CaptainPatchy

I suppose that's possible, I think this is the larger (cherokee?) input shaft diameter isn't it? One more thing I notice is the shaft seems to have some play in it vertically, but spins freely with no shifter.

I went ahead and updated my Build thread here : https://comancheclub.com/topic/62211-91-eliminator-daily-build/page/2/?tab=comments#comment-708338 Posted up some info on the transmission specifically

I've been gathering parts for a AX15 manual swap, and have been researching and looking into everything that goes into that. I was able to get out to the shed today and grab the serial # off the trans. I found an old thread that said #52108048AB should be a 94-96 model, but then when I search for that specific number, I come up with links to a 97 cherokee tranny so I'm not sure what's going on. It's an internal slave model so that's another confusing point, as I've read that they should have all been external slave by then. I need to see if there's some way to bench test and make sure it's shifting nice before I swap it, or just open it up and see what the inside looks like.

If I had the room to strip a vehicle I would, but I'm unfortunately not in that position right now

I don't believe so. I need to get the model # and find out where it came from to begin with. It's an internal slave model I was going to convert edit: I put out some feelers to see if anyone has one available for sale. I checked ebay and whatnot, and you're right they seem very scarce. If I can't find anything I suppose I'll have to fabricate something myself but idk.

The p.o. had the transmission by itself and included that and a pedal set in the sale when I bought the truck. So I'm unfortunately trying to piece it all together without the benefit of a donor rig to pull from. Thank you for answering, that sounds pretty close to what I had been planning

That would be great, does AC/cruise matter to the computer?

I had planned on getting a manual computer, I think any from a manual xj/mj will work through 95 or 96? So I need to have: Manual computer Ax15 w/external bellhousing Possibly manual crossmember Mount for trans Verify pilot bearing size Clutch for my year(?) Flywheel for my 91 Master/Slave setup Pedal setup Jump NSS Wire in reverse switch I think that's everything right? Edited for clarity

that's good to hear, what did you do about the computer in your swap?

Alright, so at least I know it can be done. Did either of you do anything with the steering wheel lock mechanism? I read one guy's account where it locked up on him leaving his driveway right after his manual swap (thankfully not on the road 5mins later!) and that made me nervous

It's gonna take me some time to get all the parts rounded up anyways, but I'd really appreciate that when you get a chance!

Do you happen to have a link to a how-to for removing the interlock? That sounds like exactly like what I'd like to do

I'm in the process of accumulating parts for my manual swap in the 91' around towner truck, and I've come upon a few questions I can't seem to answer reading the guides. Thanks in advance 1. (column differences) I know the auto and manual columns are different regarding the key release with the auto lockout cable and manual without, but are they interchangeable? Is it possible to convert an auto console shift column for use with a manual console shift truck? I've found some info saying you can tie the lockout bar up and remove the cable entirely, does anyone have more info on that? Same goes with altering or removing the steering wheel lock, I'd rather it not try to lock up on me while driving because I missed something. This is a casual weekends vehicle and I really don't need to have a wheel lock for any reason. 2. (computer and NSS) I'm searching for a 91 or 92 manual 4.0 computer, but once that's swapped in, do you still need to jump the NSS pins? How did the factory bypass this originally? Is there a jumper harness on factory manual MJ's that I could get my hands on? Or does having the manual computer stop it from even looking for a NSS signal? I'd like to keep my column if at all possible as it's got tilt and cruise and has already had the wobbly bolts issue fixed, but I'd just like some more info.

I'll make a point to stop by somewhere, thanks for your help to the both of you

It looks like a P.O. might have tried to rattle can black a few places and overall it just looks like it spent a long 30 years in the Texas sun haha. Might be some damage on the tailgate but mostly just very faded. It's through to primer in a number of places.

So thats just a factory black correct? I've toyed with the idea of repainting it just to restore the finish since it's got a lot of sun fade

What line denotes the factory paint code?

After a long and ridiculously(!) cold winter, I finally pulled it off the tender and got it outside for the first drive of the year. Checked all the fluids, let it warm up and the idle smooth out after the long sleep and took it to get a full tank of premium! After a long weekend cleaning up around the house, getting to drive the truck again was just the relief I needed! Need to get supplies for an oil change, and get back to the "to-do" list but overall, still immensely pleased with ownership of this truck.

Mine does the something similar unless it's ALL the way open. I looked into it and was told the factory 1/8 felt around the rear sliding window wears out and replacing it will shut the squeaks up. Took it to a window place near my work, and was told they couldn't get the felt anymore! For now I just folded some tiny slips of paper and wedged them in between the panes to make it quiet, but in the future I'd like to get it fixed proper.

Took the Comanche to a local all-jeep show. The shop that puts it on is known more for lift kits and offroad vehicles, but I figured I'd see what other Jeep fanatics thought of the truck! Well, they must have liked it because I won an award!

Okay, so yesterday when I was moving things over to our new home I noticed a very strong gas smell in the new garage after I backed in. I chalked it up to maybe a bad cat, or just being a very hot day and didn't think anything of it. Noticed the same thing this morning after the first load, and when I was looking around, I saw a small puddle under the airbox area of the truck, popped the hood and saw this: Didn't think it was too bad, but suspected maybe something wrong with the connector so I relieved the rail pressure and pulled them both off to inspect. Looked fine so I reconnected them, and went to prime the pump. That's when I saw this: Okay, so that's not a bad O-ring, but a needle hole in the actual hose. What do I do to replace or repair this? I looked online and can't find replacement hoses in stock anywhere, even dealer-resellers. Is there an option to just bypass the quick connects altogether so I could run rubber fuel line from an auto parts store?

Most big box stores will have that backstrapping in a roll in the plumbing section. Usually called something like "hanger strapping" or similar.

I believe he gave 24K for it, gotta pay to play I guess. He's worked his whole life, I figure he earned it lol

My father just recently bought himself one of these, I believe an 06' Rubicon. We're right in the heart of the rust belt as well, but he said he wasn't going to deal with that again, so after his retirement he started searching for a clean one. Ended up getting one from Ca, a 60k one owner with a few small modifications and ZERO rust anywhere. He flew out to visit his buddy, and drove it back to Ne, said it did fine but needed geared as the p.o. put 35's on it and the auto trans wasn't happy. He's had it regeared since along with smaller tires, and we took it down to our local-ish orv park recently.

I fell down this rabbit hole earlier today, haven't heard about boostwerks either but his work looks familiar. Did he used to be on Jeepforum way back when? I think I remember him from sometime a while back looking for info on my XJ. Guess I'm gonna have to do a bunch more research!