Awinski

personally the shop i work at has had a lot of issues with those electronic distributors, the hei imo is the way to go. i need to go back and read this whole thread, id love to do some sort of small block swap in mine. great job so far very informative

Not really sure what you're asking Anyways here's some more pics from last night, gonna pick up some light 2x2 1/8" wall tubing to build some supports tomorrow morning, other than that it's pretty much ready to drive after some paint.

I'll try to get some actual pics of everything tonight when I weld it the rest of the way together but here she is. Sitting at full bump. Man this manual rack is a breeze to steer

So close to getting the comanche bolted together and accidentally grabbed a left hand threaded nut from ace this morning. Ugh. Steering is tacked on. Gonna weld that up then go get some nuts.

So tonight after getting back from the avengers movie I started the final weld up, I've been working in the comanche here and there during the week. made some steering extensions out of some grade 8 nuts and bolts and tigged then up during lunch break. Decided to weld my upper arm mount brace to the frame in before(under) the shock tower to give about 3/8-1/2" more uptravel at the wheel (3/16 more shock travel). Other than that it's all just simply gluing everything together at this point. Still havent really decided how I'm going to brace this thing, I have a few ideas. At this point I'd love to just be able to drive it again come Monday.

Got the drive side pretty much ready for final welding and gussets. Now onto the passenger side.

understandable, if not super important I'm sure soon enough there will be people chiming in as for myself, i have a bit different build as most know but i'm using 4" travel qua1 single adjustable coilovers, i have a dealer account through work so it was under 400 shipped to my door with springs) until i can afford some nice fox's down the road (i've always loved fox and thats what i have on all 4 corners of my jk) i have 180lb springs for them so once everything is installed ill be able to calculate front corner weight on my 2wd 2.5

if you want to know spring rates simply find the part numbers painted on the springs. that should give you rate and length. then you can do some math (the equation is all over the internet) for your larger spring and finding corner weights will be super easy.

Teaser. Hoping to get a solid day in the garage tomorrow

Should be able to handle way better in the future with links all around. A flap disk is great for removing metal. But they'll gum up with anything else. I understand the desire to just get it done and drive it though

no pics, sorry. but i got the lower arm stuff welded up on the driver side, and got the bracket made for the driver upper. and the fun part, got to order coil overs today. hoping to have this thing on it's own weight this weekend, hoping. for now i'm just trying to plan accordingly so i can get as much done saturday and sunday as possible. may or may not be driving 3 hours to pick up a topper as well, only because i like the look and I'm young and dumb.

jeep is coming out awesome! glad you decided to 4 link it, it's not that bad when you are done with it plus itll drive like butter with the right setup. planning on doing coil overs too or are you gonna do a coil and shock setup? side note, from someone who fabs for a living if you want to remove the factory paint faster than a wire wheel and not remove material like a flap disk a "stripper disk" like benchmark works wonders. don't hit a corner with them, instead of kicking like a wire wheel theyll just wear down super fast. but they do leave nice clean metal which is nice. just incase you were getting tired of wire wheels but they do last a darn long time. your friend is a great welder as well on that front long arm setup.

You could always ifs the front. Shouldn't look much different till someone got under it. Then you'd have plenty of room

absolutely love this build, funny i've been to all breeds many times as Gap is my hometown and sadly i don't know if i've seen this thing before. maybe this year ill make it up with my manche! i wish i had seen this build before i even started mine, you gave me some ideas haha, love the wheels btw. as for the attachment quality I'm not certain

Standard mustang 2 manual rack, itll mount somewhere on the front of the crossmember. The steering arms are bolt on so.k could technically move them wherever I want to. There are, anything attached to a manual trans. Diesel most likely won't happen

Alright well, got a lot done today, not nearly as much as I wanted to but some solid progress. Finished the crossmember, measured about 50 times, trimmed cross member, tacked cross member to the frame. Lower pivot point located at 8" off the ground and 30" a part. Made some adjustable upper mounts and got the passenger side tacked to the frame. I'll be building some bracing for this. uppers at about 19.25 front and 19 rear and about 36" a part horizontally. just a little bit of anti dive and gained caster in compression with the angled upper, but I can change and adjust at any point in the future. Not pictured: Mocked up shock towers; ill be using the trusty and cheap Ford f series ones you can get off ebay for about 40 bucks. Measured for coil overs, fought with bolts, several curse words shouted, few victory brews drank. Hopefully the driver side goes a bit easier. Now that I know where everything needs to go, but that also means I'll want ti match the passenger side exactly.

Haha thanks pete. Just figured that section was for builds. Whatever works for the readers! Tonight I made some progress on the cross member and taking off the track bar support that's plug welded in. Cross member is 3/16 wall 2x4, this is what the lower a arm mounts will go off of. As for numbers, I'll post once everything falls in place for my final numbers but the planned isnt anything extraordinary. Just some easy geometry for a slightly track performable dd. And the bracket I cut off, took about an hour start to finish with a 5/16 bit and some cold chisels. Wanted to do this as I didnt want to weld to it and weld to the frame on the other side making load transfers uneven and having to shorten the cross member on one side etc. Plus considering it was just spot welded in and I wasnt going to try to clean out the cracks for a proper weld, I just decided to remove it. Tomorrow I'll try to get as much as I can done as Sunday I'll be traveling to my mothers for Easter.

Plan is to build a set eventually as everything designed is made for a larger wheel opening than I'd like

Thanks man! Interesting is a good term haha Haha I doubt it. If i felt like back halving it i could easily get the rear 3-4" lower

Grill isnt staying, have a fancy 21 slot waiting in Maryland for me

Reserved for future TOC

As for the front suspension, I picked up a set of mustang 2 spindles and fancy rotors /brakes from johnny law motors relatively inexpensive. Also got upper and lower control arms. I was planning to build my own arms, but they were so cheap that even if I have to modify them it made it worth the while. Plan is to match the mustang irs rear at 65.5" wms. I'll be building my own mounts to the stock frame and everything so geometry will be all up to me. Other than that I need to pick up some steel this week, and get my jk running again after the fuel cell swap so I have more space in the garage.

So to start I picked up a super cheap mj after moving to north carolina, just needed a truck for picking up stone, wood, tools and such for around the house. Being a jeeper I couldn't keep the thing stock for long. The original plan was to make it a mini dually but after irs swapping a 60s c10 at the shop i worked at I decided to do my research. The plan after this was to be a somewhat lowered (not slammed) independent suspension comanche on about a 27-29" tire. Started with a 2016 mustang irs. This is an 8.8 with an lsd from the factory and 3.31 gears. Pretty solid with less than 20k miles and 700 bucks shipped to my door. After mounting the irs where I liked it I couldn't use my stock 15s for mock up as the brakes are too big. Found a local set of cobra wheels, and eventually wrapped then with some 29" toyo proxes. don't worry, I got bushings for the shock mounts since that photo was taken