dante2

TPS at .85 or 17%. IAC was cleaned when I did the throttle body. Throttle appears closed.

Idle is running between 900-1k+. Sprayed hoses and can't find a vacuum leak.

I recently got my REM installed and after talking with Nick about some issues we discovered that the REM is saying I have a manual ECU. PO told me he replaced the ECU before I bought the truck and I did have to bolt it back up myself. Now the truck has been an auto since it rolled out of the factory so do I need to get an auto ECU? Nick believes it's a good idea anybody agree or disagree with that?

I finished the distributor indexing and the idle is smoother but it is dipping between 550 and 700 at about 1 second intervals. Map has tested good, TPS is .84 what am I missing at this point?

Trying to post images but it will not let me. I will figure it out. Thanks guys.

So I use the sender from the transmission that the speedo cable attaches to for the transfer case? Do I need to be looking for a 4wd speedo cable?

Looking to do the AW4/231 swap with the more abundant HO cherokee parts that I have available in my area. My question is using 91-96 parts how do go about staying with the mechanical speedometer? Is this something I would have to use? http://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/airtex/wells,5S4691,speed+sensor,10634 Or is there another solution that I am overlooking? Appreciate the help.

How bad do you need the 4wd? How about just bolting in the axle without the front shaft until you can get a better axle? I plan on swapping in parts to make mine 4wd but I will have to do it as money permits. I have been running my YJ without the front shaft for awhile due to a bolt broke off in the yoke.

Installed the new hoses and had to re-flare the rear line again on Tuesday. I got the brakes working much better after doing the hose into a bottle of brake fluid bleed. I will be revisiting the vacuum bleed to see if I have anymore air in the system. Thank you for the help everyone.

When I bought the truck it was not running so i have no idea if this is new or not. It's making a rather loud whining sound when turning and it quiets down when driving but never really goes away. After replacing the alternator is it possible I have the belt to tight or is it pump replacement time? How tight do you run your belt on your trucks? Thank for your help.

After several leaks and re-flares I finally got it finished. Stops better than my YJ on 31's. Thanks for the help and suggestions guys.

I'm going to get me one of those since it's a pain waiting for my brothers to help me bleed brakes. They also don't pay attention when pressing the pedal so it's inconsistent... I got a Mityvac kit at HF for about $35 dollars with a 20% off coupon. Works great when your doing brakes by yourself.

Good idea I will add that to the list.

Would it be safe to blow air through the disconnected line at the prop valve and out of the bleeder orifice, bleeder out? Or should I disconnect the hard lines then do it?

Ok going to replace all of the probably original soft lines and flush the hard lines with some air. Hopefully that will take care of the brakes for a while.

I did not replace the front soft lines. When I first got the MJ the MC was leaking and I replaced it. I bled the brakes then and fluid came out just fine from that caliper. After further searching I did see that I bled the brakes wrong with the load sensing valve still hooked up. Braking did not improve due to a leaking booster (could hear a vacuum leak when braking). Went the WJ booster route and this is where I am at now.

I finished up the WJ booster/MC upgrade and the lines to the prop valve. I also deleted the load sensing valve and line from the prop valve. Now bleeding the rear brakes is not a problem but the right front is not bleeding much fluid or air like the rear does. Am I missing something or do I need to start over with an XJ prop valve? If I need a new valve which year's do I need to use? Thank you.

Pulled the blower motor and got the squirrel cage off fairly easy. That thing was just about locked up, very hard to spin by hand. Put the cage back on the new motor and unfortunately had to test it in the dark. Only tried it on low speed but it ran. I will get it installed tomorrow and check that one off the list. Thank you for the help everyone.

I tried best as I could to get 12v to the fan and I got nothing out of it. I have a new motor ordered and my weekend will be busy with fixes. Hopefully I can get it running good now.

I have no air movement in any position of the dial and I have 12v at the blower motor. I got a new resistor just to rule it out, not the problem. Anyone have a part no. for the blower switch with A/C? Thank you.

I stayed with the radiator already in the truck and used the Moroso water neck part no. 63730. I have the no spill funnel that works great on my YJ but it doesn't fit this water neck. :doh: My driveway has an incline, so I jacked up the front end and pulled the cap letting the bubbles out while it warmed up. I did drill a small hole in the top of the thermostat before I installed it.

Thank you MJCARENA. That's good news at least I won't lose any coolant with that one.

Replaced the exhaust/intake gasket today no help there. Finished up the engine grounds and I will start running thru Cruiser54's list as time allows. Any other ideas send them my way. Thanks

While changing the intake/exhaust manifold gasket on the Comanche I dropped the manifolds and broke a sensor low on the driver side of the block. It has a fuel injector type connector. After searching it comes back as a coolant temp sensor is that right? All of the temp sensors that I can find look like the sensor on the back of the head. Any ideas? If you need a pic let me know. Thank you.

Manifold bolts will be here Saturday. Any other ideas or suggestions?