AMC-MJ

:dunno: I don't know about that :dunno: . . . the Mack is a 2 stick trans, the Stude got hit by a drunk driver while it was parked so it's in need of some repair. . . I collector tagged them so i can only haul 500lb's . . . unless the plate is blocked by the trailer ;) i risk i'd rather i took myself . . . Mike

I couldn't agree more, if i was going to do a swap i'd go for an AMC V-8 myself ideally the 290 4bbl 225hp n 300tq that's more then plenty of power for me . . . The 6 just ain't worth it, they have blow by issues they fill the air filters with engine oil, just a nasty mess i fell is not worth the work. But i'm not interested in an engine swap or i would have simply asked. Mike

These are the type's of truck's I'm use to driving, the little MJ is tiny . . . Mike

Those prices sound high for used axles. I've bought Dana 44s out of XJs for $75 each at a u-pull-it, and they typically go for $200 to $250 at a yard that pulls 'em for you. Can you actually regear an axle for $200, or is that the cost of the parts only? Unless you have the tools and the experience to set up new gears yourself, trying to save a few $$$ by not having it done professionally can be a very expensive mistake. Have you done it? Do you have the tools? Yes sir $200 is the parts shipped to my door and then installed ! that's the complete cost tax title tag's out the door said n done driving down the road cost. But i as i said i'm no longer interested, it is what it is, I'm just going to use it as a beater and drive it till something expensive break's n recycle it . . . Mike

Thank's but i have lost interest, i'm just going to drive it till something expensive break's and recycle it. Mike

I'm going to have to decline, my truck is far to old beat up with way to many miles for such a trip . . . Mike

1. if i was interested in or if i wanted and engine swap i'd simply ask about one ! 2. the 4.0L I-6 is an oil guzzler air filter soaking pile of junk, I personally would NEVER EVER waste my time on such a swap. 3. it's a 1988 so a 22 year old cheaply made mass produced Economy truck any engine swap isn't cost effective, you got a 2.5 and want a 4.0 simply crush the 2.5 and buy a 4.0 . . . there cheap ! crush'em and replace'em highly recyclable. . . I can't say it any simpler, if your still lost have some body explain it to you . . . Mike

Its a 1988 Econ truck that rolled off a line and out of a plant that no longer exists. I priced out axles for a 4WD conversion the 2 yards around here wanted $500 an axle and $750 for the T-Case, i can ReGear the axle i got for $200 sound's by far cheaper then an axle swap ! to me. . . i'll just take it an exhaust shop and see what they can toss on the heap . . . :waving: Mike :waving:

4.0 :rotfl2: :rotf: Junk ! :rotfl2: :rotf: every 4.0 i have seen pukes more oil into the airfilters the it circulate threw the engine :rotfl2: :rotf: :yes: they got more exhaust pouring out the oil fill cap's then they do the tail pipe :yes: :rotf: :rotfl2: as where my 2.5 don't have any blow by and its got 189K miles the above mentioned 4.0's only had 120-160K miles on them :waving: Now an AMC V-8 Performance engine they used in AMX's & Javelins, Now that i would do an I-6 never touch'em. . . 290 2bbl was rated at 200 hp and 260 ftlb. 290 4bbl was rated at 225 hp and 300 ftlb. 304 2bbl was rated at 210 hp and 305 ftlb. 360 2bbl was rated at 245 hp and 365 ftlb. 360 4bbl was rated at 290 hp and 395 ftlb. 390 4bbl was rated at 325 hp and 420 ftlb. 390 4bbl was rated at 340 hp and 430 ftlb. 390 8bbl was rated at 435 hp and 450 ftlb. 401 4bbl was rated at 330 hp and 430 ftlb. Now wheres the I-6 fit in power wise ? I bet it ain't even worth the oil it puke's . . . whats the 360 n 401 truck's rating's ? 360 2bbl 175hp n ??? ftlb. 360 4bbl 195hp n ??? ftlb. 401 4bbl 215hp n 320 ftlb. ? I found the 401's number but not the torque on the 360's. . . Mike

Based on your posts and questions so far, it seems that you have been told a lot about XJs and MJs, and most of it is totally untrue. The D35 is not "finicky." Changing the axle lube absolutely won't hurt it, and might help it. It's not a strong axle, but it's plenty strong enough for a stock 2.5L engine in a stock truck. The weakest aspect is the axle tubes, where they go into the center section housing. When run with large tires in extreme off-road situations, the tubes bend. This puts the axle shafts at an angle to the center section, which wears out the carrier bearings. Thank you much for the info this is why i jumped from a general Jeep forum to a Comanche specific forum as all the the info will be on and only relate to the actual truck at hand. I'll be going to an AMSOIL gear lube as that's the product's i use. Mike

I don't know is i buy into the D35 being a bad axle as this D35 has 189,000 miles on it ! Normally a bad diff doesn't go 200K miles with out a any service it don't appear to have had gear lube changed ever in its life. Sound's like i'd be better off tossing a new exhaust on it, mount up a new set of 235 MT's under the rear n driving till it wears out and crush it. $200 set of gear's sure tracking down a whole other axle then regearing sound's like insanity to me . . . EDIT: I'm guessing i should have said "Simple" mod's n upgrades are there any ? I'm talking like easy stuff TBI spacer, cold air intake, exhaust: header ? performance muffler say glass pack ? over sized pipe ? say 2" or 2-1/4" that sort of thing. . . Mike

Dana/AMC 35: 4.11's: http://www.ringpinion.com/ProductDetail ... rodID=4443 4.56: http://www.ringpinion.com/ProductDetail ... rodID=4447 4.88: http://www.ringpinion.com/ProductDetail ... rodID=4449 these are what i found for gearing option's . . . worth while ? Mike

ya, but i also heard the factory AX-5 5spd trans was junk failed a lot ? i don't want to swap in a ticking time bomb ya know ? Mike

Sound's like more then i care to do . . . I'm all about intake's exhaust's Camshaft's high compression pistons n gearing them down if more power is needed . . . I have thought about running 4.56 gears and a T-5 trans behind this I-4 but wasn't sure if that would be to extreme for a daily driver beater truck ? . . . Maybe 4.11's n a T-5 would be more practical ? Mike

1. Now i'm not really in need of more power my truck is plenty peppy. . .But is dose need a new exhaust, The OEM one is rusty and leaking here n there, In most cases the after market or performance exhaust's tend to cost less then replacing the OEM exhaust, the factory had . . . any suggestion's ? thought's ? any body know of any full system kit's ? if it has to be Custom built any suggested sized pipe to move up to or go with ? Its bad from the manifold flange on back. . . 2. Now a friend of mine was snooping around online and he found a "cold air intake" and a "throttle body spacer" has any body tried these ? any thought's comments or suggestions on these ? 3. any other parts one might want to know about ? . . . i'm guessing the 2.5L I-4 is some what limited on after market performance parts ? :dunno: . . :???: . . :dunno: Mike

if ti hang's in there another 5 year's or 5 miles it was all worth it . . . AMC jeep's are no longer being made so we gotta run'em all till there beyond dead then scavenge whats left of the dead, to give the living n dieing some more life . . . :bowdown: Mike

Sweet baby Jesus on a Friday..... I got a house that needs moved, could I borrow? :D :bowdown: Jeff you like that ? . . . they only rated it with a 14,000LB GVWR ! yet it'll tow 22,000lb's in payload perfectly. The 77' Ford F-350 has the 351M V-8, 235hp@3,750rpm n 415tq@2200rpm, granny 4spd, 4.56 gear's 245/70R19.5G tires. . . 12.5K-lb GVWR tow's 18K-lb's payload routinely . . . The 53' Studebaker M275 has a 331CID I-6 Gasser turning 127hp@3400rpm n 320tq@1,600rpm 5spd manual NO over drive and has 6.72 gears 11.00R20H tires . . . 36K-lb GVWR yet pulls 45K-lb's payload flawlessly . . . The 59' Mack B61T has a 711 I-6 turbo charged non turbo diesel :yes: , 315hp@2250 n 1475tq@1250rpm 15SPD-OD, and 6.38 gears 12.00R24J tires . . . 120K-lb GVWR yet pulls 175K-lb's perfectly . . . It's a toss up between the 77' Ford n the 62' GMC as to which is stronger from my experience they seem to be dead even, but if i had to guess it would be the GMC a the stronger one by the math. Math: 62' GMC 388tq x 5.13 gears = 1990.44lb's. 77' Ford 415tq x 4.56 gears = 1892.40lb's. I was told taking the peak torque times the gear ratio give you the torque multiplication factor, So there for the 62 GMC is applying about 100lb's more of forward force then the 77 Ford . . . Mike

:cheers: Now that sounds way better then pulling the old rusty crumbly D35 apart, It don't as tho the fluid has ever been changed. As much as i would love to open it up drain it out and filler up with some nice severe service AMSOIL, i'm almost wondering if i should just ignore it as it has been for 189K miles ? . . . I'm told the D35 is Finicky and it's easily pissed off . . . Mike

When i change out the gear oil, i'll them a count down. . . Mike

I just like to know what i got. . . If you can FIND a tag any place on this truck that is filled in be my guest. . .The door jamb tag isn't even filled in it's all blank no GVWR no Tire size ECT . . . Mike

1. you contradicted your self by saying only the 225/75's came on the 4.0L I-6, and using the 225/75 v.s 225/70 comparison. I didn't contradict myself at all. First, I didn't say that only the 225/75s came with the 4.0L. I said that was the LARGEST size the factory used. Second, I used the sizing comparison of the 225/75-15 versus the 225/70-16 to show the difference going from a 75 series to a 70 series makes. I chose that example because both were offered by Jeep on the 2000 Cherokee, and I have one of each parked in my garage right now. The point was that you have a truck that came from the factory with 75-series tires on it, and you are now running 70-series tires on it. Ergo ==> your tires are smaller than stock, which equates to the same thing as having more gear. If you want to make your comparison valid, compare the same nominal size between a 70-series and a 75-series. Take either a 205/70-15 vs. a 205/75-15, or a 225/70-15 vs. a 225/75-15. well in that respect yes it would exactly %5 shorter ! :thumbsup: good thinking . . . but if the factory sized tires are "205/75R15" and i now have "225/70R15" the new tire is taller by .8" :thumbsup: . . . as already stated, i could also go to a 225/75R16 an be about the same as a 235/75R15 for over all diameter and those are both 75's . . . well anyhow we seem to not agree on this so lets just agree we disagree n move right on along. . . Mike

Pull up your carpet and check for rust before it's too late!! <- already done n repaired ! never spend money on a Dana 35 or a BA-10/5 <- umm . . . i forgot ! Rocker guards are your friends, 3.07 gears are not. <- 3.07's :rotfl2: :rotf: its a truck get some 3.73's 3.91's 4.10's 4.33's 4.56's 4.88's 5.13's 6.38's 6.44's 6.72's 10.11's . . . 12.55's those are truck gears "Just because it's a good deal, doesn't mean it's a good idea." :fool: <- that is what i said about the MJ ! Ya, bigger tires do well. I'm still getting used to little truck's they don't normally last me . . . But Mudder's always look Cool :D Mike

I must no longer be important :dunno: :rotf: :rotfl2: Mike

that is cool them 292's are brutes ! Mike

umm ya see i forgot my wallet . . . :rotfl2: :rotf: :fs1: must be nice to have an inside place to park it :bowdown: Mike