azscott

Well mine did almost the same thing and it was the master cylinder. yes it still had fluid in it. The pedal was limp amost completely to the floor...not all the way but 90%. Thought I lost the slave too but was told to change the master first and that was it. Not saying yours is a master but...mine was....and it did not leak fluid...all the fluid was still in the reservoir. Costs what...40.00 or so for a new master cylinder.... scott

Not that you may care...but you can by a direct fit formed new carpet for $125.00. I did when I pulled mine out...I was going to clean it and then decided for all the work to get it out I would replace it. Now is also a good time to think about adding noise and heat shielding if you care. I did it to my MJ and what a world of difference. Not saying you should as money may be an issue but....that jute pad they use is almost wortlhless for heat and noise. Even just a foil backed pad will cut the heat. On my MJ the heat off of the tranny tunnel was hot on my right leg and annoying. I used a noise and heat barrier on the tunnel and killed that for good. Better now that...wish I shoulda-coulda-woulda. Sreiously you guys have no idea how good it is until you put a quality noise barrier and heat foil pad down and chuck the worthless jute OEM pad. scott

It was a bad master cylinder. Not too bad of a job..a little of a pain. $50.00 for a new one from Checker. scott

Checked the reservoir...it was just below the min. No fluid leaking at the firewall..it is dry and no indications it ever leaked in the past. I will check the tranny tomorrow. I did fill it up and seem like i got some pedal back. I forgot about the reservoir when i posted. Hopefully nothing major...a master cylinder I can replace no biggy...a save...think not. I have a Jeep service manual so i will see how to bleed the system. scott

I ask as my 89 MJ ( 4.0, BA-10) has developed a loosey goosey clutch pedal. It just kinda flops around from fully let out to about half way depressed...then after that it has the normal resistance you would expect from a cluthc pedal. Seems the throw has been cut in half. When I say it is loosey goosey..it just flops areound with no back pressure or resistance. What say you? scott

Yep...the IAC. When you shut the engine off it pre-positions the IAC for a igher idle on the next startup...read that in the jeep manual...generally around the 3K range. As soon as it starts up the IAC should move back into the low idle position...which I think is extended...I have watched it before with the intake off. Mine was doing exactly what yours is..intermittent stuck at 3K idle....was a sticky IAC. scott

O.K..I will buy that

This is on my 89 MJ BA10 4.0. The PO said the reverse lights stayed on constant so he disconnected them...I think there was a sensor on the top of the tranny. He then wired in a set of small halogens on a switch for backing up. Fine for now but I am moving back to New Hamshire shortly and would like to take my Arizona Comanche with me. NH has safety inspections and everything has to work....unlike here where who gives a hoot if it has no doors..tailights...a hood..as long as it passess emissions test...your O>K. Back eas is opposite...who cares if it pollutes but it has to be safe. Anyway, anyone know of the part number for that reverse sensor on top of the BA10 tranny...I was unable to locate it. scott

Glad it worked...for both you and me. Now anyone else who has bad forward channel seals knows exactly what to use....and like I said...ain't it a PERFECT fit. Looks better than original. Scott

Mine did too ( just sat on there)...but mine did not leak...you may have a worn bushing...I think there is a plastic or fiber bushing under the shifter...can't remember. You should not leak fluid out the top at that point simply due to the rubber seal not being tight ....I wouldn't think. I did consider using two tie wraps to cinch it down. My Pathfinder is like that...the dust boot was held on tightly with a big darn ti wrap. You could join two smaller ones together maybe and cinch it around the outer edge? scott

I think this will fit...although I think you may have to take the shifter out...not sure. I know it says for AX-15 but...I read somewhere where they said it would fit. Sure looks like the one I have...who knows..maybe someone put this one on my Puegot? http://www.acmejeepparts.com/products/52109_02.htm and for more boots. try here..which is where I found the one for my floor finally. Not the original one but is from a jeep and finally kept that nasty gear oil smell and heat out. http://www.thefind.com/instruments/info ... ssion-boot

I assume you are talking about a rubber dust boot? I have one on my Puegot tranny...I thought I saw one on one of my parts website will see if I can find it. I assume you are NOT talking about the one that screws to the tunnel to seal out air from coming through the floor but rather the one that slips over the shifter and sits down on the tranny. scott

Now I agree on the window wipes...no suitable sub for those and I also ponied up for them. Still have to install them...again when i take the door panels off to replace the speakers.....dang panels..on/off..on/off...

Yep one strip....it is like 8 feet or more I think. I still have 5 feet left over and there can't be 20" left in the door...so yep plenty. May be a bit fun trying to get it down the side of the window inside the door which is why I was told to remove the window first...which is why I said...screw dat....and only replaced the upper half....for now. I just could not take that constant rattle of the window when it was not rolled up and when it was rolled up the wind noise was rather loud also...as the entires OEM strip was gone. scott

I had asked several times if anyone had found a suitable sub for the window channel sealing strip...this is the vertical strp that runs betwen the front of the window and the frame that seperates that little wing window. Team Cherokee sell the OEM for 99 bucks a piece so for two windows it is 200. After trying several different types of rubber window channels the one I found that works is style 24 from precision. I had to get calipers and measure the three critical dimesnions to get on ethat fit perfect. It is felt lined and works absolutely perfect. Takes like 2 minutes to install. Now i did not run it all the way down inside the door. i chipped out what was dry rotted down to just below the level of the door with the window rolled down and left what was below that level there as it was not dry rotted and well..I have no desire to take my door panels off yet again to get inside and do what is below the level of the window rolled down. When i do remove the panels I will pull out the rest of the OEM seal and finsih it off. One piece is all you need for two full windows and costs 17 bucks....yippee. Here is the link to JCWhitney...it is style 24. Remember this does not work for the rest of the win dow as that channel is a bit larger and you can get the OEM stuff from mopar parts for 33 bucks anyway. http://www.jcwhitney.com/ALL-RUBBER_WIN ... 009944;0;0 here is a pic...I hope.. Image Not Found

I used Grizzly Grip on my body. Thoght about it for my interior but decided to order a vacuum formed textured nylon liner instead. The bedliners are nice but messy for one. Also you will loose any sound deadining by not using a sound deadener like the jute. I don't know about everyone else but my tunnel gets hot and uncomfortable on my right leg. I decided to use a sound damplifier on the entire floor....it is a foil backed 3mil elastomer rubber sheets that stick on to the metal.....they deaden road noise and also reflect heat. Then over the top of that i layed a layer of heat reflecting insulation available at most upholstery stores. Then layed the vinyl floor over that. It dropped the road noise considerably, killed the heat off my tunner and I love the new textured vinyl floor. It was not too bad of a job...biggest bugger is getting the seat out along with the seatbelts...love them star fasteners. I am very pleased with how it worked out and am glad I did not line the floor with bedliner. Of course if yours is a pure offroad vehicle them maybe you would not care but for daily driving you will have alot of road noise without some sort of insulating/noise barrier. Total cost for me was $140.00 for the new vinyl formed flooring, $170.00 for the Sound Damplifier and probably $30.00 for the heat reflecting floor insulation. You could forgo the Damplifier and use 2 layers of the double foil backed heat insulation as it is only 1/2 thick...or even just one layer...but it does make a difference. scott

It goes to your football( vac reservoir)...any parts store will have that size line in bulk. Be sure that the rest of the line is there that comes out of the football and into your HVAC and so on. I had mega leaks on the line you are missing and also on the output side going into the firewall. I would suspect that your HVAC would not have worked correctly...you should only have defrost irragrdless of what setting was on your dash control...ie...floor, dash vents etc...it should have only blown air out the defrost as vacuum controls that flapper valve and that vac comes off of what would have been supplied off of that missing line. scott

Depends on which ones you are talking about...for the window there are 3 diiferent weather/air strips. The wipes which obviously are at the bottom of the window frame and wipe the window as it rolls down...a complete set is close to a $100.00 from teamCherokee. Then there is the rubber strip that for some reason only goes along the rear side rail and along the top edge of the window frame...they run about $33.00 a set OEM from Mopar Parts. The bigger bummer is the semi rigid one that is in the front edge or frame of the window...that bugger is rare and runs 99 a piece from team Cherokee. I 'thought" I ordered the front channel from Mopar but they had it listed wrong ( or I am a dumbass..take your pick) and got the flexible rubber felt lined piece for the rear vertical channel/top rail. Which I did not need so now I have a complete set of those for both doors. I have decided to use a similar approach for the forward vertical channel and forgo the OEM rigid one as it is stupid expensive. I have found on JCW a flexible rubber felt lined strip that measures the same as the forward channel and am ordering that. Anything to stop the rattle and wind blowing in. Now you can't use the same piece that runs along the rest of the window as that channel is wider than the forward one and won't fit...I know..I triued to cram the one I just got from Mopar in there...no luck....although I am not even sure they sent the correct piece anyway. I gave up on Junk yards as stuff rots here in AZ sun in a few years so hoping to find a set is pointless. As for the door weatherstrip...most decent auto parts stores carry a few types that will work fine....it is just the window that seems to be a b*@$£. scott

..well mine is a Pukegoat so we will see...I did not order the one pictured above but another one from the same catalog as it looked to be a better fit.

Does anyone know the proper term or..where to get the floor seal for a 5 speed transmission. This is NOT the rubber boot that fits ON the center console but rather the inner one that actually screws to the floor/center hump and keeps the floor sealed. Mine is dry rotted and I get a nasty tranny fluid odor when I open the windows as the seal is shot and air is coming up from the hole in the floor for the shifter. scott

...they are OEM. The wipes were from Team Cherokee and the forward channels came from Moparparts...had to wait 3 weeks for them. I could not determine a suitable sub to buy verses OEM...and non ever offered an alternative...so I went OEM...ouch....well like 35 bucks a channel. scott

Has anyone replaced the window wiper rubbers....and more so the forward window channel. The channel is the felt insert that sits in the rail that seprates the window from the smaller fixed wing window. I have not figured out how to get the new one in...getting the old one is easy..it is so rotted it is like a graham cracker. For the price of the window channels I can ill afford to screw the pooch installing on. The windo wipes look fairly simply but figured I would ask on thos too. scott

...shoulda just removed that stupid HCV. After I blew out the core....I put it all back together....everything was fine. So I grabbed my wife and we went for a drive. I had just finished replacing the headliner and ripped the interior out....chucked the nasty rug and jewt insulation...liined the whole interior with Damplifier and installed a double foil backed Heat Wave Pro insulation on the floors.....then put in a brandy new textured vinyl floor. Ahhh..smelled like a new truck..looked almost new ( well accpet for the sun rotted dash but I will get there)... Then...sniff..hmm...smells like coolant burning on my engine....uhhhh....engine temp at 220....poop...1/3 mile from home. Limped on in...with steam pouring out. Dang HCV literally split in half and dumped most of my coolant.......MAN....I hate filling and bleeding this damn thing :headpop: Well no serious damage done...now off to rig up a T to eliminate the cracked HCV... 8) By the way...I forgot I had the Comanche service manual from jeep...I looked up the Heat valave and yep...it is worthless. The only time it is closed is either in vent or with the system off...otherwise it is open. Which makes me wonder if it has a similar effect on the AC as it does in the Ford Diesels....since it is open even with full AC..I wonder if it affects the temp of the AC. I know there is a bypass mod for the Super Duties to close the valve during max AC as it lowers the output air temp by about 20 degrees? scott

...well that wasn't it....the HCV is open UNLESS there is vacuum applied and mine was wide open. Seems the heater core was plugged....had to blow it out with the hose and a pile a crud and rust came out. Purged out the water..filled her up with new fluid and now I have heat. Lucky for once...it was this easy. scott

...yah...gotta have AC down here or you will toast. I drove a few days this summer without it when we hit 116....ugghh. Anyway thanks for the response....I figured it could just be removed permanently anyway. scott