leave it. If there's a chance of the driveshaft exploding, then I'll rethink it, or yank the shaft and go 2wd with a low range :D . I don't wheel it, it's a short trip daily driver and occasional tow rig.

Checked em as best I could, jacked up each wheel and gave it a spin, I couldn't hear anything clicking. The caps all looked in good shape. Spun the driveshaft, no play that I could see, no clicking I could hear, just the gears catching inside the case. The spline connection was perfectly tight too. :dunno: I may still pull the driveshaft someday but I have such little free time to play around.

I've had a steady clicking sound for a few weeks now, only when moving, I think it's a bad u-joint. How can I pinpoint which one is suspect? I also think I have a bad bearing somewhere, I can hear a wheeze/squeel, also only while moving. I think the test for this is jacking up each wheel and checking for play? Or is that ball joints?

Your fan should come on before the light I would think. Maybe your fan is busted. And MJ and XJ 4.0's absolutely need that fan or it will get too hot. The fan should come on at about 215? Not sure about the light. Normal is 210.

Got some at sears hardware, 45 pennies a piece. Now I need a suitable fan and new wiring.

Cool, thanks.