Dickinson County Comanche

Below 20psi at 2000-2200 rpm. I usually like about 10 psi for every 1,000 rpm. It will sometimes drop completely to 0 at idle. Rpm seems to have no effect on oil pressure, except when cold.

I think it’s a Fram filter, and 10w30 oil, which is what the Haynes manual called for.

Hello all, when I got my Comanche back on the road back in march and put ~20 miles on it before putting new oil in it. After that change, the oil pressure drops to less than 20 when warm. It has very little response to throttle and it makes a ticking (most likely valve/lifter) it has 60psi upon cold start and doesn’t tick when cold. Engine only has 126K on it. It doesn’t smoke and doesn’t have any other noises except for maybe one small exhaust leak and a EGR quack. I do not have a mechanical gauge to test actual oil pressure, and I can drop the oil pan if need be on a lift. in the video, most of the noise is from the countershaft bearing in the BA10/5. I’m eventually going to put an AX-15 in, I just haven’t got there yet, and thus, the noise persists. IMG_3079.MOV

Unfortunately, you just missed the ones for sale on Rockauto, they had both a tank and a full sending unit for sale. I would check eBay, the company I was was going to buy one out of had a messup and wouldn’t have them in until early June, so right about now. I believe they were under “Radsusa” “rads” being short for radiators. Hope this helps

Hi all, I just got my Rockauto order in with a new vacuum harness, and I got it all replaced. Now my low idle issue is fixed-ish. It’ll still idle low, but it won’t stumble and die. I noticed that my EGR solenoid was disconnected at the bottom, And when I plugged it in it ran like a top, only problem is it backfires, but only when warm, it doesn’t when cold. The EGR also makes a quack noise as well. I’m glad it’s running better now, but I don’t want to blow a huge hole in my muffler/cat, and also it’s a bit annoying. thanks in advance.

Ok. I shall do that in the morning and report back if it improves anything. Also, I love your suits, but it must be a pain getting a 65 extra fat, and a 12 dwarf.

I cleaned the ICV, to no avail, and the ICV is indeed working, as it would “idle” at ~2000rpm when unplugged.

So I recently get my Comanche back on the road after 18 years (yay!) but, I’m having a reoccurring issue. If I cold start it, it will rev up to about 2k then drop to about 500ish, then it will stumble and jump to 750 where it will idle consistently. If you rev it up past 2500ish, when it drop back down, it will stumble then die. I’m not sure what would be causing this, as it runs great at higher rpm, and had plenty of power. I do, however, think it’s running rich, because it smells a tiny bit. things I’ve done so far: new fuel tank new fuel pump/sender new fuel filter removed the thermostat (old one corroded closed) new air filter. refreshed the main grounds on the block. it has plenty of pressure to the rail, and I’ve put about 50-ish miles on with no avail. I’ve also ran sea-foam through it, which helped a tiny bit. I’ve already ordered new injectors, and will be installing them. I might also check the TPS, but I think it’s fine. any help is appreciated.

Does the A/C work? The compressor might be worn internally and clacking a tiny bit. other than that, I’d maybe look at valves, it might be a low-tone lifter tick, but it’s not a rod knock, it’s not consistent enough to be one, at least in my opinion. that being said, it might be a bearing in the trans. I might have a bad countershaft bearing, and it makes a clunking nose when idling, with gets worse with rpm, similar sounding to that, just louder.

I bought this one from Rockauto. So I guess if anybody needs a HO sender, you should look there. I guess I’ll see about reversing the posts on the gauge. I don’t want to have to re-pull the pump. So I might just have to live with it being backwards.

Ok, so my fuel gauge is running in reverse, this is due to me having a 91-92 sender on an 89, this being said, I’m wondering if I can’t just cut and splice the wires in reverse, would that fix it? I’ve seen people change them on the sender itself, and on the gauge but I wasn’t so sure that wouldn’t work also. Thanks.

Frame seems good, bed is ok. Rockers have a hole in them, but you could probably get a good set of red flares that you’re looking for.

Nope, has some on the floorboards, and the top is starting to rust where it was patched. It’s mostly on the passenger side, not this side so much.

1990 Jeep Comanche Eliminator 4.0, AX-15, NP 231?, D30,D44? 8/89 North Central Kansas Hopefully can pull parts off of it, but owner wants mint-condition money for it. But for now, it just sits. No real out-of-the-ordinary features for a eliminator, fog lights, bucket seats, floor shift manual in a console, but it does have A/C and a sliding rear window, although it was rolled over and had a new top put on it, so that might not be standard. Colorado red I believe. 4x4. Union road junkyard (not the real name, but I want to keep the owners name private)

1989 Jeep Comanche RENIX 4.0, AX-15 transmission, 231 transfer case, Dana 30 front axle, Dana 35 rear axle, 3.07:1 gear ratios. January of 1989 North Central Kansas Daily Driver/Project Skid plates, special military order dark maroon exterior, dark Corinthian interior, bench seat, floor shift 5-speed, no cruise, no A/C, no tilt wheel. Logan Diekmann