victorgallas

Has anyone have experience on replacing the main bearings in the car? I can get to them, but the one in question is on the 2.5l engine. The rear main seal is put from the flywheel side, so will removing the last bearig block, while keeping the others in place, will it dislodge the seal out of place? Trying to avoid having to pull the trans again. Any advice guys? Also, what best place to.source the bearings?

Turn out the knock is due to failed bearings. Gonna order me some. And replace from underneath... Damng it

Guys, I have the ax4 four speed one. Just out a brand new clutch kit with a new luk slave. I left the straps on it slduring install. However after putting it all together I went to bleed the clutch and my pedal is loose from the top to the middle, then you can feel that is the point it starts to build pressure. I can't get the clutch to disengage fully when the pedal is pressed. also has a new master cylinder. Any advice on how to bleed these ax4 with Ibternal slaves better? Have this setup btwm

yeah I replaced the damper I did make sure the oil slinger is there on the right orientation, I did check that before. plus when I pulled the timing cover out, there was no signs of scrapping or rubbing anywhere on the inside of the cover. One thing I did notice was that the noise you can hear on the video link I posted was after putting a thicker 10w40 oil. Before I was running 5-30 and the noise was not so pronounced, it was there but not so loud. So it made me think, maybe a bad oil pump? I do have another one that I will try too. Also just out fresh gas, gonna run it in the am and see what I get. Chasing this has been a pita

Hi everyone, Been a while since Ive been here, mainly its been due to spending time working on the body of the comanche to get it painted, as I am doing a full restoration on this. We got the truck back and now I am finishing up the assembly and fixing some of the issues here and there. Since we got this truck is would do a little knock/noise at idle. Initially I thought it was bad lifters, so I put a whole new set of lifter and rods, and cleaned up everything. It would still do the noise once a while but figured it would go away after a while. Then after driving back and forth around town a bit I noticed the same noise is there at idle all the time. The noise comes from the lower parts of the engine a the front. I was wondering if it was the camshaft rubbing against the timing cover, but I checked it and its clean. i also upgraded the retaining bolt with the hollow bolt and spring and pin to keep the cam pushed back. Noise is still there. The noise is this pinging noise. It seems to only occur at idle, as soon as you rev it goes away. Oil pressure is right at 45 and steady at idle. Doesnt matter if the engine is cold or hot, it still does it. Now, i will admit that the gas in the truck is probably about a year old, since its been there since I started working on it. I know old gas can cause problems too, so I am dumping the old gas out this weekend and putting fresh one, i will report back on what the gas does. But figured to post here in the meantime to see if anyone recognized this noise and has any advice. Any ideas? I read on other places people talking about carbon build up on the pistons could cause this, Chrysler had a technical notice about it. Then others cay its piston slap. Here is a link of the video, turn up the volume. https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/104532481/VID_20160807_151718335.mp4 If anyone can give me any suggestions, that would be awesome. thanks!

Does someone have a good schematic of what needs to be done to install the willwood valve? I know there is a return line from the back and was wondering how exactly to route these lines?

You can find it on Rock auto: https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=6303534&cc=1181764&jnid=536&jpid=18 I just picked one up for mine.

Thanks for the extra items added guys. Here is what I got at NAPA yesterday. 2 13671 Napa Seal Rear Axle Inner 2 16747 Napa Seal Rear Axle Outer 2 BR9VP Bearing Rear Axle Glad its all ready to install now. Just gonna tidy up the rear brakes a bit before installing the axles, since there is more space that way. Each day closer to run this down the street :)

Thanks for the postings. I was able to take the parts to NAPA and we where able to find all the parts. Turns out that even thou its a 1991, it has an axle made in 1989 lol. Go figure. Either way, for the axles ready to pop back in. Ill update the parts list of what I got later tonight here for future reference to others. Thanks everyone!

Hey everyone, So I am now working on the rear axle of the truck. Doing the brakes and while at it, I am fixing a seal leak on the passenger side from the stub shafts. I took them out last night and I am having a hard time locating the correct parts for the stub axles. I need the bearings, inner and outer seals for it. I have a DANA 35C non C Clip Version. Could anyone provide me with some help? I think I found the correct bearings for it here: http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/BCA0/A9.oap?pt=03337&ppt=C0362 However, I still can't locate the seals. This axle uses an inner and outer seal, since the bearing itself is a tapered roller bearing that you are supposed to repack with grease. The inner seal that i took out had a stamp of : S-395 on it. But I can't cross reference that online to anything. I cannot press the bearing out myself, so I can't see any markings on the outer seal right now. Any inputs will be greatly appreciated it. Thanks everyone,

One thing to add here. If you use DOT 5 on a system that was designed for DOT 4 or 3, the seals will swell. You should never use a silicone based fluid on systems that are not designed for DOT5. Ive seen many guys destroy brand new AP Racing calipers because their mentality was "Because Racecar", when in reality the seals are not designed to withstand the silicone. They swell up and then will never work again.

Thank you! I never came across these until this car. yeah ill be looking for a set now. Thanks again.

Hey Everyone, I have a very quick question to ask regarding the Jeep wheels. When I acquired the Comanche, I thought the previous owner had the chrome rim cover on all wheels. Turns out I am missing one. I cannot find out what are those called, or where to find them Here is a picture of the wheel. https://www.dropbox.com/s/kn249sl08ctvn4l/jeep_wheel_cover.jpg?dl=0 This is on a 15 inch rim. Could anyone just provide me with a name for it or where I could find these chrome covers? if I search jeep wheel cover, I get a full size wheel cover. These are just a chrome ring. Thanks VH

Anyone?

I know... I need a friend to come by and help so it hasn't happened yet. I did think that if the valve opened up the brake light would come on the indicator panel, so I assumed it wasn't opening so it wasn't the issue. I know there could be air in there so I need to bleed by opening the front bleeder on passenger side, then making sure the light comes on, then bleeding the rear, then closing the front passenger bleeder, then re-bleeding all 4 again. I didn't know about that when I bled it the first time and just did it regular way bleeding all 4. It could be the issue I guess, some air in there, so it presses down all the way and doesn't stop it. I am getting no light on the indicator panel though. I will see if I can find a buddy to come help me bleed them the right way. I've been through two different rear axles, booster/master upgrade, and converted the rears to disk brakes. All this stuff required new brake lines and full bleeding when done each time. I've never had to do the load sensing valve bleed procedure and have great brakes. I'm not saying this isn't your problem, but I doubt it. Maybe I've just been lucky. would you mind sharing the bleed procedure for the load valve? Also, i am having to fabricate a rod to connect the axle to the valve. How do you go about adjusting it \? When the truck is sitting still with no weight on the back, should the arm on the valve be horizontal as a starting point? Thanks

Hi everyone, First off, thanks everyone for the pointers on my previous post regarding the cluster swap. Got pretty much everything ready to go on that one. Today I was working on putting the engine back together and i was working on the timing cover and timing components. As I was putting things together I noticed two main issues. First: The camshaft bolt does not employ the trust pin used on the 6 cylinder engines. The Haynes Manual doesnt mention anything like this for the 4 cylinder. Is this correct? 4 Cyl did not get the hollow bolt with the trust pin on them? I ask, because as you can see on my pictures, if I pull on the camshaft outwards, it can slide out about 0.300" away from the block. I am wondering if this would then hit the timing cover and cause problems? Second: When I took the engine apart, I noticed how the previous owner had added a random small pulley as a bolt spacer to hold the crank damper in place. I decided to do a quick dry run and I pressed the crank damper in place using the proper install tools. I then noticed how when the nose of the crankshaft sits flush with the crankshaft damper at the front, there is a 0.303" gap at the back; in between the back of the vibration damper and the timing chain sprocket. I have access to a lathe and I can make a spacer. But I want to know is this spacer should be made to take up the space between the back of the vibration damper and the timing sprocket, or should I push the vibration damper all the way in to touch the timing chain sprocket and just add the spacer up front behind the vibration damper crank bolt? Any inputs on this will help me to know what to do next. Thanks anyone. regards VH pics: https://www.dropbox.com/s/qz9xw9du08v4i14/jeep3.jpg?dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/s/xyehq4ru3b17fb6/jeep2.jpg?dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/s/3qb5hiacan1p3l8/jeep1.jpg?dl=0

From what I could gather. The three wire sensors are an active speed sensor. meaning they take Ground, Power and then signal out. This signal is a nice digital signal, or square wave. A two wire speed sensor is a passive device on which the only wires are ground and signal. On these, the signal output will be sinusoidal, which is more prone to noise. However the cluster is just looking for a frequency input, which both sensors will supply. This is the reason using either sensor should work. I havent fitted the cluster yet, but I feel that this is the reason it works. This is from experience on setting up pickup sensors for engine crankshaft and camshaft pickups for aftermarket programmable ECUs

Hey Thanks for letting me know about the sensor and wire. Do you know which sensor I should be using on a 4 speed AX trans? I don't mind buying a new sensor, so i can be plug and play for me :) Or the other option I got, is to pull the speed sensor out of the car that I got the cluster from at the junkyard. Its a 1994 Xj with an auto. Will that speed sensor even work with my manual trans? I have the car apart right now fixing other issues, including a dash replacement, so I don't have a problem to run extra wires. Thanks again for the reply.

Hey, Thanks for replies everyone. So I got an early model cluster that is before the 91 date, so the case is the blue one with the speedometer driven by a cable. I then took it apart and compared against the speedometer of the 94 XJ, which has a white case. My cluster that came with the 1991 comanche, is a white case as well. I think the case color denotes the generation, or cluster revision used. I did see that for the tach, there is an adjustable potentiometer on the board, so It seems that I can adjust the tach to match the 4 cyl since it came out of a 6 cyl. Ill keep you guys posted. The car is all apart as I am doing a bunch of fixes. this also included replacing the dashboard, since the one that came with it was completely torn, cracked and ripped.

Hey Everyone, I want to first thank everyone on answering some of the previous questions on my past post here. I got a cluster out of a 1994 XJ 6 cylinder. I wanted to swap it into my 1991 MJ 4 cylinder. I did search online about the swap and i saw that very early clusters can be dropped in as those use speedometer cables instead of a speed sensor in the transmission. I want to get rid of the idiot lights cluster. Can this 1994 be dropped in it? Or any mods to make the tach work are needed? I already sort out the sensors for it. Any inputs would be very welcome. Thanks again! Regards

Thanks for the replies guys. I was able to locate one on ebay tonight. So its on its way now. I got a 4 cylinder manual. Looking forward to drive it around once I get done doing all of the things Ive been going over. All gaskets, fluids etc to make it a nice truck all around. I will keep in mind some of the suggestions regarding the MJ. I want to make sure it all works good on this truck once I am done fixing all the little stuff here and there.

Hi everyone, I just picked up a 1991 comanchw with the 2.5L 4 speed manual. Its a nice little truck and I am trying to make it work as a daily driver. So making everything back to stock options on things. I have been seeing that some parts are not offered anymore and I am wondering if anyone can be of help. I currently need a parking brake release latch and cable. I would also like to replace the parking brake lever assembly, as I know those get worn down and let go. Can anyone provide a source for these? Or have one to sell? I have already looked at ebay without luck. Anything will be appreciated. Thanks Victor