LarryH88bt

Control arms? Coil spring? I had a clunk the front of my subaru, turned out to be a broken coil spring in the strut.

Turned the white box a couple times so the plunger was compressed a bit, didn't change much. I got on the highway and manually shifted from 3rd to OD a few times. The RPM's do drop going into OD but still stay higher than they used to. And it still stays in 3rd around town, chugs along around 1900 at 40mph, used to go into overdrive around there and roll around at about 1500 at 45mph. Going to check under the hood again because I did have to remove the throttle cable to do the injectors. Might as well readjust the TPS again while I'm there.

Aw4 yes, stock 235x75 tires. My 'used to be' was just a guesstimate. I adjusted the TPS a while ago, haven't touched it since. I'll have to try moving the TC thingy near the brake pedal. Should it be compressed or totally off the brake pedal? Driving my Subaru on the highway the other day, a four cylinder, I watched the RPM, same as the jeep in OD, so my Jeep is definitely too high, a straight 6 should not be turning as fast as a little four banger. I do 'feel' it going to overdrive, I can manually move the shifter down to third and the RPM's go up, pop it back into OD but the RPM's don't drop as much as they should. So the TC isn't locking? Thanks.

88 renix 4.0 auto. Did a 2000WJ master cyl and booster upgrade and Ford 19lbs v8 injectors not too long ago. It runs and stops far better but the RPM's have changed, so has the overdrive. Once its all nice and warm it idles in park at 900, which seems high, the old injectors it idled around 500-600. Also the overdrive isn't kicking in until almost 50. It used to go into OD around 40. And at highway speeds, it still seems high, doing 55 I'm almost at 2000 rpm, used to only be around 1600 in overdrive at 55. 60-65 I'm closer to 2500 rpm, again, used to be around 300-400 rpm lower before I changed the injectors. I did adjust the torque converter thingy, the white box at the brake pedal, and the TC works just fine. I had to remove the throttle cables to do the injectors but everything there seems in order. Or were the old injectors just total junk and this is how its supposed to be? Could the 10 overbore, pistons, and the HO 4.0 camshaft be part of it?

I second checking the calipers themselves. Take them off and use a big ol' pair of pliers to see if they compress.

Guess I'll look into it. Rather just do a race fuel cell and go racing but not there yet. :brows:

Sending unit fail. Can't get another. My tank is fine, it's the sender. I'm on my second one and it's leaking. One of the 16 gallon, square, universal fuel injection tanks. I'd strap it right in the bed or fab up from brackets and hang it right where the original is.

It's easy with a little elbow grease. Unscrew the little metal pressure release valve and push the pin to let out the pressure. There's two fuel lines, one at the front, one at the back of the fuel rail, just unplug those and enjoy the smell of gasoline on your skin for the next 24 hours. Unclip the electrical connections from the injectors. Leave the pressure regulator on the rail and unplug the vacuum line. Unbolt the fuel rail from the intake, and then start jimmying the whole thing out. The injectors are held into the rail with little clips but leave these on, all the injectors will come out of the head together then remove them from the rail on the bench. Mine took a lot of jimmying and persuasion because the O-rings in there are a nice tight fit. Might have to use some spray lube to help them out. Be careful not to jimmy too hard or you can bend the rail. New injectors into the rail, clip them in, insert all 6 into the head at once with the rail. Use some motor oil on the o-rings, plug everything in, enjoy restored performance. I idled mine for while to check for leaks then did some short drives and checked again.

Universal fit fuel injection gas tank Only 16 gallons but it's square(ish) so fitment shouldn't be that bad. Can mount it in the bed pretty easy pending local laws. And as far as I know, if their pump moves the fuel at a high enough psi it will work fine. It's probably the next best thing to a fuel cell. Their tech/install section Thoughts? The dakota swap seems inconvenient. Didn't see any tanks listed on rockauto. Wrecker yard near me is hit or miss and sometimes expensive since they pull parts themselves. Tanks Inc.

Reviving this old thread instead of doing a new one. I also ground down my pedal too much. I tried to slap on a couple tack welds but it didn't work. I sort of have it fixed but the switch needs to be angled correctly for them to work. Too high up and the lights are always on, too far down and they are always on. It's just kind of disconcerting to have it like that because there's no way to lock it in place. Like the duct tape fix, I used a couple pieces of bailing wire hooked around the switch plate. I'll have to try the nylon insert removal. But isn't the bolt too loose? Anyone try a universal brake light switch? Can't picture it in my head how to install one.

Got it on the road, big difference. It will be even better when I get some good brake pads. Problem with the light switch still, Right now I have a couple pieces of bailing wire hooked around the switch to give it some more surface. I think I might have to tack weld a small bead to the plunger for a more perm fix.

^^^^ That's what I'm thinking. Just some auxillary lights on their own switch. But can they be used on the road?

Got the new booster and master in. Hooking up the lines from the master to the prop was painful. I had all the right fittings, used a piece of baling wire as a mock up, bent the lines no sweat, flared them perfectly, then the suckers just wouldn't line up. Naturally. If the fitting and the line weren't perfectly aligned the fitting wouldn't thread. Hopefully the master is bled correctly because I do not want to take those lines off again. May have also shaved off a teeny bit too much from the rod. Brakes lights didn't come on but I didn't quite have everything in the right place, just checked it quick. What I'm thinking is there wasn't enough resistance on the plunger to push on the spring in the switch, the spring is pretty heavy. Now with the master bolted in and hooked up that might be the ticket.

Mine was fixed like MJ-90. My pics aren't working from photobucket or I would post them. Extending the frame under the spring hanger is a fantastic idea, I didn't do that. But it can be done, I did mine with a rented 110v flux core welder and some plate I had lying around. The rest went to SVE Performance in New Haven CT. But, my spring hangers weren't completely off the frame.... If you measure it good, maybe even tack weld some braces in place while you cut away the rust. I say good on ya for restoring the frame. Comanches are modern classics.

Doing the lines from the WJ master to the MJ prop is a head scratcher for me. I think I may just buy the M12 and the M10 lines bubble flared for the master side and then cut the other end, double flare them, and reuse the old MJ fittings on the prop side. I can't find the right size fittings on their own. The MJ prop uses like a 1/4in and a 7/16?

I'm in the middle of this swap right now. Under the dash the automatic transmission linkage is blatantly blocking the lower left stud of the brake booster. Have no idea how to get it off. Update: I ended up disconnecting the fuse box. There's two gold phillips screws under the dash and a little 7mm bolt on the firewall side. All three have to be unfastened and the the box has to be yanked apart because it's full of that tar stuff that's also in the c101 connector. With the fuse box out, I was able to get a box end wrench around the nut. Taking out the washer bottle and the air box gives some more room to work.

I see dakota tanks and pumps work for comanches. And we all know the original sending units are disappearing, mine is right before my eyes. Is the dakota setup compatible with the comanche wiring or is there rewire involved? How about putting any tank, preferably a square box, even a boat tank, right in the bed and run an aftermarket fuel pump or whatever the new tank comes with so long as the pressure is right.

Gave up for a few days and then went back in and found the damn notch on the crank wheel. Was pretty hard to spot. Once I found it I was able to set the timing right. Runs good enough now, just a weird idle that it's always had. 9 times out of 10 its the simpilest thing that gets me.

Reset the timing a few times now, advanced and retarded it multiple times with plenty of back firing. It seems to like the rotor well in front of the #1 terminal in which case it revs and idles pretty good. But, once on the road past 2500 rpms it still sputters and hesitates. The thing, there is no notch on the crank wheel. All I have are two 1/2 inch holes; its guess work to find true 0. Is it really that sensitive to where a single degree can mean a big difference?

I replaced the CPS with a Standard Products CPS, same problem. Going to try the distributor indexing. TPS is now at a genuine .84.

Tested TPS again, fully open it should read little less than 4.8 and I get 4.3 and then closed it should be above 200 milivolts, I have 800. That's according to my book. Then I remember reading somewhere closed it should be 8.4, mine was set to 8.6, i think I played around to see what idled better and 8.6 was better, so not quite to spec but the TPS is within in working range. The CPS, checked the resistance and it was giving me numbers all across the meter options, the book said it should read nothing at all or just a 1 indicating its fully open, yes?

I did adjust the TPS to spec. I'll check vacuums again and the CPS, that's about the only think I haven't looked at.

88 4.0 auto. Recently did a lot of cleaning like the TPS, IAC, tightened manifold, and new grounds. Now it won't accelerate smoothly almost like the ignition is missing or there's a cylinder missing. It idles fine, it just wavers a bit, and it will rev up when stationary. Once in drive it will accelerate fine to about 2000 rpm and then starts to miss. It accelerates eventually but it doesn't rev like it should. I played around with the distributor, got a little better but did not solve anything. Mash the gas pedal and it will lul and then surge and miss. Plugs, wires, cap, rotor are relatively new. Fuel seems to work just fine, I can even smell a little too much fuel at the exhaust.

I tried to adjust it a long time ago but never got the right readings. I just did it again this morning and I figured it out. Had a 4.88 reference and a .88 output so I adjusted it to .82. Still have a wavering idle cold but once it warmed up fully it leveled off. Next up is the throttle hesitation (it also bogs when trying to accelerate at speed and then surges) and if I blip the throttle quick it can stall and cut out. EGR? That and a battery because this one only works sometimes. Unless I messed up a ground wire but I did the cruiser tips for the dipstick and the firewall/rear head ground refresh.

I wish I did. There is one junkyard within reasonable distance but it is not a u-pull and sometimes they can charge more than for something brand new. It comes in handy occasionally but can be pricey.