dante2

That is one thing I forgot, I am missing the front stud on the exhaust manifold. Can I thread a stud in without having to remove the manifold?

I have a rough idle that fluctuates between 450-700 rpm. It idles real low at start up then climbs to about 700 after about 15 seconds then drops again after about 5-10 seconds repeatedly. Drives ok until I have to stop then it almost dies. Things I have done so far: copper plugs, wire set, cleaned IAC and throttle body, replaced most of the vacuum lines, fuel pump (bought it with a bad pump), back of block to firewall ground, and not related changed to open cooling. Any help steering me in the right direction would be very appreciated. I also have some pics of wires that I need to identify. This one is under and to the right of the brake booster. Next one is to the left and even with the booster. Found it melted and laying on the intake. Last one is next to the gray and black transmission connectors. Any ideas on what they are? Thank you.

I just did this swap myself and other than some difficulty getting the instrument cover out if was a piece of cake. Works great and looks like it was there from the factory. Check the classified's on here. There are several part out's you can get one from.

I don't have a tilt column, I think that is why it was so difficult to get out.

The YJ's still have to drop the license plate to fill.

Got it all back together and all gauges are working except the volt gauge reads real low. A tip for anyone that is doing this, if you have a column shift put it in gear and the the top cover falls right back into place. A simple step that is not mentioned in any of the write-ups that I looked at.

Yeah I got it out. Thought sure it broke when it finally let go. Going to be fun putting it back in.

I have the screws and the little piece below the column out. It just doesn't feel like it will come out. Kind of scary flexing 28 year old plastic hoping it doesn't break.

Not sure what it is called but I have the panel that covers the gauge cluster loose but can't pull it out. I tried searching but could not find anything definitive. How do you get it out the way to get to the gauge cluster? If the column would tilt I could safely pull it out I think. Do I need to drop the column to get it out? Any help would be appreciated. Thank you.

Monstaliner is UV stable it's the Chassis Saver undercoating that is not UV stable. I did my wrangler inside and out 2 years ago and haven't actually washed it other than it getting wet from the rain. Still looks good and not that hard to apply.

Appreciate the responses, thanks guys.

I can do you one better... https://tulsa.craigslist.org/cto/5969689083.html This guy is smoking the good stuff. $8k with a salvage title?

With the coolant temp sender being a single wire the threads have to be bare for it to ground correct? Thank you for your help.

That cab over is nice! Little tall even for me but still looks like a cool ride.

Thank you guys. Probably better off replacing both sides at this point. I did notice some loose hoses while I was poking around in there.

I was thinking along those lines but figured I better ask. I will double check and see if the hose is still there just hidden. No not there. Is this what I am looking for?

I have the CCV hose off the front of the valve cover all the way to the elbow at the air box. What am I missing and where does it connect? White part inside of yellow box is what I am trying to identify. Thank you for your help.

desbennett004 which wheels are you running? Hard to see them in your avatar.

2wd and auto. Needs fuel pump and the bumper put back on. Going to go thru it with Cruiser54's tips to get it back in tiptop shape. Might end up going to 4wd before to long.

Hey everyone new member and first post. Just wanted to share our newest family member. 89 Jeep Comanche with 134k on the clock. we will be restoring back to being a drivable beauty. We are now officially a patriotic Jeep family.