500 MJ

That only happens when I fall asleep at the wheel :thumbsup:

Sure the VW gets better mileage and could probably beat the MJ off the line, but will the VW get you places the MJ can? My goal is to someday ride mine all the way up to Alaska with a Canoe strapped on the top and 2 weeks worth of camping gear in the bed... just give it time.

I'm actually quite surpirsed, the 3.55 ratio handles them just fine. At times it is hard to get up to 70 mph but the way I drive I hardly go that fast anyway. The nice thing is, and beleive me I noticed it, is that when you go down into a valley those suckers are spinning around so fast it takes alot to slow them down. They actually have a noticable amount of momentum that helps you back up the hill on the other side. More Wheeling Pics! Poser Shot Near the Tip of Michigan's Keweenaw Peninsula Snow Wheeling at Night! [/img]

10's with about 3.5 BS, they still rub the flares at full crank. I'll take care of that with the long-arm mod next summer.

So with the new tires I just bought came the need to lift things a few more inches...Now my best guess for lift is that I have about a 5" lift in it, I threw in an AAL and some hommade spacers in the front... Before the Lift: After Lift: I drove the truck 420 miles to college yesterday and we made it just fine. The tires have a nice whine to them and almost put me to sleep a few times. Speedo isnt off too much either, just at higher speeds. I DID trim behind the fender flares for obvious reasons. The lower parts of the flares arent really secured too well so they can move out of the way when I am at full crank. Next to come will be a hommade longarm kit this summer. I'll keep you all posted.

its sure worth it. Ill check it tonight

Yep, First off, no parts store in town had a master cylinder in stock so I threw that notion out the window cause I was going to try to put that in tonight and see if it was the problem. I am heading home tomarrow no matter what... So I drove out to the tranny shop and congratulated them on how they will have a nice looking MJ sitting in their lot for a week. A mechanic and I took it out for a spin and he was even puzzled on what the problem was. When we first got in it everything was fine, but like it has been doing after about 5 mins of driving things started to act up again. He mentioned to me that he did not think the problem was the hydraulics because the pedal felt the same with or without the acting up of the screeching scratching noise from the bellhousing... So I told him that I put the new clutch in last summer and he brightened my day when he spoke of how it may be warrantied... Still the labor of replacing the clutch will run me $300 flat rate. I'll make sure and tell you what the problem was in fact once they get it all taken care of. He is very certain it is in the clutch and that it could be a spring on the disk that broke... It just makes me mad that I don't have the tools to fix it at college, otherwise I would be ripping into it tonight here in the garage... Rolling Eyes Oh Btw Pete, the truck was a manual when I got it. I used the same lines that were in it so unless they fell out of position (which I didnt check), they should be all tucked away nice...

On related note... should I buy the master cylinder kit or the whole new unit?

Yah, from looking at things on the outside, I can't see any leaks at all. I still have a good level in the master cylinder too and I bled the system last night and go no air. What I am going to try is to replace the master cylinder. My guess is that since it is a heat related problem, the seals warm up in the master cyl and are shot so I lose my pressure and then don't disengage the clutch... it is worth a shot considering that all the parts I have in for the clutch were BRAND NEW only 5000 miles ago. Only thing I didnt replace was the pilot bushing, it felt tight and I greased that up good before everything went back in.

Yah, IDK, I'm just going to take it to a tranny shop and pay through the butt to get it taken care of. I don't have the tools up here to drop the tranny and I don't want to drive it 400 miles to get home like this. All the stuff I have is all Jeep and I don't know why I am having these problems. I didnt put in a different engine like you did... I havent had any problems with the clutch slipping and I still don't. It just won't disengage.

No air in the lines at all. They shot me in the face in fact :mad: So now what? Is the slave weak, is the pressure plate shot? IDK. When the truck is cold it seems better and once it warms up is when the clutch won't disengage completely... thoughts? Everything except the pilot bushing was replaced this summer with NEW parts, not reconditioned ones, NEW ones from carquest that have less than 5000 miles on them. It can't be the pilot bushing can it, that shouldnt keep things from disengaging?

If you take the old rings in to carquest, they can match them up and it will only run you $1.37... ;) There is one bolt that holds that filter adapter on. Usually the orings are TOASTED...

Guess what, tag my name to this post as well. My clutch is not diengaging at all though. It does at some points and drives like it did a week ago and at other times I have to shut it off to come to a stop. It has gotten noticably worse over the last few days. I'm going to try to bleed it tonight and see if thats where my problem lies. Wish me luck...

Well, I'm getting them. I've got the bug enough now that if I need to trim the fenders to fit them, I will. I'll look at lifting it higher with my AAL and some spacers up front first. This may cost me some money to make them work, but isnt that why we do what we do? Just Empty Every Pocket ;)

So I guess that this is where having a Wrangler is nice because of the lack of having to trim... :chillin: Just how much trimming will be needed in your opinions? Will this cause me to lose my MJ fender flares? Also, I am running a 27 spline 8.25 and the D30 with smaller shafts as well. I DO NOT rat on it when I am wheeling. Should I be concerned about the 33's. How about the 3.55 ratio?

Yah, I took the lower leaf off of those packs from Rusty's. It sat way too high for the 31's then. It looked odd. So I took the bottom leaf out and it leveled things out. Hense the pic on FB stating the 4.5"#. Front coils are 3.5" though. These rims are 10's, 3 5/8" B.S.? IDK if thats good or bad...?

BTW, I already have the AAL for the rear packs...Problems on that end are solved... 8)

I do agree with you that you can't expect them not to rub. I do still rub with my 31" tires now when I'm really flexing. Thing is though that I was able to put these 31" on when I had the truck sitting on no lift at all. Granted I was just wheeling it around the drive when I did it... I am wondering if anyone out there has 33" tires they are running and do most of their driving on the road and if they are having troubles with them or not... These are what I am looking at picking up. The rims alone sell for $114 each new. Tires have 95% left on them. 33x12.5R15 Rims are 10" Eagle Alloy Series 187. Good deal or not? 4 Tires/Rims/Center Caps for $590? Image Not Found

With 3.5" of lift?

Lol, glad to see you got some business there Pete. :razz: Just watch it, I guess there is alot of snow up that way. Talked to my parents just tonight in Reed City and they said it was coming down

J/Y's love to get rid of seats. There isnt much steel in them and for them, the steel is where the money is...

Plus, you don't have to do any cleaning to get the rig clean again, just let it melt off. BUT, with snow comes ROAD SALT :headpop: :mad:

Any more work done on your MJ lately? ;)

With XJ/MJ, everything from the doors forward is the same... including the bumper brackets. Thing is though that they arent worth your time or money if you plan on getting towed by them. Just some weak steel that hold the bumper on, can't be used for anything more...

Monster...