AMC86Kid

I found this F7A70931-5042-4B92-B94A-F7D808D90ED1.jp instead of getting a timing tab I can just use timing tape find TDC like eagle said mark it and line it up with zero on the tape then when I use a timing light I can see where 10 degrees before zero is and I can get real close to where I need to be

Green Mesa is right the water pumps are different but i looked up the info on the harmonic balancers and they are both the same size (6.406 in. OD)so this means that TDC should be the same and the timing tab on the 2.8 will work on the 3.4 since the angle of the 2.8 will match the curve of the 3.4 Har-Bal and the spacing from zero to 10 degrees would be the same too

Thanks Eagle and yes I understand that the 2.8 is externally balanced and the 3.4 is not so it makes sense that the harmonic balancer can not be swapped I was just trying to see if the diameter of the harmonic balance is the same on both engine sizes since this will determine if the timing tab would be around the same location and the distance in degrees would match also i also found this : Base timing should be in the 10*-14* BTDC ballpark before adjusting the carb.

do you have a 2.8 ? can you measure the harmonic balancer and i can measure mine so we can see if there the same size ? and for location you mean when your standing in front of the engine looking at it its on the top right side of the harmonic balancer wheel ??

Thanks Green Mesa is the pic from a 2.8 MJ ?? also where is that tab located ? is it on the top right of the bottom crank shaft and how big is the crankshaft pulley ? do you think the 3.4 is the same size pulley ?

Ok so my 3.4 needs the timing set on it I can get it running but it idles high and it sounds off timing my questions are : What is the proper timing on the 2.8 ? Where is the timing tab or degree indicator on the 2.8 ? My 3.4 was originally fuel injected so the computer of the Firebird set the timing correctly there for I have no timing degree indication on my rebuilt engine

There’s a Comanche for sale here in town My question to you guys is how much do you think it’s worth ? Do you think anyone would spend 8k on it? https://phoenix.craigslist.org/cph/ctd/d/phoenix-1986-jeep-comanche-xls-4x4/7094550303.html

Nice I’ve never seen a 3.1 I wonder if anyone has done the swapped and what there thoughts on it are

but does the 3.1 bolt up to the same tranny as the 2.8 ?

Did the 3.1 have the same 60 degree bell housing as the 3.4 ? Also forgot to mention the 2.8 is not even internally balanced, they had to weld a chunk of metal to the fly wheel to get it externally balanced

the 2.8 has an alt thats around 70 amps the 3.4 alt is around 100 amps

Thanks for the recommendation I’ve never heard of Por-15 but it looks like good stuff

Yes you can put a real alternator in it but you got to modify it to fit where the old one was and you have to add new wiring to accommodate the new alternator in other words its not just an easy swap since you can’t use the old plug from the old alt on a new alt

Ok cleaned the rest of the area off and it looks fine, no other rust What type of new undercoat do you guys recommend ?

Keep in mind the 86 doesn’t have a real alternator it’s just a simple 2 wire charger so it’s very common that your battery goes bad and you have to change it depending on how much you drive and what weather cycles it goes threw

Yes that’s the next step to reinstall it and see if it works, I will start the reinstallation tomorrow and see how far I can get

Well I got the rebuilds done on both tranny and t-case

What does it look like ? Any pics

This is under the truck on top of the bell housing area but what is it or what is it for ?

Ok will look on the inside of the truck when I get there, currently I’ve been looking all over under the truck and can’t find any other spots, weird how it’s just rusty in the one area

It’s the floor on the passenger side

My truck has one rust hole thankfully it’s not huge I say around 3-4 inches how do you guys recommend this to be fixed ?

Looks like yes it is I wonder if I fill in the gap with silicone if that makes it stiffer and better

Is the cross member bracket suppose to have the gap between the metal and rubber ?

Is 15 ft lbs really enough for they pump cover ?