victorgallas

Hey, So i did more digging here. For the 87 up to 90, the distributor rotor is set at six oclock. From 91 to 95, distributor is set at 3 oclock. http://www.autozone.com/repairinfo/repairguide/repairGuideMain.jsp?pageId=0900c1528008aa69 Did this and the engine started right up. I also was concerned of being too retarded, but this seems to be the correct setting for fuel injected, later model ones. I just installed a brand new MAP, O2, Air temp, Engine temp, TPS and Idle valve on the engine, all new. For the OBD codes, the light on the dash is not on. Does this mean that it does not have any stored codes? I did just refresh the entire cluster during the rebuild and I know the bulb works. When you turn the car on, the light comes one for the ECu then goes off after the engine is running. Before when I had a bad TPS, since it got dunked in parts cleaner by accident, the CEL light was on. I put a new TPS and the lights went away and runs without any lights on the cluster. I just ordered a new crank sensor, wondering if a failing one could cause any misses? Thanks for the quick reply everyone. Vh

Hey everyone. I need help with my Jeep from the gurus here. Its a 1991 2.5L 4 cyl engine with the fuel injection system. It has the injector per cylinder setup on this. I have pretty much replaced all of the sensors on the engine, cleaned it all up inside and even added new main bearings and connecting rod bearings as they where shot when I bought the car. Since doing all the work, the engine has been running smooth and the truck runs alright. But I do notice a lack of power; I know its the 4 cylinder, but I always have to give it good amount of gas to get it going. My biggest headache is that I am getting about 12 to 13 MPG, which I think its insane! I have no leaks on the intake, fuel pump, filter and all those maintenance items are new as well. The only thing that I recall not checking before was the position of the rotor in the distributor when installing a new distributor I got. I used the haynes manual and it stated that when installed, the rotor should be at the six o clock position when you are standing on the side of the engine. The front of the engine is to your right shoulder and the back to your left and you are staring right at the distributor in front of you. In this six oclock installation, I couldnt even get the engine to start. I could feel that the engine would try to start and it would stop the started right away. In a way I feel that it was too advanced. I then began to look around and some other sites are listing that the rotor should be installed at the 3 o clock position, essentially poiting forwards. My question here is. What is the correct rotor position for a 2.5L 1991 Engine with the port fuel injection electronic setup? Any tips here? What other areas could be causing my poor fuel economy? Crank sensor at the rear of the engine? That is pretty much the last sensor I havent touched... Any ideas will be very welcome. At this point i want to drive this daily but with a 12 MPG thats a little absurd...

Thanks guys! Actually no rust in there, as we had the entire truck re painted with the glass removed, so they could paint the seal area properly :) I ended up using a micro USB cam and found that the water is coming in from the top seam, at the cab corner and roof. I think i can patch it up from the inside without removing the glass. i still have the interior out as i am still finishing the restoration process.

Hey everyone I have been slowly restoring a comanche here and I am trying to wrap it up. I just had the rear glass re installed with fresh sealer. I just had a chance to run water on the car and I get water in the cab. Its very little ammount, but its coming in. i can see the water trickling down on the back wall behind the plastic trim pieces. You can see what I mean on this picture below: https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/104532481/leak1.jpg I wanted to ask if anyone attempted to repair this by putting some sealant on the outside, between the paint and the rubber seal, as a way to prevent water from leaving down that way. https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/104532481/leak2.jpg Any input? What are you guys suggestions to dealing with this water leakeage? All the best Victor

I had this issue when I put newer seals on my truck. i had to tweak the door lock adjustment and door mounting bolt so that the door wasnt closing so tight against the seals, this way it closes easy. Just takes some adjusting to do.

Let me clarify, when I did the procedure, I did not remove the crank, since it was attached to the transmission. I had to rotate the crank with a small cotter pin in the oil passage to rotate the upper bearing out. It work well.

Yeah, that's what I figured. The engine is running so smooth and quiet, it's awesome. Pretty happy with it. Just gonna enjoy it as is. Should something come up later that prompts and engine tear down, then I'll revisit that last one.

Perfect. I'll give that a shot. Thanks again!

I had a hard sputtering under accel on my 2.5l engine. Turned out to be a bad throttle position sensor. Put a new one, check engine light went away and engine runs great. This is on a 1991 one..don't knownif you have that or not

Gotcha those are good points. I do like it pretty cold. But ill let.it be for now. I did add a 10inch auxiliary fan in front of the condenser in order to help the AC work better specially in those really hot days. I only had the mechanical setup, which has a new clutch so it's working good. I get plenty of air moved. So if I wanted to adjust the expansion valve screw, what would be your advice?

I agree on the four door belts being 1ft too long..ran into that here too. Time to chease a two door belt then. Thanks

For those wondering. This is how the bearings came out of the car. Glad I replaced them. https://www.dropbox.com/s/zmoe4ysuk4mmj3f/IMG_20160828_154738765_HDR.jpg?dl=0

These inside vent temp is for an ambient of 100f.

Gotcha. I didn't even know you could touch that screw. Well my biggest question is how low will the vent temps be? The lowest o get is 50. Most other cars/forums talk about 40f even 35f. What has been your experience on a converted r12 to r134? I ended up leaving it as it for now, because I need to move on to getting the other work done on the truck, but may get back to hooking up the gauges and going over these things later on the week. It will surely help to go into it with a better idea on what to look for.

Gotcha. I was under the impression that you had to add extra oil to account for dry lines and new condenser and drier. What should my pressures be for the low and high at idle? Ambient is around 90f in the garage....

Gotcha. Was just curious. Well I get about 45 on my other car, but it's a newer car that has r134 from factory. I agree. It hink that's a good temp. Now quick question. The compressor came with oil premeasured. But I had dry clean lines a new condenser and new drier, should I ad more oil to account for those too? Just afraid that I may not have enought in there since all the lines where clean and dry and also a new drier.

Most of them where giving me around 0.002 for what I recall. Essentially right on spot for oil clearance on what I could find on the manuals. The first main bearing was a little on the tight side, but I am just gonna let it break in lol.

Guys, Quick question. I just put a refurbished compressor, new condenser, drier and expansion valve. Put new orings everywhere did the vaccuum andnit held just fine. Added about 90% of r134 from the r12 recommended charge. The r12 calls for 2.38 lbs. So I added about 2 lbs. It's working, but I only get 55f on the cabin vents at idle. The pressures are: Low 35 High 300. Ambient was around 90. Can anyone tell me if this is way wrong? Based on the pressures and typical r134 chart, it's not right. But if I add more gas, I can hear the compressor making a different noise and the engine almost stalls when revving then letting it idle, seems to be too much load. I then removed some.gas and there is not compressor noise, and when revving and coming back to idle it's fine, but I only get 55f on the interior. What is your experience with r134? What pressures should I be seeing? Thanks everyone. Vh

Nope,just didn't touch that last one. The lower main bearings had a little bit of damage at near cylinder 1. The one right next to cyl 4 seemed OK, so I left the last one alone since I didn't want to risk it. I put the sema bearings size to those I took off. So far is running smooth, quiet and way better oil pressures than ever. :-)

I ran into this on mine. The xj belts are slightly longer than the mj ones. So you'll have slap when you go to take it off and it tries to retract. Has anyone out been able to find a way to get another seatbelt for the mj? My driver's ones belt is all worn down, I would like anew one, but last I checked, I couldn't buy new mj belts, anyone?

Doubt you can do it without pulling the dash out but they are easy to pull out, just take the screws, disconnect some plugs and off you go. Way easier to have it out of the way.

Hey everyone, just to report back that I was able to replace the main bearings and connecting rod bearings in the car, dropped a new oil pump while at it and now the engine sounds great and runs great. Finishing the AC retrofit to r134 then off to the road it goes. It's been quite a trip this process for sure.

Thanks everyone. I was able to push the top main bearings out with the crank in place. Just the last one I am a little hesitant about, as I don't want to mess the rear main seal. I already ordered a new set of bearings, so once it's in I'll see what I can do. Worse case, I'll have to slide the tranny out, but I really don't want to :-(

Quick question, If we leave one of the front calipers open while we do the rear in order o bleed the line of the proportioning valve, following this special procedure, arent we introducing air into the front brake lines? Is this procedure above correct for those of use that have a working load sensing valve at the rear of the truck?. I just ask this because using the pedal to pump the fluid will surely suck air into the open front caliper in between pumps. Or would you say to leave the front caliper open, then bleed the rears using a vaccuum pump/?

Yes, they all have rubbing damage, I first saw glitter in the oil which prompted me to drop the pan and check. I removed the bearing caps and could see the scored bearings. They are all 0.02 for the main and 0.01 for the connecting rods. I plan on using plastigauge after putting the new bearings to check the clearance. But because I can't measure the diameter, I am just gonna have to measure the clearance with the plastigauge then pick another bearing if need be. Does anyone know a good way to deal with the least main cap and the rear main seal? I would like to do that bearing, but if I drop the cap off, I could upset the rear main seal and require to drop the trans to put a new one :-(