Gene

Hi SBpunk, Thanks for the link. I had been looking at one of these for a reasonable price, anything that I had found had been about three times this much. That certainly will make bleeding easier. Gene

I hope that's the case! Every time I had to touch the rear brake lines, I had to replace everything, from the proportioning valve (under the master cylinder) back to the axle, and the lines over to each wheel cylinder. At least in our neck of the woods, the long lines, especially where they pass between the frame and the gas tank, are what rust first and worst. If this should be just one isolated line, and there's not much rust on the nuts or fittings, agreed it would be much much easier. Bleeding is still a bear! Gene

Plus, you may not actually have a rear main seal leak. There are many threads on this, here's a link to one http://comancheclub.com/topic/53135-oil-leak-after-new-rear-main-install/?hl=rear+main Basically leaks almost anywhere on the engine will settle to the back of the oil pan and look like a rear main seal leaking. You may want to change the valve cover and any other easy ones first. Gene

http://cruiser54.com/?p=100 should be helpful. That repair estimate sounds WAY high. Gene

Hi Don, I just had to Google that one… Looks like one sweet ride! :banana: Gene

Yup, how many other people out there remember the joy of setting point gaps? The plastic rubbing block on the movable point arm would have to be at the high point of the distributor cam. Then a feeler gauge would be used to actually set the point gap. Getting the distributor cam right at the high point could be challenging. A big American V-8 was very difficult to turn over by hand, if there was a fan clutch it became about impossible. So you would have to bump the starter, look to see if you were there, bump it again, bump it again, bump it again… And if the distributor was at the back of the engine (Dodge 318) you would pretty much be crawling into the engine compartment to even see things. And, as either the points or the rubbing block wore, ignition timing would be retarded. On the other hand, a Volkswagen beetle could be done pretty much with your eyes closed in your sleep! Gene

I believe electronic ignition was federally mandated for 1975 model year, as were catalytic converters. Chrysler started using electronic ignition for most of its vehicles for the 1973 model year. Pretty sure the above is right....I lived through it.... Gene

Speaking of filler hoses.... http://comancheclub.com/topic/52822-fuel-filler-hose/?hl=fuel+filler Gene

Hi Rob, Not sure where you're located, but if your vehicle has seen road salt over the winters, you're probably in for a major job. All the rear lines may be rotted out. I'm guessing, from your description, that it is the hard metal line that broke, not the rubber hose. The rubber hose would be much simpler. There are numerous threads about rear brakes. There are two lines that come from front to back, one being the main braking line, the other being an emergency circuit to give full pressure to the back if you lose front brakes. There is also a height sensing valve connected to the rear axle, to help to adjust the amount of force the back brakes have. In my case, Western Pennsylvania/Western Maryland winters, about every seven years I would have to totally redo the rear brake lines. These are not available premade, you have to either piece together preformed sections (if I recall, 5 foot +5 foot +1 foot will reach the rear axle) or buy a 25 foot coil and a double flare tool, and make up your own lines. http://comancheclub.com/topic/38551-rear-brakes-main-hardline-broken-above-gas-tank/?hl=rear+brake+lines&do=findComment&comment=477933 http://comancheclub.com/topic/33072-rear-brake-lines/?hl=rear+brake+lines This would also be the time to replace the rear rubber hose, as well as wheel cylinders. Bleeding rear brakes is a subject unto itself, there are numerous threads about this, it's complicated and time-consuming. http://comancheclub.com/topic/52319-proper-brake-bleeding-procedure/?hl=brake+bleeding Finally, there are threads about simplifying the rear system. http://comancheclub.com/topic/51268-load-height-sensing-valve-delete-bypass/?hl=rear+brake+lines&do=findComment&comment=522799 Good luck! Gene

http://comancheclub.com/topic/12163-acronyms/ This perhaps? About halfway down Gene

Hi texasjack Other more experienced will answer this better, but I think "Yes" is the answer. You would be using an HO engine in a Renix chassis so... http://cruiser54.com/?p=100 as usal cruiser is the man! Gene

Cumberland, Md, which is about 2 hours from Pittsburgh, Pa Gene

Hi everyone, Thanks for your patience reading and responding to my multiple threads over the last few days. Latest concern: Let's say I were to purchase a Comanche, let's say 400 miles and several states away. How do I get it home? The obvious concern would be reliability, I think it would be pushing my luck to drive a new-to-me 29ish year old vehicle a significant distance. Second problem is the legality of this. At least in Maryland, there is no provision for a temporary tag, you pretty much have to go through full registration, which would require having the title, before hand. I would have access to a Ford F150. U-Haul offers a dolly, front wheels off the ground, or a trailer, all four wheels off the ground. It looks like, weight wise, these would be within specs for a F150. Anyone have experience with these? Okay idea/bad idea/horrible idea? Any other thoughts? Again, thanks for all the responses over the last few days. Gene

Hey Don, You just about made me cry. Looks so much like my 88 did 29 years ago.... Gene

delivery included? Nah. Gene needs a road trip this summer. So cruiser, Buy a bunch of rust free MJs and XJs and haul them all up to the snow/rust belt. You can have a mobile classic Jeep sale and make out like a bandit! Gene

Hi everyone, In my other thread http://comancheclub.com/topic/53126-will-my-comanche-break-in-half/ I'm getting the idea that it would not be a real successful endeavor to try to repair my 88. So lets say I find a rust free, probably southern, Comanche. Being southern it would probably be RWD. I would then like to swap drivetrains. What would work? I realize an 88 longbed 5 speed would be best....but what else? Keeping it Renix would be easier. Does long vs shortbed make a big difference (besides rear driveshaft)? Standard transmission would be easier. How much would it complicate things if the new vehicle were a 4 cylinder? Sorry for the randomess of the questions, but I think you get the idea of what I am asking. Thanks! Gene

Thanks Eagle, So I mentioned that the rust looked much worse.... Would you believe that 2 years ago I hauled over a ton of gravel in this?? Gene

Hi Don, You are probably right (as usual) . When my friend gets time to take a look, he will probably tell me the same. He does work fairly inexpensively (In his spare time so it takes a while) so if he agrees to work on it the cost may not be astronomical. I'm just driving it infrequently, gently, and close to home. Thanks Gene

I have to agree with this, I've seen some bad MJ frames but this is easily one of if not the worst... Hi ComancheKid, Yeah, if you are in Shippensburg and call this the worst you have seen, that is saying something.... I actually grew up in Scranton, just up the road from you. We have lived in western Pa/western Md. for the last 30 years, and the Comanche is my winter vehicle, so it has seen lots of snow and salt. Western Maryland pretreats roads with a white liquid form of salt, that dries on the road, I've heard it is a combination of sodium and calcium salts. Whatever makes it stick to roads seems to make it stick to vehicles, and greatly accelerate rust and corrosion. I suspect this may be the end of the line for this Comanche. So the fantasy plan would be to get a southern Comanche with no rust. These seem to be be rear wheel drive. Then switch the 4 wheel drive drivetrain over.... Thanks Gene

Hi DirtyComanche, If you could do that without a lot of hassle, it might give me another option. Thanks Gene

Hi Gene. A lot. Born and brought up in New England. Never again.. Hi Don, Then I stand humbly corrected :bowdown: :yes: ! So do you still sound New England in the midst of the land of southern drawl? And which sports teams do you favor? Gene

Hi Don, Vehicle was repainted a while ago. You are seeing overspray. I knew the frame had rust, but no major holes. It was only when I started probing that the extent of the damage became evident. Besides, what does someone from Alabama know about rust? :???: :???: :???: Yes yellaheep, Kroil and a torch (propane for me, I'm not in the big leagues) become good friends. Gene

Hi Pete, That explains a lot. I was pulling fair sized pieces of rusted metal out of the frame rails. They were probably the inner layer that had disintegrated. Was the bottom of the frame 4 layers, two double layers overlapped? So that must complicate welding new metal in? Thanks Gene

Thanks Eagle Any idea of the original frame thickness? The bottom especially seemed beefy, maybe 1/4" if I could guess. Gene

http://imgur.com/dDy5qvg http://imgur.com/xLpduSk http://imgur.com/aRDsktB http://imgur.com/flk1NQ6 http://imgur.com/PnGsN98