DJM/78

Funny , I've spent many sleepless nights burning the midnight oil , my truck doesn't look anything like that . I think they forgot to add the boat load of cash it took to build it ...

:agree: Without the primer coat the newer paint has a problem sticking to bare metal , it tends to run on you if you're not careful on the first couple passes and sometimes it never really bonds to the surface completely anyway . My favorite paint jobs have the baked on method , trying not to go down to the metal unless I had too and using a two stage primer / sealer . I also used fine cut fiberglass instead of Bondo in areas where I had no choice but to fill . However thats allot of work on that stuff , but the fiberglass lasts soooo much longer up here in UV ray town .

Pics of progress ...

Thanks man , I haven't gotten around to building some of the things I set out to do this summer , but its getting there . I finally got all the steering box bolts in and cleaned up and the rear bumper is in the works right now . Bring it old man winter ...

Thanks ! Yeah , I was thinking about that . I haven't done any real hard core wheeling and they haven't come loose yet but that may very well be in the future at the same time I swap for ALCAN leafs . The disc brakes are Tera - Flex , Uber expensive but worth it ... Stopping on ice has improved greatly ever since I upgraded that , also no more unwanted tire lock but still enough control that if you want to lock them you can .

Probably no reason to strip it to steel unless there's some cancer , Ideally you can just " scuff " the old clear off if the surface is straight and clean . Trick is to get all the sanding dust out of the scuffed surface before applying any other coats . However once clean , the base primer coat will stick real good to the old surface . Its been a long time since I've painted anything so newer products are probably available and easier methods might be available .

Standard base and clear , I kind of wish they would have used a better method , I think most of our trucks would be in better shape . Wet sanding after first and second coat of prime offers a way better flatter finish but that depends on your patience and time frame for completion . I've just sprayed the crap out of it before without much sanding between coats and it came out great except some orange peal effect in the finish . Different paints and thinners from different companies act different , I'd say use what paint and methods he has seen to be successful .

Got ya' covered ... Don't have any recent pics but let me know if you need more ...

If you're planning on SOA than use your existing rear springs , along with what SOA kit you use will depend on final height . With a D44 and a Tera Flex SOA kit I ended up 6"in the rear and 5.5" in the front and still used my stock leafs . Some will say other things like steering and SYE kits should be in the list and I agree but not a must .

Its nice to finally see your thread , keep the pics coming ... Purple power is the shiznat , I like to heat it up with a mixture of steaming water and watch it react with oil on parts .

Kickin' @$$ and steelin' parts , way to score up that black interior . I wish I had that much know how on the 97+ swap .

Sure turned all the bolts on that one . Way to keep it clean as usual and nice write up too , the pics are great and the attention to detail is top notch .

Just a freshening up. I got all new speakers and a sub, new woodgrain pieces from an XJ, and I plan to replace every little cracked or dis-colored part. I still have to paint and install the tailgate, flares and all the little stuff. Its almost a year since I started this!! Ditto , its been almost a year since I started mine , I still need to attack the interior .

Very nice , looks like something the factory would do , what are you doing to the interior ?

No those are RE mono tubes , Rebadged Bilstein's ... The front bumper is set up for crawling , the boulders here in Colorado are unforgiving to say the least , most of the guys around here keep everything up and out of the way or you'll just smash it up anyway . I got the bumper because mine was more for looks , this one has the reinforced steering box bolts and the other bolts for rigidity , that way for recovery I won't stretch out my header panel or EF up the unibody in any way .

Why do you need hydraulic assist for a street vehicle? I don't see why you would need the stronger tie rod either. Willy The tie rod and steering aren't an absolute but the stock parts are all wore out , I could pull some stuff at the yard or find some parts on line but by the time I find , pay for and install said parts , I might as well replace them with parts I'll eventually put on anyway , needed ? No , wanted ? Yes . I drove a chopped and lowered V8 CJ , with a Vortec V8 that had a similar MJ front axle and steering set up . Handling was amazing and cornering with the steering was breeze . one finger turning with big wide tires .

Thanks , its been a while since I've had time to work on the 92" , or time to do anything for that matter but its been on my mind for about six months to get this V8 at least rebuilt and prepped for swap by spring . I'll try to use as much of the original wiring and parts that I can to keep cost down going into the 91" . Parts I know I'll need : Novac V8 radiator Ford 8.8 rear axle W/discs Novac V8 motor mounts for the XJ Block hugger headers Custom made driveshaft V8 coils for the front Chromoly solid tie rod Gauges Parts that will have to be fabricated for sure ; 4 link for the 8.8 Steering and hydro assist Trans mounting brackets Dash panel and instrument cluster Frame reinforcement and added bracing for over rear axle

Thanks MJdude , These are some other projects that are going to be in the works during the winter ... I'm taking this ... From this ... into this ...

Body is no where near as good of shape as yours but thanks . So far I've got to do the over axle track bar mount and long arms , truss or swap the turdy with a 44 . After that everything but the motor and trans , electrical and bodywork will be completely restored . Witch is good because a couple of things REALLY need to be done , all the fun stuff is over , time to get to work . Wiring on the old beast is starting to be a beeaaach , RMS is starting to leave puddles and I desperately need window motor bushings before mother nature starts to crap all over us again .

Thanks , 35"s x12.5 R15 , I wasn't a big fan of the bumper until I saw it on , now I love it . Sure helps the approach angle as well .

Hello all , its been a wile since I've had time to post anything Manche specific for quite some time . Been working on a couple things but the sun is starting to go down early around here and it was time to work on the 92" . A local guy down here in the Springs made me a front winch bumper and I finally got some beefy rubber to go with my lift . The bumper is a Frank Z custom from NAXJA , built very well and over reinforced . These are some pics of the install ... The bumper looked so good I had to throw on some new rubber ...

Here goes the worst opinion in the club , scrap the the whole leaf spring idea and 4 link the rear , the front I would put ZJ coils shaved to preference . Having a bucket of water to keep the springs from getting hot would be a good idea . Try to get new springs , my Caprice bottoms out because who ever cut the springs did it with old parts .

One of nicest rigs on the site , I've always loved the green paint .

I've used sealed power kits before without a problem other than operator error ... :dunce: Most of the shops around here carry Felpro in stock if not sealed power , I'm doing a half and half to a 5.7L TPI V8 for the 91" . ( half Felpro half sealed power )

Novac makes headers and motor mounts for SBC swaps , built just for our trucks . I've got the mounts but I am a ways out from getting the motor in .