airspeed

I have had luck with Performance Radiator, looks like they have a shop in Vegas. http://performanceradiator.com/index.php

This was a fun low stress project for New Years Day. I will have to pull the dash bezel again and remount the plate that the knob attaches too, easy fix. I went through the firewall 2.0" above the gas pedal cable, perfect location for routing down to the front diff.

I will bet you have a u-joint problem, under normal driving conditions differentials tend to be a more gradual failure. I found a Dana 44 w/ limited-slip out of a MJ on craigslist a while back, that was a rare find. That works really nice in the snow and ice, I don't need 4x4 around town any more.

I did a search and found the thread. http://comancheclub.com/topic/31256-renix-cps-alert/page__hl__high+altitude+cps

I agree, change the plug wires. You can take a spray bottle of water and with the engine running spray the plug wires and see what happens.

In the Denver metro area quite a few. There are 5 or 6 on craigslist any day.

I put Lucas 75W-90 synthetic gear oil in mine, no additive. My Dana 44 w/ limited slip is smooth and quiet.

Wipe them down with paint thinner, don't flood them or let it stay on too long. They will look brand new!!

When you pull the front wheel you have a whole new perspective on room under there. I think the ramp would be in the way for this job, you need a jack stand.

Is it the Dana 44?, or it has been upgraded. I think the 1 ton came with Dana 44 w/limited slip, not sure. The older posi's can be a bit of a problem with the clutch packs in there, you get a poping sound when making a tight turn...

My 2.5l is home right now, can't see the access. My sons 4.0 had the same problem. We jacked up the vehicle and pulled the left front tire. Working from the wheel well using a small battery powered drill I drilled the freeze plug off center. I then put a sheet metal screw in the hole and used a small pry bar to remove the plug, then I put a block heater in the hole and tightened it up. It's been that way for ~80k. The key is to get the vehicle up high on jack stands, you will have quite a bit of access to the side of the motor.

12.75 W 11.00 H

The brake backing plate almost filled the gap, good thing I talk to you guys before I go back to the shop and make a fool out of myself. There was a slight compression on the seal when I installed the bearing retainer plate, seems just fine. It is hard to believe that the thin retainer plate pushing against a rubber seal hold the axle in the differential. I don't understand all the physics there but I would think there would be some heavy side loads on the axle under certain conditions.

I had new bearings and seals pressed on to my axles but they don't seem to fit properly. The depth of the counter bore in my axle housing is .970, the thickness of the new bearing and seal is 1.115. Those retaining plates will not pull up tight?

Now that you mentioned it the rear adjustment has a rotation arrow with the letter L and the front shows a rotation with the letter U. I still don't understand the center ring? The caliber is 30-06.

Cleaning out the folks house I ended up with the Winchester Mod70. Beautiful old gun that has only been shot about a dozen times in it's life. My dad bought this gun around ~1949-50. The most unusaual thing are the Stith mounts with 3 rings. I can't find any information on these rings, they appear to have some type of elevation adjustment for the scope. The center ring applies some type of prelaod to the barrel of the scope, you can see an adjustable thumb wheel that applies pressure to the spring tab. The scope is a Weaver 2.5x. See photo. Image Not Found

If you trace the probelm to the idle speed control motor (ISC), that may be hard to find. The 83 Buick Lesabre 3.8 uses the same part and other GM's as well, sometimes it is called idle speed actuator (ISA). They actually sell a repair kit if you are up to putting the gear motor on the bench and taking it apart. Mount it in the vise and carefully remove the top. It is ingenious how they use the gears and sliding connetors to drive the fast idle plunger.

I bet they used those external torx bolts for a reason, more room. They are the equilavent to a 10mm socket in size.

I changed my 88 2.5l in a couple of mimutes. As i remember I had a straight shot with a long extension and a socket, extenal torx. I don't remeber the exhaust being in the way, I will have to go out and look again.

He has some good photos of the pinion seal and axle seals, no leaks. It also has a "limited slip" tag. The spring perches look right, I will measure to be sure.

I found a Dana 44 on craigslist with 3.54 gears for $400, not sure if this is a good deal. My 88 2.5 w/4spd Dana 35 I thought had 3.55 gears? Were there different gears? I have my axle seals leaking and a bit of a whine coming from my rear end, time for an upgrade.

My stock 88 SWB 4x4, 2.5l, 4spd, no AC tips the scales at 3280 lbs

In this photo you can see the double speed relay mounted on the inner fender. The wiring comes straight off the battery, my positive battery cable had a pigtail ready for connection, same with the ground. You can see the temp sensor comes around and goes into the center top of the radiator fins. The pulley hub is just mounted with bolts. Note the 50A faston connectors for the fan motor.

The radiator mounts at the top with 3/4" dia rubber bushings. I cut small sheetmetal patches and riveted in place, then cut 3/4" holes forward about 3/4", see photo. I don't have a photo of the other side but I had to trim a 14" verticle sheetmetal strip, then mount a patch on the top with a new mounting hole. The radiator hangs from the top mounts, the bottom is just a locator tab, drill a new hole.

I put the Taurus 95-96 3.8 fan on my 2.5. It really works nice but was a bit of a challange to install. I ordered the relay and temp controls fron DCControl.com, ~ $70. A real nice two speed relay setup with adjustable temp control. My small alternator works fine with this setup. The challange was the radiator had to be moved forward about 3/4" to give clearance for the motor and the pully. Some cutting, drilling and riveting. On a 105 degree day in heavy stop and go traffic I will see the temp rise maybe 10 degrees above normal.