RLCollins

how do properly troubleshoot the booster, in a power brake system?. :headpop:

Pete - how do you center the proportioning valve so the light on the dash will go out, after bleeding the brakes for the second time around? - meaning with the front bleeder open so the shuttle the valve will travel to one side, while rebleeding the rears. :help:

Your right Oizarod115. What I met by one fuel line, is there is one up front instead of two, and there is one is the back. :chillin:

how do you troubleshoot that vacuum football behind the right front bumper? :dunno:

I agree with you Eagle. I am from the old school, before the invention of the proportioning valve. So I expect the rear brakes to lock-up. That's why this height proportioning valve is confusing to bleed. :nuts: Thanks for the correct proceedure in bleeding a system with a height sensing proportioning valve. Well; I going to properly bleed my entire brake system now, thanks to you :D

Thanks comanche kid45 for the information it is helpful Sorry Eagle - I don't remember reading the response to the thread Thank you for reminding me, by by cutting and pasting them together. :yes: :doh:

what is a Renix? What is my truck, which is a 1989 MJ longbed 4X4 with a 4.0 MPI I-6. I only have one fuel line going to the fuel rail. What kind of ECU would I have? What is the differene between and MPI, and a TBI? Which one performs better? I always have lots of question Thanks for the help :chillin:

thanks for the info hornbrod But I live in South Florida. You don't buy Aluminum nothing, unless its power coated, or its on a boat. These aluminum radiators would not last in lower La Florida. Our Airconditioner units meaning the condensor will rot and turn to white powder in a short time if they are aluminum. Everything down here is copper, copper rain gudders, copper drip edge for the roof, copper light fixtures if the are on the outside of the building. Anything Aluminum won't last if you are within a mile of the beach. Everything that is aluminum will rot out in half the time as copper. We have salt in our air, and you have it on the streets in the winter. Just look under your truck, you get the picture now. :chillin:

I'am embarassed to say the calipers were the right ones on the second try:oops: The part house had the wrong numbers, so they just eyeballed the calipers on the second try. By my not taking a serious mental note of the assembly, it just looked like the caliper and support bracket did not match. I should have played with it like a puzzle, and I would not have had a problem. So the brakes are on and the job is finished :thumbsup: I bleed them tomorrow :chillin:

Eagle - thanks for straighting out the confusion with the information that defines the direction in which I go. Hornbrod - thanks for your input on the corvette electric fan switches, the numbers crossed over to another number which is no long manufactured. That's what I need in the way of a switch, my parts house has given me some direction at how to locate this switch, so we will see what happens. I will report on the finding, just give me some time. PS just bought a Mopar 1-83501426AC 195 degree thermostat with three gaskets for $10.95. This one has the weep hole. It says its made in AMERICA. Earlier in the day I was at Advanced Auto Parts to purchase brake hose washers, one was missing when I removed the old calipers. While I was at Advanced I asked about the thermostat. The only one that they had with a weep hole cost $15.95 and no gaskets, and it was made in CHINA. I was Glade when I went to Chrysler and supported GOVERNMENT run Motors. At least I keep some of the money at home. I thought that outsourcing our manufacturing was suppose to save us money? :yes: They lied. I agree with hornbrod, I don't want to constantly monitor the temp gauges, so I can manually turn the radiator fan on or off based on Temperture. :brows: I live in South Florida. It's hot down here, you better have at least a two core radiator or better. This is why I needed the on or off switch for the fan, which is controlled by the TEMPERTURE of the coolant. PS When I was at the Chrysler dealership picking up the thermostat, I asked the mechanics that were at the counter picking up parts, If they see much in the way of trouble with these old type closed system. The only response was its nothing but a problem here in South Florida. This is why I went to a open system, I just misted the fact of the bung for the switch to the radiator fan. When I was at the pull yard for other parts I saw a copper two core radiator that looked just about new, and looked a little further to noticed it was a open type system, I reacted, instead of thinking the entire project through. :oops: So thanks for all your input It seems there are many others having the same or similar problems.

OK Eagle I cannot seem to find it Could you please help :oops: I will be completing the brakes today Need to bleed them :dunno:

What lubricant would you recommend to lubricate the hood release cable? How would you flow this lubricant down the entire length of the cable? Before the problem, becomes a problem? :hmm:

I also have had trouble with the CCV line, which is the PVC Valve, it seem to be to small for real breathing. The oil it picks-up clogs the hard plastic pipe tubing. If it becomes totally blocked you end up with what appears to be oil leaks everywhere. along with the air cleaner being filled with oil. Remove this line and try to blow through it. You will probably find its totally blocked, If its as bad a you say that it is. I have been there and done that :chillin:

I use two different books. One is Haynes that is OK on very general questions. I also purchased two service manuals for my year Jeep. One was Engine, Chassis and Body the other is electrical. Bishko Books also offers a parts book. They can be reached at 1-800-544-3312 or E-mail bishobook@aol.com ot their web site http://www.autobooksbishko.com. These books are thick, I paid $115.45 including shipping. It was a good buy. :D

Maybe I need go to Canada for my parts? :dunno: I have read on other threads within this site, that people have had problems here in the States with brake part numbers at NAPA :eek: Hey Red 1989 MJ - How do you like that AX-15 trans?

OK now its my turn. I am having problems obtaining the right rebuilt calipers for the front end. The small local parts supply house sold me DPI 18-4341, 18-4342 They are not the correct ones. :fs1: My 1989 MJ 4X4 has power brakes and NO ABS system, with 11 inch front rotors, and 10 inch rear drums with 1 3/4 shoes. I bought Wagners thermo Quiet pads part number MX 203 AKA MX 7122 and D28-48013 MADE in AMERICA, these seem to be the right pads for the caliper supports which are AMC 105913-01. What part numbers should the calipers be? or how do I obtain the correct ones. The parts house has the wrong part numbers in their book as I have read on these threads. Whats up - is the world that deceptive or CRAZY? :headpop: Even the new rotors seem to be the right ones Ctek 121.63003 (made in CHINA - JUNK). Could one of you guys with some knowledge help my part house sell me the right rebuilt calipers for my truck? :help: Thanks for your help in advance. Maybe I will have my truck on the road by Christmas A praying owner :bowdown:

Thanks Oizarod115 I agree, some of the factory parts are priced out of sight With our everchanging owners of manufactures, you just don't know who makes good parts and who does not. CHINA has destroyed American Quality and pride in their workmanship. I have seen so much change in the quality of parts since the early 1970's to today, that one brand name vender you used to use, which had a well known name for quality, sells out to new owners and then turn what was once excellent produce into junk. Maytag, and kitchenaid are a few examples of what I am talking about. Everyone knows them. Thats why I am asking the question about quality To show my point here is my pilot bearing for my clutch National part number FC66426 $8.49 Motormight part number 14657 $9.49 Dorman Part Number 690-044 $34.09 Dorman Part number 690.050 $25.89 Look at the price differences, they are all the same part I'll bet they were made from the same manufacture, I believe if you look each one of the above parts up through each one of there websites, what I found is Chrysler use all these parts as OEM in their new vechicles. I could not beleive it. Just look at the price difference for the same part. OUCH :brows:

Thanks Mfpdm I will try it first chance I get. :ack:

thanks Knever3 You don't like your cermaics? Robert :chillin:

My head light switch pulls "in" and "out" OK, along with turning on the parking lights, than the head lights, this portion is OK. My problem is with the instrument lights, the only way they come on is by turning the knob clockwise till it stops. When the knob is fully turn clockwise the dome light comes on like it suppose to. Any idea whats wrong? the switch, relay or something else? :help:

Who can tell me anything about brakes parts? like pads, shoes and calipers. I know the title caught your attention, you just wanted to see what this thread was about. I know you have something on your mind to be reading this thread. Your opinion on brakes would a help to everyone on this website. Are their certain manufactures or brand names that work better on JEEPS than others? :USAflag: Which products whould you stay away from? What type of brakes pads/shoes would you install on your JEEP? :popcorn: Why? What about the rebuilt brake calipers, good , bad or ugly? If there is a weak link in an MJ's brake system? what would it be in your opinion? :help: Now I have you thinking, well? :yes:

Sorry Eagle I was not trying to hijack threads, but as I state I was only trying to help the guy, along with solving my own problem. i won't hijack anyont threads Robert AKA MR. Collins this sounds to serious try something else :chillin:

Sorry for causing all this confusion. I will try to keep my threads all together. What year jeep Radiator with an bug on an open system will fit in my 1989 MJ 4.0? So I will know next time? I guess I did not ask enough question before starting the change. I have not had the time to solve this problem yet. But I will. I chasing brake parts now, tying to get my truck back on the road ASAP. Thanks for all your help, this had been a group effort. :bowdown:

Pete made a statement which to me is a excellent question on my problem, with my 1989 MJ long bed 4.0 I-6 4X4. The early thread was "Brake Height sensing Proportioning Valve Problems" His statement "Bleeding that emergency hydraulic line is a real problem." This is a second line AKA return line that goes back to the proportioning valve by the master cyclinder. So how do you properly bleed a system with a height sensing proportioning valve? This all started with my back brakes, After inspecting the rear brake shoes, I found there was little to no wear on them. After changing the wheel cyclinders and shoes, I found through the bleeding process that there were no rear brakes, and NO brake fliud pressure on the rear shoes, even after moving the height sensing proportioning valve arm back and forth. This valve was closed to brake fluid flow. So I tried to find a new one, part 52002369 good luck. Well I did find one through Trademotion.com AKA byerschryslerjeep.com. These guys were good, I could not believe they found the part in Denver, Co. I have it in my hand. since my brake system was not working properly I ordered the proportioning valve by the master cyclinder from them also part 52002497, its on its way to me. Their phone number 1-614-238-1631. I hope that it is alright to talk about good suppliers. Than I looked at the front brakes, the rotors were shot from the truck only having front brakes, since the last owner had the brake job done. After further looking into the brake system the master cyclinder was spongy from day one. So I changed that also. After all these parts being wore out; I came to the conclusion that the remainder of the brake system is also bad. The only part of the system that is worth saving is the metal brake lines, they are not rusted, or leaking brake fluid, so I will keep them. What should I be looking for in the way of other problems with the brakes? What kind of brakes shoes work the best and last the longest on Jeeps? what about rebuilt calipers? Any experience with which manufactures that last the longest? Are there ones I should stay away from? Are the front wheel bearing serviceable? Can I repack them with new bearing grease? or are the sealed? :dunno: PS How do you properly bleed the rear brakes with an height sensing porportioning valve in the line? :dunno:

Thanks for all this information. It will take a bit of time to look through it all. but thanks again.