shaylec

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Your right. I agree. No offense intended. This is a very informative club/board. I'm glad to have found it. Over and out.

Sounds like hornbrod knows what he is talking about. Infact next next time i have a problem i will remember this link and search on horbrod to get good, complete information. I'm the guy that disconnects things to cause failures and just see what happens. Hornbrod studies and understands failure mechanisms like the jeep mechanic you wish you had nearby.

I like to think of it as if your aw4 has a clutch inside that your aw4 or its ecu controls. It won't fully let out the clutch unless it senses that your giving it some throttle... but your tps is telling it that its not giving any throttle even thou your actually flooring it. If you do that with a manual trans you will be slipping the clutch and burning up your clutch plate. If you disconnect the aw4 ecu ( Under dash by passangers feet, it will slip really bad until it seems to figure out that its disconnected and goes into some kind of semi functional loopback mode.

I know its hard to believe, but yes. I want to return my truck to its original build configuration. Its is a very basic bench seat, dummy light, column shift, np231. But its a metric ton. And it a long bed.

Looking for a instrument cluster for a 1989 comanche with 4.0 and AW4 automatic trans. The gear select indicator is in the cluster and a wire comes out and connects to the shifter on the column. Has dummy lights instead of gauges. Blue plastic housing. It has a speedometer cable input.

Looking for a good pair of Comanche rear flare inner liners.

If its to big and can be removed when locked then I wasted money. If it just rattles i can wrap it in black electrical tape. I will let you know. I do like the alternatives you guys posted.

Yes its been s problem. Actually, with all the drug addicts encouraged to live here on the left coast, anything made of metal is fair game to be stolen. http://www.latimes.com/business/autos/la-fi-hy-truck-tailgate-theft-rises-20140902-story.html

The main thing is to prevent rust from getting out of control. Someday when you are rich and famous youll still have a comanche to paint and the money. Here is a link to factory color spray paint you can order for now. http://www.automotivetouchup.com/spray_paint_matched.aspx I also have old rusty mercedes diesels i like to play with. This guy from the pacific nortwest has got the rust repair figured out to a science. His miracle paint is impermeable. https://mercedessource.com/store/miracle-paint-underbody-complete-sheetmetal-rust-repair-kit-extras

Here is a link to a tailgate lock that I'm going to try. Its $20. https://www.etrailer.com/p-LH-090.html

http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL1591/13751038/24757199/413122900.jpg

That bench looks awesome! Very nice.

For those who are innocent, fear not. But for those who harrass me for my admitted ignorance, i will reach into my bag of voodoo juju magic and give you what i like to refer to as "The mj smack down"... at the worst possible time..like when its storming and your on your way to pick up a hot date.

I here what your saying. I was interpreting rough at idle more as misfiring. A little rough idle when the engine is cold is business as usual. I will definitely check out your info. Thanks! I kind of like that rough idle sound first thing in the morning while i sip on my coffee.. Reminds me that I'm not drivin a hownda... I get about 17 mpg on the highway, and 19mpg when I'm lieing.

That very funny gene! Ive driven without a battery and Ive driven with out an alternator.... A second battery in my passer seat connected to the battery under the hood with jumper cables.... it helps to have some bright moonlight with your headlights off... funny.

Since you have already gone through most of the likely sensor culprits, i second the egr system as likely. When either the egr solenoid or egr are not engaging, you feel engine hesitation or even stall when you press the gas pedal. When your trying to drive calmly in the grocery store parking lot it sounds like your contantly reving the engine and never a nice sooth idle as you cruise. May stall when you try to accelerate hard. I. Not sure about the poor hiway mileage. Its easy to trouble shoot under the hood. If you look carefully you should see the egr valve engage when you quickly throttle the engine. If you don't see this then check the egr solenoid by disconnecting the output tube and putting your thumb over the nipple. You should feel the solenoind suck on your thumb when you throttle and should probablyfeel the solenoid clicking when you thrittle hard. If not clean the egr solenoid with some wd40. These egr solenoudshardly ever fail. Just get dirty. On some years like 1989 the egr valve has a tranducer valve at the input to the egr. These often fail. Unfortunately you have to buy the whole egr valve to get it. On the 87 it doesnt have this problem. Actually since its already running rough at idle when you first start up, and it gets better when warm its probably not the egr. Check it anyway. Map sensor or vacuum line leak going to sensor would be my first bet. The jiggling at idle also makes me think it could be ignition or timing related. Coil, distributor, cables plugs. Also, the firing is suposed to retard and advance based on rpm. This is checked with a strobe light on the crrack shaft pully i believe. Ive done it but i forget. Some degrees before or after top dead center. This is an area where a rebuild can be done wrong. The timing chain and alignment can't be off.

Thanks for the degreasing warning. That may be very well what killed my throttle tps. I will be more careful next time i spray engine degreaser.

Thanks for the link. I really like that little charger's test features. Not expensive either. I admit, i use the pull the battery technique when i don't have a meter on me, and I'm always worried about damaging the alternator when doing it.

I have heard that removing the battery cable while the engine is running could be hard on the rectifier diodes in the alternator. But i have never experienced this personally. I just wouldnt make a habit of doing this. Only do it once when diagnosing your engine stalling problem.

When the engine is running, if you disconnect a battery cable from a battery terminal, the engine will continue to run if the alternator is good. If the engine immediayely dies after the cable is removed, your alternator is dead.

These Aw4 are pretty amazingly durable. If your Aw4 starts to feel like its slipping, it is most likely the (TPS) throttle position sensor failing. Based on my personal experience. The tps has a potentiometer in it. They wear out. I had this aw4 slipping problem and i hooked up an old snapon diagnostic tool with the jeep module installed and it showed the tps out of tolerance at idle. I reved it up and the tps was erratic. I replaced the tps and all was good again.